let me be more clear
when the engine stalled, and tach when to zero , did the CEL glow, IT MUST! if not the ECU lost power, 12DC power, (or ground to it is same loss)
if the CEL works stalled, then
then lacking a scan tool this failure is hard to find like all 1995 and older, that have no overthe counter scan tools sold.
the scan tool in almost all cases the tool tells you why it stalled, unless the fuel pump dies.
the only way to fix this car is to diagnosis it only when it stalls. after all one can not fix a working engine, nor diagnose it.
the techron will not cause the right foot to go dead, at the stall, that is spark loss, not 4 injectors going dead,
i call this intermittant spark
if you had a spark plug with ground strap attached, in the glove box.
and then took that tool you make up, using real spark plug gapped correctly
to the engine, at the stall and cranked it , youd see spark dead.
if spark was not dead, it would start, or you'd need to use instant start spray and it would start (proving loss of fuel)
for sure its loss of spark or fuel.
the problem is the car fails only for 1 minute, that is the only problem. and scan tools excel here......
here is one more trick old schoolers used, before scan tools, heck even now
the magic if propane gas. (see section with The below is a professional tool, you can make one in 1minute flat "
http://www.fixkick.com/nostart.html
first find a test port. (vacuum or this)
we run hose to the IAT port, (on mine this sensor is fitted to a air cleaner grommet rubber it simply pull out)
i insert this device hose. to ther are the engine EVAP vacuum nipple.
to make one buy and propane torch, from say walmart, the remove the nozzle and add a hose there. any hose. 8foot long? that goes from the passenger set to engine bay.
http://www.fixkick.com/tools/Propane-tester1.jpg
now run the engine, until it stalls and yell over to the helper, open the valve. now.
if the engine recovered, then you lost fuel, if not spark lost.
all with a simple home made tool.
lacking scan tool this works.
keep in mind engine spark induction coils can be very intermittent as can bad CPK or CMP sensors.
here is way2, ive used on the horribly intermittent spark
1: removed engine bay hood.
2: took my pro grade timing light and connected it to #1 spark or 4 if more easy.
3: power to the tool clip ground and clip battery lug plus red.
4: started the engine,
5: taped the trigger on gun with duct tape, (must be duct tape, i lie)
6: the light strobe flashes brightly,
7: I tape the strobe light to the wiper or or some way so its pointed to the right of car,. and i can still see the lamp flash and for sure my passenger .
8: i then drive with it flashing away madly. then engine stalls and the lamp goes dead. bingo bad spark,. if not lost fuel pressure.
a scan tool shows, code p03xx in most cases when spark fails (for sure in pending mode) or you see RPM go to zero even though the engine rpm is fast, after all if the ECU has power
and the 2 sensors work (CKP/CMP) EVEN A STALLING ENGINE SHOWS RPM , IF NOT THE spark is GONE.
Finding this lacking a scan tool is not easy
we must first prove.
1: lost spark or lost fuel
2: then prove what caused it with no help at all from the mighty scan tool. (i call this working blind)
The ECU makes the spark, it takes the 2 sensors as input and then FIRES the ignitor to make the induction coil produce spark,
The ignitor signal (coil minus lug) to make sthe tachometer work on the 89-98 car, not sure on 99.
if the tach goes to zero on say a 98 car, (on the fly ) that means the coil lost all signals from the ignitor. (or power/ground) or the ECU lost power and a scan tool shows ECU NON COMM NOW.
keep in mind the ECU makes all spark and all spark advancements.
Power to ECU good. (means ground too)
The 2 sensors not dead.(on 98 and below, only CMP need work) to run.
