(12-30-2013, 05:09 AM)OHIOX90 Wrote: I have a 1996 Suzuki X90 (U.S.) with the 16 valve 1.6 liter engine. (what transmission? 3/4/5speed?_)
It is running horrible.
My gas mileage has dropped by half (around 10 miles a gallon). (limphome in effect, CEL glows running?) or real high fuel pressure, or leaking injectors.)
I noticed the the fuel pump is running all the time (not just a few seconds after the key is turned). that is ECU going nuts. it only runs 3 seconds, key on , only. (never heard any 96 doing this) no G16B.
When I checked the spark plugs I noticed that the number 4 boot that goes down onto the spark plug has a hole in the side of it. (new wire set)_ this will set P0304 only.
The brakes. Some times I have great pedal and other times it goes down so low that it will scare you. Master cylinder seems to be on way out. did engine rpm drop very low, as brakes acted funny, low means below 800RPM?
pedal effort or pedal distance down? did pumping the brakes , fix this fast.? that is gain a high hard pedal>?
When I drive it to work and I park I can hear the coolant in the overflow bottle bubbling. (over heating and is real)
I bought my first ever compression gauge and coder reader/scanner (MaxiScan MS509) to try and help me diagnose the problem. (a true investment, with pay back,....)
wow, a whole bunch.
I am still reading the instructions for the scanner part but the code reader gave me P-0125, P-0340, P-0300, P-1500, P-1715.
you're doing great.
I have no idea if any of these things are related? I know I have a lot to learn but and am trying to buy the correct tools as time and money permits.
Any help to point me in the right direction for a place to start would be appreciated.
Thank you
that pump stuck on is nasty symptoms...id replace the relay now, or swap it for the main relay. they are mounted on the right side of heater-A/C box.
125 engine overheated, might be, due to misfire and marginal radiator. at same time. mifires can dump extra heat to the coolant. easy.
the ECU dont lie about this the ECT sensor read way too hot..... and didnt fail the ECT test so i believe it.
300 is all cylinder random misfiring,,,, its real.
340 is CMP gone nuts, and will cause all P30x codes. 1 in 10 signals missing from CMP sets this. if CMP was dead spark ends.
340 in this case means its dropping out , or this hall sensor is not hitting on all 4 cylinder stars.
its real.
1500 starter stuck on, wow, that is rare, a bad starter or bad key switch sticking in spring loaded start position, if true the starter would explode. and make a huge noise before. This is just the KEY line, stuck high, if
1715 is tranny error. means park neutral switch failure PRNDL , means car is in park and car moves. impossible. but they detect it..
if car has a m/T transmission and a A/T ECU this will set.
or the PRNDL switch is bad, many are this old.
the fuel pump on, keyon, not started, that might be ECU in BACKUP mode, (horrid documention by SUZUKI but is real)
backup mode is 10x worse than limphome, it means the ECU is totally lost. the main processor cant compute.
id make sure i have 13.3v to 15v at all time running, no 12v power loss to ECU or DIZZy
no corroded ECU fuses (there are 3 fuses)
that 340 is critical as is overheating. i have no docs. telling me what the ECU does when overheating is detected. other than 125s, newer cars cut out cylinders to cool the engine, not this car, it might go to limphome, a wild guess. but that be wrong, as that make more heat.
340. dizzy connector loose. , dizzy bad. dizzy overheated? , or 12v dropping way low, or the ground strap to dizzy is loose.
see my bad grounds page here. for 96
you have an A/T ECU in a M/T car.
m/t car, with 71E2x or 71E3x ecu?
the overheating , can cause many odd ECU reactions.
but the ECU can go to limphome and it does throw extra heat to the water jackets and out tail pipe as the retarded timing cause fuel to burn too long
too long is more wasted heat, and radiator with a set of clogged tubes will cause overheating, just at limphome hits.
95;s are far worse in this regard. (OBD1 limphome is very big punishment)
if #1 cylinder compression is 170 or more WOT< and not at 80psi the timing belt did not slip.
you can check spark timing, more easy, if spot on, the belt did NOT Slip, a 5min test. strobe light in hand.
good luck to you and happy New year, CHEERS!
critical grounds.
http://www.fixkick.com/Good_Bad_Ugly/com...lures.html
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