05-09-2018, 11:07 PM
as you can see the VSV transistor is Q111.
the ECU turns on that transistor off idle, and the output of the transistors Collector energizes the VSV coil,
The VSV is vacuum valve solenoid, it has coil bobbin inside just like a relay does.
this coil logic on most Suzuki's works backwards. (to most folks)
with the key in hand not in car, the valve is open. (oddly and makes smoke testing for leaks confusing? see?)
when you key on the valve closes, (vacuum is blocked to EGR)
then you start engine, valve is still closed. (closed means vacuum dead to mod) closed means energized, coil in VSV.
You step on gas pedal and VSV valve opens, and vacuum modulation magic happens, (we will not talk that now)
at no time does the ECU attempt to modulate the VSV ever, the MOD valve and ported vacuum in the TB does ALL THAT. not the VSV.
ever.
my point above is watch out for VSV that work backwards, they do on suzuki's (some are open , key off so just be aware of this)
once you turn the key on;the valve is 100% closed . and never chatters, Q111 does not chatter ever, (good cars well, trackers not molested etc. )
THE CAPS BLUES: (like the song always in my mind... lol)
see that C103, almost ever one I have ever seen are BAD. (of Day 1 original I MEAN, 24 years old NOW)
did you know that?
some just go dry inside, with no signs outside of that fact.. Ghost failed.
if the side is marked, Rubicon, it's doom city,, all fail, (i can say that because all other brands ive seen are good, even this old. so Rubi , was trash caps then)
failed if used for 10 to 20 years, everyday , car parked in hot sun. (180f cab temps are common)
the only one I have not seen bad that year made, is ECU new in a box on a shelf parked..
I always remove it , and put in Nichicons, per my pages. I get them from mouser.com I buy the HIGH TEMP versions, 105C and this brand I LIKE. (top brands matter) here.
If lucky one can find Low ESR cap but not always can I find them.
on any sidekick B16
we set the front crank shaft 17mm head bolt to 94ft/lbs day one. owned (no wrecked crank snout is the reward)
then replace C103, next. (the corner cap I call it)
for sure those 2 steps, allow the car to have a future;. just 2 steps. and sure the other red DOT cap there fails to, just less often.
many times is see the cap is already changed out, (different brand) and is ok. I use a ESR meter to test them , but new is always better.
after metering vast numbers of caps in a life time we learn who made bad caps and who did not.... Non of my old sound gear with NEC caps failed. ever,
that cap is 24 years old today, 4 years past design life, in my opinion, 14 years past due to bad vendor.... maker of cap.
Mouser changes cap links so here is a revised page. links check it out.
I use this cap from Mouser, dont let the price scare you, LOL
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nic...Ss4w%3d%3d
hint1,
if the grounds are bad, many things fail even this cap above is near useless , lacking good solid grounding to all ECU ground pins. per the schematics, full.
the ECU turns on that transistor off idle, and the output of the transistors Collector energizes the VSV coil,
The VSV is vacuum valve solenoid, it has coil bobbin inside just like a relay does.
this coil logic on most Suzuki's works backwards. (to most folks)
with the key in hand not in car, the valve is open. (oddly and makes smoke testing for leaks confusing? see?)
when you key on the valve closes, (vacuum is blocked to EGR)
then you start engine, valve is still closed. (closed means vacuum dead to mod) closed means energized, coil in VSV.
You step on gas pedal and VSV valve opens, and vacuum modulation magic happens, (we will not talk that now)
at no time does the ECU attempt to modulate the VSV ever, the MOD valve and ported vacuum in the TB does ALL THAT. not the VSV.
ever.
my point above is watch out for VSV that work backwards, they do on suzuki's (some are open , key off so just be aware of this)
once you turn the key on;the valve is 100% closed . and never chatters, Q111 does not chatter ever, (good cars well, trackers not molested etc. )
THE CAPS BLUES: (like the song always in my mind... lol)
see that C103, almost ever one I have ever seen are BAD. (of Day 1 original I MEAN, 24 years old NOW)
did you know that?
some just go dry inside, with no signs outside of that fact.. Ghost failed.
if the side is marked, Rubicon, it's doom city,, all fail, (i can say that because all other brands ive seen are good, even this old. so Rubi , was trash caps then)
failed if used for 10 to 20 years, everyday , car parked in hot sun. (180f cab temps are common)
the only one I have not seen bad that year made, is ECU new in a box on a shelf parked..
I always remove it , and put in Nichicons, per my pages. I get them from mouser.com I buy the HIGH TEMP versions, 105C and this brand I LIKE. (top brands matter) here.
If lucky one can find Low ESR cap but not always can I find them.
on any sidekick B16
we set the front crank shaft 17mm head bolt to 94ft/lbs day one. owned (no wrecked crank snout is the reward)
then replace C103, next. (the corner cap I call it)
for sure those 2 steps, allow the car to have a future;. just 2 steps. and sure the other red DOT cap there fails to, just less often.
many times is see the cap is already changed out, (different brand) and is ok. I use a ESR meter to test them , but new is always better.
after metering vast numbers of caps in a life time we learn who made bad caps and who did not.... Non of my old sound gear with NEC caps failed. ever,
that cap is 24 years old today, 4 years past design life, in my opinion, 14 years past due to bad vendor.... maker of cap.
Mouser changes cap links so here is a revised page. links check it out.
I use this cap from Mouser, dont let the price scare you, LOL
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nic...Ss4w%3d%3d
hint1,
if the grounds are bad, many things fail even this cap above is near useless , lacking good solid grounding to all ECU ground pins. per the schematics, full.
http://www.fixkick.com