The ECU fires the ignitor (it charges the COIL for DWELL time, then releases it and BAM inducted spark)
then repeats.
one other way to test.
engine stalls.
wont start
crank it wot, wide open throttle, starts now means it was flooded.
no start still.
use test fuel, 1st. (spray in the IAT port if easy to pull)
or find a vacuum nipple and spray there, pulled, spray for 1 second and put back and crank.
when the engine stalled, and tach when to zero , did the CEL glow, IT MUST! if not the ECU lost power, 12DC power, (or ground to it is same loss)
if the CEL works stalled, then
then lacking a scan tool this failure is hard to find like all 1995 and older, that have no overthe counter scan tools sold.
the scan tool in almost all cases the tool tells you why it stalled, unless the fuel pump dies.
the only way to fix this car is to diagnosis it only when it stalls. after all one can not fix a working engine, nor diagnose it.
the techron will not cause the right foot to go dead, at the stall, that is spark loss, not 4 injectors going dead,
i call this intermittant spark
if you had a spark plug with ground strap attached, in the glove box.
and then took that tool you make up, using real spark plug gapped correctly
to the engine, at the stall and cranked it , youd see spark dead.
if spark was not dead, it would start, or you'd need to use instant start spray and it would start (proving loss of fuel)
for sure its loss of spark or fuel.
the problem is the car fails only for 1 minute, that is the only problem. and scan tools excel here......
here is one more trick old schoolers used, before scan tools, heck even now
the magic if propane gas. (see section with The below is a professional tool, you can make one in 1minute flat "
http://www.fixkick.com/nostart.html
first find a test port. (vacuum or this)
we run hose to the IAT port, (on mine this sensor is fitted to a air cleaner grommet rubber it simply pull out)
i insert this device hose. to ther are the engine EVAP vacuum nipple.
to make one buy and propane torch, from say walmart, the remove the nozzle and add a hose there. any hose. 8foot long? that goes from the passenger set to engine bay.
http://www.fixkick.com/tools/Propane-tester1.jpg
now run the engine, until it stalls and yell over to the helper, open the valve. now.
if the engine recovered, then you lost fuel, if not spark lost.
all with a simple home made tool.
lacking scan tool this works.
keep in mind engine spark induction coils can be very intermittent as can bad CPK or CMP sensors.
here is way2, ive used on the horribly intermittent spark
1: removed engine bay hood.
2: took my pro grade timing light and connected it to #1 spark or 4 if more easy.
3: power to the tool clip ground and clip battery lug plus red.
4: started the engine,
5: taped the trigger on gun with duct tape, (must be duct tape, i lie)
6: the light strobe flashes brightly,
7: I tape the strobe light to the wiper or or some way so its pointed to the right of car,. and i can still see the lamp flash and for sure my passenger .
8: i then drive with it flashing away madly. then engine stalls and the lamp goes dead. bingo bad spark,. if not lost fuel pressure.
a scan tool shows, code p03xx in most cases when spark fails (for sure in pending mode) or you see RPM go to zero even though the engine rpm is fast, after all if the ECU has power
and the 2 sensors work (CKP/CMP) EVEN A STALLING ENGINE SHOWS RPM , IF NOT THE spark is GONE.
Finding this lacking a scan tool is not easy
we must first prove.
1: lost spark or lost fuel
2: then prove what caused it with no help at all from the mighty scan tool. (i call this working blind)
The ECU makes the spark, it takes the 2 sensors as input and then FIRES the ignitor to make the induction coil produce spark,
The ignitor signal (coil minus lug) to make sthe tachometer work on the 89-98 car, not sure on 99.
if the tach goes to zero on say a 98 car, (on the fly ) that means the coil lost all signals from the ignitor. (or power/ground) or the ECU lost power and a scan tool shows ECU NON COMM NOW.
keep in mind the ECU makes all spark and all spark advancements.
Power to ECU good. (means ground too)
The 2 sensors not dead.(on 98 and below, only CMP need work) to run.
The ECU fires the ignitor (it charges the COIL for DWELL time, then releases it and BAM inducted spark)
then repeats.
one other way to test.
engine stalls.
wont start
crank it wot, wide open throttle, starts now means it was flooded.
no start still.
use test fuel, 1st. (spray in the IAT port if easy to pull)
or find a vacuum nipple and spray there, pulled, spray for 1 second and put back and crank.
http://www.fixkick.com