I'll try to break this down, simply, becasue there seems to be a difference in how you and I communicate.
Fact 1: I guess I'll start with the basics. The car starts, runs, drives, and in all other ways currently operates normally.
Fact 2: The mark on the crank pulley is showing I'm at least 30 degrees advanced.
Fact 3: The distributor is maxed out on advancing the timing.
This morning: confirming an average of 185 psi compression on each cyl. when fully tested. Tucked into bed, mint on pillow eaten, soft sound of a distant thunderstorm out the window.
No blinking CEL, and the engine does not start backwards or theoretically the drive gears would move me in reverse... correct? See fact 1
CEL is on when starting the car, not blinking.
No exhaust smell/smoke suggesting running rich.
Back to the original question, but using you as a sounding board I'm thinking I'm going to have to go completely remove the crank cam and be absolutely positive it hasn't moved. Then the 30 degrees advance would be close to the appropriate timing for the pistons, but 30 degrees off for the valves. It should still run horribly, even if the key has spun on the nose, but it's not running horribly. This is all I can think to check and you're trying to "teach" me something at every opportunity instead of discuss potential causes.
Fact 1: I guess I'll start with the basics. The car starts, runs, drives, and in all other ways currently operates normally.
Fact 2: The mark on the crank pulley is showing I'm at least 30 degrees advanced.
Fact 3: The distributor is maxed out on advancing the timing.
This morning: confirming an average of 185 psi compression on each cyl. when fully tested. Tucked into bed, mint on pillow eaten, soft sound of a distant thunderstorm out the window.
No blinking CEL, and the engine does not start backwards or theoretically the drive gears would move me in reverse... correct? See fact 1
CEL is on when starting the car, not blinking.
No exhaust smell/smoke suggesting running rich.
Back to the original question, but using you as a sounding board I'm thinking I'm going to have to go completely remove the crank cam and be absolutely positive it hasn't moved. Then the 30 degrees advance would be close to the appropriate timing for the pistons, but 30 degrees off for the valves. It should still run horribly, even if the key has spun on the nose, but it's not running horribly. This is all I can think to check and you're trying to "teach" me something at every opportunity instead of discuss potential causes.