02-07-2018, 09:08 PM
that wire only halts fuel. the brown, tachometer wires.
the suppressor never fails, sure falls off , lost but not fail.
did you buy a dead car, or it just happened one morning , dead? is there an odd story? leading up to failure?
if the tachometer works cranked over then its ok, show 100 rpm (tinydeflection) 4wd cars have tach, in most cases.
that tachomovent tells me the ECU if pulsing the coil primary of the coil.
ok spark is dead
do you know the classic old test for spark. (wires _+ spark plugs)
using test spark plug, (and a wire if needed)
for sure test spark at the coil on the fire wall first.
spark begins there,
if coil has spark but all 4 , or many spark plugs are dead, the distributor is timed wrong. gross or the cam belt slipped. but compression is super good. so, cam is ok. mostly
The distributor on this car makes all spark, (and coil) and all advance, both vacuum and centrifugal advance all in the Dizzy.
see why here,
here is the wiring to it.
if you had spark, you could run the engine on test fuel (spray) no fuel in gas tank even.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/89/89-90schem1.jpg
the VR sensor is the instigator of spark , like cam sensor, it creates the first moments of spark this VR sensor is then drives (runs) a tranistor ignitor near it.
This ignitor charges the coil primary then release it and spark happens NOW.
the first test for any car with not running for sure 89s is check the coil for spark. first.
then at the 4 cylinders. next .
watch scotty, pretend it has coil on fire wall and he checks that first. then the 4 spark plugs. (note the rubber meets the road test, with real test spark plug, a win)
the failure. (this test is 120 years old, back to 1900 year.)
https://youtu.be/064Ilsz8Fzg?t=106
then good.
https://youtu.be/064Ilsz8Fzg?t=138
also back firing from the throttle body air horn is a sign of
1: spark wires put on in wrong firing order. (or forgot to change the or plugs 1 by 1 and not all at once? now are scrambled wrong.)
2: someone played the distributor clamp bolt. (it turns and is wrong now , gross timing errors)
3: cam timed wrong.
4: burned valves in head.
but we work the coil first, always, it must have spark at the coil, if ok then check distributor timing from crank to cam to distributor (end to end)
the suppressor never fails, sure falls off , lost but not fail.
did you buy a dead car, or it just happened one morning , dead? is there an odd story? leading up to failure?
if the tachometer works cranked over then its ok, show 100 rpm (tinydeflection) 4wd cars have tach, in most cases.
that tachomovent tells me the ECU if pulsing the coil primary of the coil.
ok spark is dead
do you know the classic old test for spark. (wires _+ spark plugs)
using test spark plug, (and a wire if needed)
for sure test spark at the coil on the fire wall first.
spark begins there,
if coil has spark but all 4 , or many spark plugs are dead, the distributor is timed wrong. gross or the cam belt slipped. but compression is super good. so, cam is ok. mostly
The distributor on this car makes all spark, (and coil) and all advance, both vacuum and centrifugal advance all in the Dizzy.
see why here,
here is the wiring to it.
if you had spark, you could run the engine on test fuel (spray) no fuel in gas tank even.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/89/89-90schem1.jpg
the VR sensor is the instigator of spark , like cam sensor, it creates the first moments of spark this VR sensor is then drives (runs) a tranistor ignitor near it.
This ignitor charges the coil primary then release it and spark happens NOW.
the first test for any car with not running for sure 89s is check the coil for spark. first.
then at the 4 cylinders. next .
watch scotty, pretend it has coil on fire wall and he checks that first. then the 4 spark plugs. (note the rubber meets the road test, with real test spark plug, a win)
the failure. (this test is 120 years old, back to 1900 year.)
https://youtu.be/064Ilsz8Fzg?t=106
then good.
https://youtu.be/064Ilsz8Fzg?t=138
also back firing from the throttle body air horn is a sign of
1: spark wires put on in wrong firing order. (or forgot to change the or plugs 1 by 1 and not all at once? now are scrambled wrong.)
2: someone played the distributor clamp bolt. (it turns and is wrong now , gross timing errors)
3: cam timed wrong.
4: burned valves in head.
but we work the coil first, always, it must have spark at the coil, if ok then check distributor timing from crank to cam to distributor (end to end)
http://www.fixkick.com