01-19-2018, 04:06 AM
what year, car?/ i have to work 10x harder lacking at least that? sorry.
the rotor and cap term corrosion is not a problem ,erosion is,
the term's are pure aluminum and are hit by 10,000 volt arcs as it spins, and lasts say 50k miles but that white frost seen there aluminum oxide is 100% normal, as does all bare aluminum does outside (humid),
is car packed outside or garaged? if outside I use Solar cell charger, and the battery can be parked in car, for months, no issues. years in fact,
or buy a smart float charger as all boat and motorcyclist use.
Parasitic drain kills all batteries dead and many can not recover, even 1 year old. )(upgrading to boat deep discharge batteries is one more cure, parked with no power, or unplug the batter or buy the battery disconnect lever or buy the magic unloader, that measure the battery 24/7 and disconnect the battery at 20 % loss of charge. endless solutions to parked cars long time.
the typical normal drain is about .010A, 10 mA (milliamps not 100)
10 to 50 can be seen on new cars.
your car (no spec or year stated, ) has 5 drains,
ECU
TCM
RADIO.
tail park lamps
dome lamp.
RWAL , rear wheel antilock brakes (1991 is classic do you have this thing)?
key warming buzzer.
Ill stop here, we have the schemetic if you had told year.... and matters big time.
"It lit up good and bright with a fully charged battery". you meant, remove ground lug and used tiny lamp from battery neg POST to battery cable net PULLED< that is crude ammeter is the oldest test in the world, even back to 1920 shops did this, and is valid today. or not, I am not clear on what you did there, sorry.
dome is ecu /.TCM and radio memory wires.
all 3 are memory NVRAM data retention power feed
use the DMM on amps scale, start high work low
and ammeter (wired ) goes in series with the load, or across the dome socket fuse pulled there. this is again series connected doing that fuse out
then the manual on all meters shows you that the leads + red must be moved to special jacks (forms and ammeter inside the meter)
Do not read ohms on any powered circuit ever. or the meter is useless.
the radio has up to 5 power wires, the more expensive the radio the more. for sure no idea here what radio you have, most sellers of new cars have 6 or more choices new. and more later endless.
main power,
memory power
dial power 1.
dimmer power
antenna power
why not pull the radio power connector jacks and see if the drain is elses.
0.010a is correct,. 0.100 amps not. or more,
i have a drain page covers this all ways from sunday.
http://www.fixkick.com/drain/drain.html
we know now that it has an illegal drain,
if the car has auto trans and is 4speed, and never the 3speed and never stick shift
then there is only 2 drains on dome. (and dome lamp stuck on, LOL)
the radio and the ecu. and DOME are it, 3 things, 4 if AT 4sp.
so remove the dome lamp, drain gone.
remove radio jack main conn. drain gone,
remove ecu jacks, drain gone
if AT remove TCM jack , drain gone.
the hard part for you is learning how to measure amps.
if you put the test leads in amps mode across any power source most meter either blow up,. or blow a fuse.
so never do that.
and ammeter is a shunt device, that is why.
it must be connected in series for the measuring device to see the voltage across a shunt.
there 10,000 meters made for 100 years now, so id need your meter name and model to me smarter.
mastercraft multi-meter
what number? model is it. 052-0050-2 autoranging ?
read page
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/953499...052-2.html
set the dial to MA. (i do 10amp first just to be sure its not huge currents)
then black lead to COM jack lower right.
the red lead to MA jaCK LOWER LEFT, NOT v JACK upper right (its useless for amps)
now take the dome fuse out.
turn off the dome lamp if on (sorry for captain obvious that)
jab the 2 test leads on to the 2 dome fuse pins
if it reads zero the fuse in the meter blew (the jacks in the book tells you in a warning 10a fused)
if the meter reads .010 amps its good if over 0.050 amps bad, id say .030amps max (10 for each device, not counting dome lamp)
the come can use 100 to 1000 mA, depending on the lamp # they make LED dome lamp that is like .o20 A.after market.
if the tail lamps(called parking lamps today) are stuck on oops
old cars like to have issues.
