03-14-2020, 01:00 AM
OK I had to re-read all your posts, and for sure it lacks symptoms. and too much Info scares you but the car has computer and that sure is scary to most.
so again, it is NOT THE EGR failing causing all your driving symptoms. (yes EGR system is bad so what?)
And I am the what we call the GUY in the middle, that is never good. so let me make a list, we alll ready know the car had bad fuel, and water in the fuel, double bad THAT.
EGR main is new, (seen rear of intake runner #4)
the car has a computer, called a ECU (or PCM<) the electronic fuel injection system MPI, means 4 injectors)
The Engine is 16valves, G16B not the J18 engine with 2 cams (yours has 1 cam and top of engine yells, 16valves,loud. (emboss cast in the aluminum top)
As such the engine runs in many PCM modes, cold , hot, idling , cruising , accelerating and wot, wide open throttle.(pedal to the metal)
Symptoms all.
when does the engine misfire, bog or hesitate. in all those modes above ,tell the good and bad, tell what mode works and which do not..
I can not drive your car so tell the GOOD the bad and the Ugly, tell all things good and bad, , eg. it does idle hot 800 RPM smoothly?)
now some hard direct questions, (part of above for sure)
when you cruise the car steady right foot does then engine have full power just say going ~45mph. steady (y/n)
does the car accelerate up say a hill ok, (if no hills there say so) and for sure if you use magic WOT mode, does the car have full power, even AFTER A SHORT HESITATION
if the WOT fails that is not a bad TPS. ok/ ?
if full power (engine) resumes with WOT, I call that CATCH up. (that is a good sign) and if it does not CATCH UP the MAF can be bad, or fuel pressure low or injectors are clogged.
can you forget the EGR please, even defeat it and see car still fails , now ,proving you EGR IS NOT THE PRIME CAUSE.
The EGR we fix last, and can be very expensive this, huge, if all paths of exhaust ports are packed full of carbon, huge labor, to fix that, and frankly is huge distraction to your real failure.
I can not tell you mech what to do.. but it seems they are hopeless to me, not able to diagnose any MPI car is that, all cars now are MPI 99% (or direct injection)
they should hide their heads in shame. but they said the did not see the problem driving, so.... there is that.
tactic #1 . just drive it until it gets worse, and for sure buy a bottle of Chevron TECHron, fuel injector cleaner and dump it in the tank.
I do not like additives,but this can work, just this one thing,
BTW#2. ,my 91,96 and 97 car run perfectly EGR defeated, CEL on , and EGR errors endless, ran perfectly. so that is why EGR is last, not first (first is expensive to fix)
your EGR mains is NEW, so is not Bad, and if defeated CAN NOT LEAK and make engine misfire. (CAN NOT) for sure you blocking its vacuum hose now .
so again, it is NOT THE EGR failing causing all your driving symptoms. (yes EGR system is bad so what?)
And I am the what we call the GUY in the middle, that is never good. so let me make a list, we alll ready know the car had bad fuel, and water in the fuel, double bad THAT.
EGR main is new, (seen rear of intake runner #4)
the car has a computer, called a ECU (or PCM<) the electronic fuel injection system MPI, means 4 injectors)
The Engine is 16valves, G16B not the J18 engine with 2 cams (yours has 1 cam and top of engine yells, 16valves,loud. (emboss cast in the aluminum top)
As such the engine runs in many PCM modes, cold , hot, idling , cruising , accelerating and wot, wide open throttle.(pedal to the metal)
Symptoms all.
when does the engine misfire, bog or hesitate. in all those modes above ,tell the good and bad, tell what mode works and which do not..
I can not drive your car so tell the GOOD the bad and the Ugly, tell all things good and bad, , eg. it does idle hot 800 RPM smoothly?)
now some hard direct questions, (part of above for sure)
when you cruise the car steady right foot does then engine have full power just say going ~45mph. steady (y/n)
does the car accelerate up say a hill ok, (if no hills there say so) and for sure if you use magic WOT mode, does the car have full power, even AFTER A SHORT HESITATION
if the WOT fails that is not a bad TPS. ok/ ?
if full power (engine) resumes with WOT, I call that CATCH up. (that is a good sign) and if it does not CATCH UP the MAF can be bad, or fuel pressure low or injectors are clogged.
can you forget the EGR please, even defeat it and see car still fails , now ,proving you EGR IS NOT THE PRIME CAUSE.
The EGR we fix last, and can be very expensive this, huge, if all paths of exhaust ports are packed full of carbon, huge labor, to fix that, and frankly is huge distraction to your real failure.
I can not tell you mech what to do.. but it seems they are hopeless to me, not able to diagnose any MPI car is that, all cars now are MPI 99% (or direct injection)
they should hide their heads in shame. but they said the did not see the problem driving, so.... there is that.
tactic #1 . just drive it until it gets worse, and for sure buy a bottle of Chevron TECHron, fuel injector cleaner and dump it in the tank.
I do not like additives,but this can work, just this one thing,
BTW#2. ,my 91,96 and 97 car run perfectly EGR defeated, CEL on , and EGR errors endless, ran perfectly. so that is why EGR is last, not first (first is expensive to fix)
your EGR mains is NEW, so is not Bad, and if defeated CAN NOT LEAK and make engine misfire. (CAN NOT) for sure you blocking its vacuum hose now .
http://www.fixkick.com