LONG FULL ANSWER this time, all tests to find what I call the hARD nut cases.
sorry so slow, I never get emails subscriptions ever now, and cant figure the cure. but will keep trying.
I love seeing smog reports, they are fun for helpers , due to real data , is interesting... and easy here.
clean engine totally for all gases, perfect but . NOX is MAX (aka;NO) NOX is what burns eyes and lungs worse. nasty nasty stuff, and diesels worse.
is this a 3way cat there? it must be.
zero on CO, means all the fuel is burned and/or cat eat it all. (usually both) all good.
your EGR is dead.
why not post a photo of your intake manifold, (so i can see if its the mono port or quad port)
even a photo of cat so i can see how close it is to the header collector end port.
Even a brand new, sidekick (vitara or tracker) removed from the crate , with dead EGR (say night gremlins attacked it., lol) will do that.
in most causes, it be just 1/2 bad, not horrid bad.
the cat stock has stock backpressure, 2Liter or less engine matched.
say what if someone put a cat off some Lincoln/Cadillac say 5 liters. engine size\d.
so then the back pressure is no zero. and the EGR mode goes dead.
why not to the EGR tests.? more that stall and bark.
there are many tests. to do .
use a vucuum gage to see if the egr stalls engine?
the not enough vacuum is bogus. gee you use a $10 vacuum gauge and omg vacuum is good. in 10 seconds work the meter dont lie.
messing the idle stop screw was asinine, x10 tell them that is the job of the bleed screw up top point say this and only this sets idle duty cycle. RPM is ECU job, not anyone elses. ever.
there is test, called live EGR testing.
if the bark tube barks does it? it must,. this is the source of all cat back pressure that makes all MOD valves work
what i the tests.
well lets talk that, and stay away from the smog shop up until this worksl.
your EGR is dead, (and or cat not 3 way cat make sure it is FIRST) and must be to be legal and to PASS both.
the trouble with this test is suzuki changed rules late 1995.
yeas a PITA, that rule
this stinking rotten rule called, most be moving rule. yes, sux swap gas. (its covered in the 96 free book well)
but we can learn the rule as we test. ok>? all it takes are hands and a voltmeter.
got those? and a vacuum gage, you can not fix cars lacking one. for sure 90s cars with lots of vacuum bs.
Your car should be what I call GEN 2 EGR
per this page
http://www.fixkick.com/EGR-Gen2a.html
in 1995 suzuki switched from quad port to mono port, clearly marked above. which one you have I must know now.
see pipe 50 that is the #1 clues. if you have pipe 50 you are blessed with GOOD. 100x easier top clean !!!
learn that there is no EGR vaccum at idle ever. by 2 methods and reasons, the vacuum port on the TB is dead, at idle, (but your mech nicely (bad) wrecked that didnt he/)?
method 2 the VSV valve is 100 % closed, now, at idle (yes the idle switch must be closed, on all kicks at idle or the ecu thinks your not)
so you check vacuum at the P port, TB, see how i marked up the drawings showing "P" in gray?
zero vacuum there, then off idle abit vacuum rises.
at wot the eCU cuts EGR again.
if lucky the eGR MAIN opens parked or in neutral (MTgear gox) as you open the throttle and RPM rises you can feel the EGR diapham move or use mirror and look (2 person test)
they put the EGR main very hard to see, and for sure feel it ,while hot. after all the EGR is dead until hot. engine.
1: make sure so we next test vacuum at. (i will toss coin land on quad port drawing 1
The vacuum lands on 19 hose. must, if not this is sticking rotten rear wheels must turn car to get EGR, we can check easy if this is true next.
1b: 19 dead off idle (hand raise throttle) 19 dead.
we then check voltage on the coil of VSV pins, back probed. watch out this VSV runs backwards from normal thinking. STEP 2:
some valves are open with no key turned on, then with key on the 12vdc goes to valve and it closes.
then when engine is hot and the driver advances the throttle the 12vdc goes to 0 zero voltage and vacuum hits hose 19 and the MOD P nipple
as you see im doing all tests, from the beginning to the end. for the hard nut cases of EGR.
so what is next ?well if 19 goes to vacuum good vacuum, off idle as it must (not the rotten car version which i will do last for you)
move the vacuum gauge to nipple Q on the mod valve. dwg#1
best is Tee fitting here, we want to see what the EGR main sees. so we TEE it and test vacuum at the Q port ! Q= modulated
we gun the hot engine, and vacuum ,now modulated increases here, and helper 2 with a stick mirror sees the diaphragm move, as vacuum increases with RPM
this is the only pure test there is, and i continue..
this test if we see the Q port dead, we then check the bark port (well i do that long long ago )
but most time the bark test passes if the by hand stall passes (or vacuum hand pump why). they both use the same path almost.! but not quite true.
the bark tube nipple on many old EGR are small and LOVE TO CLOG and then renders the how EGR system Dead, so that is why we do the bark test, its childs play easy will of the tube is not crumbling in your hand. Suzuki upgrade the EGR main then to make the tube and it port larger, but lots of clones and other EGR made are wrong here and not upgraded.