1: wiring hacks, some one puts in aftermarket bs, like cruise controls or alarms . we look at all wiring and then go is this car hacked, takes me 1/2 hour to detect hacking,
non stock hacks are super easy to see, even with casual looking at harnesses.
even trailer hitch wiring hacks.
add endless list here.
but first get your ammeter working and show real numbers, and things get way easier ofter YEAR car
like this, 1995 sidekick 4wd, 4 door, 4 speed AT
see? all models vary and the 2door and 4doors run there own harnesses.
the rotor and cap term corrosion is not a problem ,erosion is,
the term's are pure aluminum and are hit by 10,000 volt arcs as it spins, and lasts say 50k miles but that white frost seen there aluminum oxide is 100% normal, as does all bare aluminum does outside (humid),
is car packed outside or garaged? if outside I use Solar cell charger, and the battery can be parked in car, for months, no issues. years in fact,
or buy a smart float charger as all boat and motorcyclist use.
Parasitic drain kills all batteries dead and many can not recover, even 1 year old. )(upgrading to boat deep discharge batteries is one more cure, parked with no power, or unplug the batter or buy the battery disconnect lever or buy the magic unloader, that measure the battery 24/7 and disconnect the battery at 20 % loss of charge. endless solutions to parked cars long time.
the typical normal drain is about .010A, 10 mA (milliamps not 100)
10 to 50 can be seen on new cars.
your car (no spec or year stated, ) has 5 drains,
ECU
TCM
RADIO.
tail park lamps
dome lamp.
RWAL , rear wheel antilock brakes (1991 is classic do you have this thing)?
key warming buzzer.
Ill stop here, we have the schemetic if you had told year.... and matters big time.
"It lit up good and bright with a fully charged battery". you meant, remove ground lug and used tiny lamp from battery neg POST to battery cable net PULLED< that is crude ammeter is the oldest test in the world, even back to 1920 shops did this, and is valid today. or not, I am not clear on what you did there, sorry.
dome is ecu /.TCM and radio memory wires.
all 3 are memory NVRAM data retention power feed
use the DMM on amps scale, start high work low
and ammeter (wired ) goes in series with the load, or across the dome socket fuse pulled there. this is again series connected doing that fuse out
then the manual on all meters shows you that the leads + red must be moved to special jacks (forms and ammeter inside the meter)
Do not read ohms on any powered circuit ever. or the meter is useless.
the radio has up to 5 power wires, the more expensive the radio the more. for sure no idea here what radio you have, most sellers of new cars have 6 or more choices new. and more later endless.
main power,
memory power
dial power 1.
dimmer power
antenna power
why not pull the radio power connector jacks and see if the drain is elses.
0.010a is correct,. 0.100 amps not. or more,
i have a drain page covers this all ways from sunday.
http://www.fixkick.com/drain/drain.html
we know now that it has an illegal drain,
if the car has auto trans and is 4speed, and never the 3speed and never stick shift
then there is only 2 drains on dome. (and dome lamp stuck on, LOL)
the radio and the ecu. and DOME are it, 3 things, 4 if AT 4sp.
so remove the dome lamp, drain gone.
remove radio jack main conn. drain gone,
remove ecu jacks, drain gone
if AT remove TCM jack , drain gone.
the hard part for you is learning how to measure amps.
if you put the test leads in amps mode across any power source most meter either blow up,. or blow a fuse.
so never do that.
and ammeter is a shunt device, that is why.
it must be connected in series for the measuring device to see the voltage across a shunt.
there 10,000 meters made for 100 years now, so id need your meter name and model to me smarter.
mastercraft multi-meter
what number? model is it. 052-0050-2 autoranging ?
read page
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/953499...052-2.html
set the dial to MA. (i do 10amp first just to be sure its not huge currents)
then black lead to COM jack lower right.
the red lead to MA jaCK LOWER LEFT, NOT v JACK upper right (its useless for amps)
now take the dome fuse out.
turn off the dome lamp if on (sorry for captain obvious that)
jab the 2 test leads on to the 2 dome fuse pins
if it reads zero the fuse in the meter blew (the jacks in the book tells you in a warning 10a fused)
if the meter reads .010 amps its good if over 0.050 amps bad, id say .030amps max (10 for each device, not counting dome lamp)
the come can use 100 to 1000 mA, depending on the lamp # they make LED dome lamp that is like .o20 A.after market.
if the tail lamps(called parking lamps today) are stuck on oops
old cars like to have issues.
1: wiring hacks, some one puts in aftermarket bs, like cruise controls or alarms . we look at all wiring and then go is this car hacked, takes me 1/2 hour to detect hacking,
non stock hacks are super easy to see, even with casual looking at harnesses.
even trailer hitch wiring hacks.
add endless list here.
but first get your ammeter working and show real numbers, and things get way easier ofter YEAR car
like this, 1995 sidekick 4wd, 4 door, 4 speed AT
see? all models vary and the 2door and 4doors run there own harnesses.
http://www.fixkick.com