a host of issues

[OHIOX90]

Thank you and Happy New Years to you as well.

I am going to just go right back down the list.
My X90 does have an automatic transmission with the original ECU.

My gas mileage has dropped by half (around 10 miles a gallon). (limphome in effect, CEL glows running?) or real high fuel pressure, or leaking injectors.)

Yes the CEL glows running.

I noticed the the fuel pump is running all the time (not just a few seconds after the key is turned). that is ECU going nuts. it only runs 3 seconds, key on , only. (never heard any 96 doing this) no G16B.

Sorry, just so I am clear when the key is in the off position the fuel pump is not running. But when the key is on you can hear the fuel pump running. If I had the key turned on for 20 seconds the fuel pump will run the entire time. You can also hear it in the fuel pressure regulator. I did swap out the fuel pump relay with the main ECU relay (10 minutes ago) and the fuel pump still runs when key is on.

When I checked the spark plugs I noticed that the number 4 boot that goes down onto the spark plug has a hole in the side of it. (new wire set)_ this will set P0304 only.

I went and bought a brand new set of plug wires and they are now installed.

The brakes. Some times I have great pedal and other times it goes down so low that it will scare you. Master cylinder seems to be on way out. did engine rpm drop very low, as brakes acted funny, low means below 800RPM?
pedal effort or pedal distance down? did pumping the brakes , fix this fast.? that is gain a high hard pedal>?

I didn't notice and drop in RPMs when I applied the brake (but I will make sure to look for this next time). The pedal distance down, very close to the floor before the brakes started to stop. But you are correct pumping the brakes brought it back to "regular pedal" for a little bit.

I did check all of the grounds on your "critical grounds" page. No signs of corrosion and all are tight.



So if I am thinking correctly brakes, starter and parking switch (are a problem) but are not related to any of the engine issues.

I am going go start it up and check to make sure i have 13.3v to 15v at all time running, no 12v power loss to ECU or DIZZy
no corroded ECU fuses (there are 3 fuses).
Then I will drive it around the block to get to operating temp and check the compression on the #1 cylinder. If it is at 170 (WOT) or about no need to check the rest? Correct?
If good then I can check the spark timing ( I have a timing light and a beat up timing cover).

Should I clear the codes now? Or just leave them be until I figure more stuff out.

Again thank you for your help.