no tcm, one less drain, key off
we are only at step 1, you know only the drain is on that branch.
i presume you used a passive test lamp. ? 2 connections, fuse dome out, and attached the lamps 2 wires, to the 2 dome fuse terminals.
how a test is done, matters, big time. if yes ,key off and the lamp glows and is real test lamp , not some LED lamp , then that is a huge drain.
and LED uses, .010mA , a lamp is 100mA, real incandecent, so if that glows, that means you have a huge drain. 100mA is huge, .010 is NORMAL.
10times normal or more.
my guess your ammeter blew up the fuse. its in side the case of the DMM, near the battery box some where, in many cases of DMM
this line below,I can not understand. (first part, its unplugged, that is the ONLY way to do that) the fuse is good, sure it is after all when good the illegal drain
happens, then the last 4 words, are contradictory of the first. why?
Radio has no power going to it all, fuse is in and is good. Doesn’t drain the battery.
my drain page covers all ways to isolate any illegal drains.
we pull connectors to find it.
all are in the front of the car, that is if that trailer box is in the rear, if you wired the trailer box to the combo switch in the steering cluster, all bets off.
in all good cases the trailer box adaptor is in the left rear, near the left rear tail light ,trailer harness , jack. the stock wiring is there.
if done well there is no power to the rear there,left rear, main harness runs left of body AT ALL, UNLESS You turn on head lamps or park to on (tail)
the combo switch on the stock car ends all power past it to the rear of the car, (not talking brakes, or reverse or blinks, only Tail.'
the key to find any drain, is to .
1:attach a charger to the battery. (why drain it now with long set of tests below)
dome fuse out now. (its tail too)
2:using a test lamp or ammeter measure the drain continuously) lets say you saw 100mA (0.10Amps) (100mA is lamp drain n most cases or more)
the meter or incandescent passive lamp is across the fuse pins,
if using a lamp test, it must not be a battery one,ever, only true lamps work or real Ampmeter (dmm)
3: next unplug the radio connector 100% this is the only way to prove the radio is not bad. the memory wire is hot all the time, and runs off the dome feed.
4: since car is stock nor can I see it, the trailer box is unplugged, i hope it has connector and not pig tail hashed into harness.
5:the ECU is next, left front speaker behind there is MR, ECU, I unplug it next. all connectors on car are locked, so have to push lever unluck and pull.
6: the car, is 1998, that is a very different car, the 1998 has G16 engine, and 98 ECU. the 1998 can have ABS antilock brakes, does it?
i will stop here and read the 98 schematics. does it have air bags
ever go to mitchells and read the schematics there, see dome fuse, see all loads?
be wise on any car, with a drain to find that first.
ENDLESS OPTIONS IN 98,, DRL GOT DRL, DAYLIGHT DRIVING LIGHTS IN CANADA, USA HAD SOME TOO.? my 98 shows no dome fuse feed here.
AIR BAGs?
ABS? got antilock brakes?
THE USA CAR has a new ecu and new DLC jack above right knee, that jack is 16pins D-shell and is OBD2 comms port and pin 16 runs off, bingo dome
if someone put a DEVICE in that jack(like the teen driver monitor (ins company mandated) or vast other options there) remove it now.
i do not have a fully fsm book on any 1998. id have to go to Mitchell's DIY and read. it.
https://www.eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp
DLC, diag. link connector
see mine, 96 and up USA, mandated by USA EPA, is your car USA? madated in canada 1998 up. are you in canada? Tracker are sold all over N.America.
![[Image: 1999.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/1999.jpg)
once the meter shows say 100mA, we pull connectors all over the car, lacking a real matching schematic of car, there is no other way.
we also have clamp on DC ammeter (magnetic coupling) we can clamp ever dome wire in the car to find the wire that is failing.
i call that the amp clamp. per my dmm page
we are only at step 1, you know only the drain is on that branch.
i presume you used a passive test lamp. ? 2 connections, fuse dome out, and attached the lamps 2 wires, to the 2 dome fuse terminals.
how a test is done, matters, big time. if yes ,key off and the lamp glows and is real test lamp , not some LED lamp , then that is a huge drain.
and LED uses, .010mA , a lamp is 100mA, real incandecent, so if that glows, that means you have a huge drain. 100mA is huge, .010 is NORMAL.
10times normal or more.
my guess your ammeter blew up the fuse. its in side the case of the DMM, near the battery box some where, in many cases of DMM
this line below,I can not understand. (first part, its unplugged, that is the ONLY way to do that) the fuse is good, sure it is after all when good the illegal drain
happens, then the last 4 words, are contradictory of the first. why?
Radio has no power going to it all, fuse is in and is good. Doesn’t drain the battery.
my drain page covers all ways to isolate any illegal drains.
we pull connectors to find it.
all are in the front of the car, that is if that trailer box is in the rear, if you wired the trailer box to the combo switch in the steering cluster, all bets off.
in all good cases the trailer box adaptor is in the left rear, near the left rear tail light ,trailer harness , jack. the stock wiring is there.
if done well there is no power to the rear there,left rear, main harness runs left of body AT ALL, UNLESS You turn on head lamps or park to on (tail)
the combo switch on the stock car ends all power past it to the rear of the car, (not talking brakes, or reverse or blinks, only Tail.'
the key to find any drain, is to .
1:attach a charger to the battery. (why drain it now with long set of tests below)
dome fuse out now. (its tail too)
2:using a test lamp or ammeter measure the drain continuously) lets say you saw 100mA (0.10Amps) (100mA is lamp drain n most cases or more)
the meter or incandescent passive lamp is across the fuse pins,
if using a lamp test, it must not be a battery one,ever, only true lamps work or real Ampmeter (dmm)
3: next unplug the radio connector 100% this is the only way to prove the radio is not bad. the memory wire is hot all the time, and runs off the dome feed.
4: since car is stock nor can I see it, the trailer box is unplugged, i hope it has connector and not pig tail hashed into harness.
5:the ECU is next, left front speaker behind there is MR, ECU, I unplug it next. all connectors on car are locked, so have to push lever unluck and pull.
6: the car, is 1998, that is a very different car, the 1998 has G16 engine, and 98 ECU. the 1998 can have ABS antilock brakes, does it?
i will stop here and read the 98 schematics. does it have air bags
ever go to mitchells and read the schematics there, see dome fuse, see all loads?
be wise on any car, with a drain to find that first.
ENDLESS OPTIONS IN 98,, DRL GOT DRL, DAYLIGHT DRIVING LIGHTS IN CANADA, USA HAD SOME TOO.? my 98 shows no dome fuse feed here.
AIR BAGs?
ABS? got antilock brakes?
THE USA CAR has a new ecu and new DLC jack above right knee, that jack is 16pins D-shell and is OBD2 comms port and pin 16 runs off, bingo dome
if someone put a DEVICE in that jack(like the teen driver monitor (ins company mandated) or vast other options there) remove it now.
i do not have a fully fsm book on any 1998. id have to go to Mitchell's DIY and read. it.
https://www.eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp
DLC, diag. link connector
see mine, 96 and up USA, mandated by USA EPA, is your car USA? madated in canada 1998 up. are you in canada? Tracker are sold all over N.America.
once the meter shows say 100mA, we pull connectors all over the car, lacking a real matching schematic of car, there is no other way.
we also have clamp on DC ammeter (magnetic coupling) we can clamp ever dome wire in the car to find the wire that is failing.
i call that the amp clamp. per my dmm page
http://www.fixkick.com