The bark port (my name) is just that you yank it off idling and it barks. putt putt putt putt and #4 exhaust port rates.
this is the bark coming from the non stock manifold ,is the worn gasket used there blacking the after market EGR PORT if yes there will be no bark. but then again, stall works so Id say its mostly ok there./
that is it, if the bark is weak due to Cadillac CAT, then that be super hard to discover. 5liter cats have no use hear ever.s same with CADDY, PCV valves. ouch.
now the rotten stinker cars. with most drive car EGR>
just the drive shaft rear of transfer case must spin. (ecu now think car moves and opens EGR ) late 95 to 98 and beyond.
and the Transfer case , speedo gear ,must spin and the cable spin to speedo meter and the speedo meter must work and odomemter roll and the VSS sensor in side must click
or the EGR WILL DEAD forever. (hose 19 dead ) hose 16 is good.
if your ECU has this rule as some later ,95 have and for sure all 1996 to 1998 have then the EGR is dead. I first saw this engine on X90 , the last 95 built (engine)
if you drive the car, are you? the ECU will set VSS dead. but takes some serious driving to to do that.DTC code #24 is VSS dead.
VSS dead has more penalties too. not just above.
what must be done is drive the hot engine car, not all codes set parked, or cold . the car must driven hard to get some codes (DTC errors)
are you? have you?
that is it, there is more
but the above, steps will put you on track on any 95 made
gen 2;
your EGR is dead. sir. im sure.
if quad port, pipe 50 missing
3 ports clogged 1 working you fail smog on 3 dead ports.
easy.
that is why I ask first is this a mono port EGR or not, would save me 1/2 the typing or even 1 photo of the intake. right side.(drivers right)
cheers to you.. !!! and good luck finding OBD1 , techs...
sorry so slow, I never get emails subscriptions ever now, and cant figure the cure. but will keep trying.
I love seeing smog reports, they are fun for helpers , due to real data , is interesting... and easy here.
clean engine totally for all gases, perfect but . NOX is MAX (aka;NO) NOX is what burns eyes and lungs worse. nasty nasty stuff, and diesels worse.
is this a 3way cat there? it must be.
zero on CO, means all the fuel is burned and/or cat eat it all. (usually both) all good.
your EGR is dead.
why not post a photo of your intake manifold, (so i can see if its the mono port or quad port)
even a photo of cat so i can see how close it is to the header collector end port.
Even a brand new, sidekick (vitara or tracker) removed from the crate , with dead EGR (say night gremlins attacked it., lol) will do that.
in most causes, it be just 1/2 bad, not horrid bad.
the cat stock has stock backpressure, 2Liter or less engine matched.
say what if someone put a cat off some Lincoln/Cadillac say 5 liters. engine size\d.
so then the back pressure is no zero. and the EGR mode goes dead.
why not to the EGR tests.? more that stall and bark.
there are many tests. to do .
use a vucuum gage to see if the egr stalls engine?
the not enough vacuum is bogus. gee you use a $10 vacuum gauge and omg vacuum is good. in 10 seconds work the meter dont lie.
messing the idle stop screw was asinine, x10 tell them that is the job of the bleed screw up top point say this and only this sets idle duty cycle. RPM is ECU job, not anyone elses. ever.
there is test, called live EGR testing.
if the bark tube barks does it? it must,. this is the source of all cat back pressure that makes all MOD valves work
what i the tests.
well lets talk that, and stay away from the smog shop up until this worksl.
your EGR is dead, (and or cat not 3 way cat make sure it is FIRST) and must be to be legal and to PASS both.
the trouble with this test is suzuki changed rules late 1995.
yeas a PITA, that rule
this stinking rotten rule called, most be moving rule. yes, sux swap gas. (its covered in the 96 free book well)
but we can learn the rule as we test. ok>? all it takes are hands and a voltmeter.
got those? and a vacuum gage, you can not fix cars lacking one. for sure 90s cars with lots of vacuum bs.
