Idle slows and stops after revving

[CliveElliott]

the 8v EGR
is in easy plain site below throttle body
just push the diaphragm metal ring in buy hand, that ring there , just push it and the valve opens (key off) and it then retracts under internal spring pressure.

Does the engine need to be up to operating temperature when performing this test? We did it while cold (60oF).
Do you mean the ring on the outside of the diaphragm? yes, It doesn't budge. When we push the rubber diaphragm it moves about 1/16". do not push rubber, push only the ring, (center part) there is a skeltonized frame there.
But none of the metal parts around it move at all. Guess it needs cleaning!? If so, we'll follow the directions on your website. We've ordered a new gasket for it.
this EGR can stick hot or cold, open and if it does, idle drops (hot) below 800rpm.,even as low a 400. or stalls.

all suz, are noted for sticking EGR, its there THING.
The EGR flexs about 1/4" or 5mm .
i push it like 5 time to make sure it moves, and dose not hang. a new one makes thud sound as it seats closed.

the non responsive throttle will be, bogging lack of fuel issue or misfire, the former is a smooth lack of power the latter is misfire loss of power, and is violent, heard, felt and see engine shake. It's just slow in responding the to gas pedal, and sometimes smoothly slows down when I haven't moved the gas pedal at all. Nothing violent. Time to check fuel filter? sure, if the filter is clogged, it may only idle and not be drivable.
this fact above is key to diagnosis
as is pulling a spark plug and see if its white or black. or oil soaked. ready spark plugs sill works on today's gas engines.

12 codes means ECU is happy. good.

yes flooding will clear just like you said. (for sure the least try to fire statement) all accurate
not drivable is it. No. We can back it out the driveway and then it stalls and we have to wait for it to cool before we can restart it and drive it back into the driveway. ,ok got you, not enough power to drive car.



power lacks wide open throttle, parked and driven. right, if can be driven. Not sure what this sentence means
sorry, was hoping you can gun the throttle parked, in and get full throttle rpms... 3500 or more. just for a second, hot.
I revved it to 4,000 rpm no problem; pedal still wasn't at the floor. (Didn't want to go above that - am afraid it's hard on the engine.)



gas dont go bad in 12months, most dont....
does engine reach 180f coolant temp, and hold there? too hot to hold hand on upper rad hose? this is normal, less is bad. 150f very bad. Will check this. I understand from your website that the EGR doesn't work if engine is not hot enough.
nor does the IAC close ,nor does ECU go to hot engine fuel mix. if coolant does not get hot, .
Upper rad hose is still just pleasantly warm after 10 minutes including revving. (Temperature gauge is past the center so I assume it's about as hot as it's going to get.) What makes it run at too low a temperature; and how can we make it run hotter? Will cleaning the EGR valve do that?

if the DIZZy Misfires, see the real dizzy page here, and the VR gap http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/89-timing.html
I don't think it's misfiring. Just occasionally missing when I add throttle (once or twice a minute) - perhaps a bit of water in the gas? Cap and rotor are new and good quality.

its noted for wild failures and heat soak failures. the VR and the ignition inside, can go bad, or worse , intermittent or wild results.

cheers to you from texas
Thanks again for your very valuable help. It's an honor to be talking to the author of your amazing website.

I spent half and hour writing a reply, then saved it as a draft, and now I can't find my draft.

Sure enough, the ring on the inboard side of the diaphragm snaps in an out, but only about 1/16". So I guess it needs cleaning.

my honor, ! to help you.