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EGR Cruise Test failure
#1
Please Help!

I have a 1988.5 Samurai with a 1995 Sidekick 16v 1.6 MPI conversion. It runs almost fantastic. I have had almost no problems after a year of chasing all the ghosts out. I recently did a rebuild with new pistons, a new head and new cam. I've changed almost all of the sensors over time as I've had several problems with them in one form or another (bad idle,hard starts, high idle, misfires, etc). Much of the problems I've had I have been able to solve. There is only one remaining problem I am simply unable to figure out.

When I first start my vehicle it warms up as it should. 2,000 rpm for a couple mins, 1500 for a couple more, then it drops to 800 steady after about 5 mins total. I usually let it warm up this way then I get going. After I leave my neighborhood I'll drive for about a mile or two down the road at about 50-55 mph and that's when the problem starts. I usually get a CEL for code 51 while just cruising along steady. I've discovered when this happens, I can slow down to about 40 mph and 2,500 rpms and cruise for about a half mile to a mile and it will go out on its own.
Then it pretty much stays out the rest of the day and does not come back on. I simply cannot figure out why this is happening. I thought it was temperature related. So I changed the coolant temp sensor and thermostat. still doing the same thing.

Here's the list of things I've done in an attempt to solve this problem:

New EGR valve
New VSV
New Modulator
New MAF
New IAT
New ECT Sensor
New Thermostat
New ISC
New IAC
New PCM
New TPS
Cleaned all EGR ports in intake and head
Checked all vacuum lines to ensure no leaks
Timing is set perfectly at 800
New plugs
New wires
New cap and rotor
New fuel pressure regulator
New PCV
New Coil
Cleaned throttle body and its EGR ports

I've done stall test - it passes.
I've done live test - it passes.
I've done all the tests you posted on your page for all the EGR related sensors - they all passed.

The only thing I have not changed is the EGRT sensor. I did a test on it following the info on your fixkick pages. It seems to be putting out the correct resistance when checked at room temp and when I put it in boiling water. So I have not changed it. The cheapest ones I can find at $180 on line. I checked it to ensure the wires were not loose. I've checked the connectors and they are okay too. I cannot find anything wrong with it. So I have not wasted money on it yet.

I am now at the point where I just ordered a 4.7K and 10K resistors from radio shack. My plan is to put them in the EGRT connector one at a time and see if they make a difference. I suspect the ECM is not seeing the correct resistance at the correct time when it checks for the signal during cruise. I am not sure - I am just guessing.

Is there anything else I may be missing? It seems like it only does it when I first start driving it for the day. Then it resets itself if I slow down and cruise at 40 and 2,500 rpm for a minute or two. Its driving me crazy.

Any advice you can offer would be much appreciated. I am frustrated that I cannot figure this out and I've thrown so much money at it that I am near broke.

Thanks - JT
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Messages In This Thread
EGR Cruise Test failure - by jingusflob - 02-03-2018, 11:08 AM
RE: EGR Cruise Test failure - by fixkick - 02-03-2018, 11:50 AM
RE: EGR Cruise Test failure - by fixkick - 02-03-2018, 12:00 PM
RE: EGR Cruise Test failure - by jingusflob - 02-03-2018, 03:07 PM
RE: EGR Cruise Test failure - by fixkick - 02-07-2018, 04:33 AM

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