Your car should be what I call GEN 2 EGR
per this page
http://www.fixkick.com/EGR-Gen2a.html
in 1995 suzuki switched from quad port to mono port, clearly marked above. which one you have I must know now.
see pipe 50 that is the #1 clues. if you have pipe 50 you are blessed with GOOD. 100x easier top clean !!!
learn that there is no EGR vaccum at idle ever. by 2 methods and reasons, the vacuum port on the TB is dead, at idle, (but your mech nicely (bad) wrecked that didnt he/)?
method 2 the VSV valve is 100 % closed, now, at idle (yes the idle switch must be closed, on all kicks at idle or the ecu thinks your not)
so you check vacuum at the P port, TB, see how i marked up the drawings showing "P" in gray?
zero vacuum there, then off idle abit vacuum rises.
at wot the eCU cuts EGR again.
if lucky the eGR MAIN opens parked or in neutral (MTgear gox) as you open the throttle and RPM rises you can feel the EGR diapham move or use mirror and look (2 person test)
they put the EGR main very hard to see, and for sure feel it ,while hot. after all the EGR is dead until hot. engine.
1: make sure so we next test vacuum at. (i will toss coin land on quad port drawing 1
The vacuum lands on 19 hose. must, if not this is sticking rotten rear wheels must turn car to get EGR, we can check easy if this is true next.
1b: 19 dead off idle (hand raise throttle) 19 dead.
we then check voltage on the coil of VSV pins, back probed. watch out this VSV runs backwards from normal thinking. STEP 2:
some valves are open with no key turned on, then with key on the 12vdc goes to valve and it closes.
then when engine is hot and the driver advances the throttle the 12vdc goes to 0 zero voltage and vacuum hits hose 19 and the MOD P nipple
as you see im doing all tests, from the beginning to the end. for the hard nut cases of EGR.
so what is next ?well if 19 goes to vacuum good vacuum, off idle as it must (not the rotten car version which i will do last for you)
move the vacuum gauge to nipple Q on the mod valve. dwg#1
best is Tee fitting here, we want to see what the EGR main sees. so we TEE it and test vacuum at the Q port ! Q= modulated
we gun the hot engine, and vacuum ,now modulated increases here, and helper 2 with a stick mirror sees the diaphragm move, as vacuum increases with RPM
this is the only pure test there is, and i continue..
this test if we see the Q port dead, we then check the bark port (well i do that long long ago )
but most time the bark test passes if the by hand stall passes (or vacuum hand pump why). they both use the same path almost.! but not quite true.
the bark tube nipple on many old EGR are small and LOVE TO CLOG and then renders the how EGR system Dead, so that is why we do the bark test, its childs play easy will of the tube is not crumbling in your hand. Suzuki upgrade the EGR main then to make the tube and it port larger, but lots of clones and other EGR made are wrong here and not upgraded.
The bark port (my name) is just that you yank it off idling and it barks. putt putt putt putt and #4 exhaust port rates.
this is the bark coming from the non stock manifold ,is the worn gasket used there blacking the after market EGR PORT if yes there will be no bark. but then again, stall works so Id say its mostly ok there./
that is it, if the bark is weak due to Cadillac CAT, then that be super hard to discover. 5liter cats have no use hear ever.s same with CADDY, PCV valves. ouch.
now the rotten stinker cars. with most drive car EGR>
just the drive shaft rear of transfer case must spin. (ecu now think car moves and opens EGR ) late 95 to 98 and beyond.
and the Transfer case , speedo gear ,must spin and the cable spin to speedo meter and the speedo meter must work and odomemter roll and the VSS sensor in side must click
or the EGR WILL DEAD forever. (hose 19 dead ) hose 16 is good.
if your ECU has this rule as some later ,95 have and for sure all 1996 to 1998 have then the EGR is dead. I first saw this engine on X90 , the last 95 built (engine)
if you drive the car, are you? the ECU will set VSS dead. but takes some serious driving to to do that.DTC code #24 is VSS dead.
VSS dead has more penalties too. not just above.
what must be done is drive the hot engine car, not all codes set parked, or cold . the car must driven hard to get some codes (DTC errors)
are you? have you?
that is it, there is more
but the above, steps will put you on track on any 95 made
gen 2;
your EGR is dead. sir. im sure.
if quad port, pipe 50 missing
3 ports clogged 1 working you fail smog on 3 dead ports.
easy.
that is why I ask first is this a mono port EGR or not, would save me 1/2 the typing or even 1 photo of the intake. right side.(drivers right)
cheers to you.. !!! and good luck finding OBD1 , techs...
http://www.fixkick.com