12-07-2017, 02:48 AM
no i do this post. response in line., IN CAPS.
so i drove it about 10 miles. cel flashes 12 the entire drive. get home. GOOD ! super. shows no intermittent , a good job. known that.
IR pointed on top of thermostat housing reads 182F.. GREAT:
i attempted the check the TPS.
oh boy.. first off... used a .025feeler.. could not find a 26... hope the .001 doesnt matter much. (THAT IS AOK)
TIP remove feeler BEFORE opening throttle.? WHAT DOES THIS MEAN>??? TIP?
took me 30 mins to find it! (THE STOP SCREW????)
lol (it fell)WHAT FELL, THE FEELER FELL? (I LIKE THAT PHRASE, FUNNY TO ME) YES SICK.
ok readings with feeler inserted at idle (and yes i have 7-8mm of cable play) 10MM IS FACTORY SPEC. BUT 8MM IS OK.
THE STOP SCREW MOST BE HITTING THE BELL CRANK THAT TV THING WITH A CABLE IS BELL CRANK (AIRCRAFT TERM USED WITH CABLE DRIVE EVERYTHING ON OLD AIR CRAFT)
THE STOP SCREW STOPS THE BELL CRANK FROM LETTING TV CLOSE, AND SPOTS IT AT NEAR .0005 TB BORE WALL TO TV PLATE END. THAT IS ITS ONLY JOB, JUST THAT.
AND MOST BE RIGHT TO BEGINWITH OR ALL STEPS MANY WILL BE WRONG, NOT JUST IDLE BUT SETTING SPARK TIMING, THIS MUST WORK.
i got a .051.. with feeler removed. (ARE YOU SAYING HERE .051 AT STOP SCREW TIP HAS HUGE GIANT GAP THERE TO START? BEGIN?
YES: THEN HALT HERE AND FIX THAT NOW. A MUST.
OK I FORGOT TO SAY, BADGUY (P0, PREV. OWNERS) LOVE TO DO ANYTHING, SO IF THERE IS GAP THERE THAT MEANS THE GOFFY GUY UNSCREWED THE DONT TOUCH SCREW LIKE 20 TURNS, WOW, NEVER UNDERESTIMATE BAD GUYS. DID HE????????????
SORRY NOW YOU GET TO DO MY NINCOMPOOP PAGE, SORRY IF YOU HAD THIS HAPPEN TO YOU !!!! HOPE YOU CAN STAND CAPS, BUT IT MAKES INLINE ANSWER EASIER.
LETS START AT GROUND ZERO, THE CABLES ALL SLACK, AND TV IS 99.9999% CLOSED (.0005 BORE GAP YOU CANT SEE) 3 ZEROS THERE SEE? NOT 2,
THEN LOOK AT MR, STOP SCREW IT MUST BE TOUCHING THE THROTTLE BELL CRANK LANDING ZONE,(JUST LIKE WHEN CAR WAS NEW), SET TO .0005" tv BRASS PLATE TO WALL BORE.
THE STOP SCREW AT THE OUTSIDE BELL CRANK, HAS NO GAP EVER ON ANY 16V MPI TB. NOT ONE. IF YES THIS CAR IS HACKED !@ PLEASE THIS AND WE CAN FIX IT EASY.
THE OFFICAL FIX FOR ABOUT AT SUZ, IS NEW TB FOR $1200, SAME WITH HONDA. AND TOYOTA.
it was a .042 or 62 dont remember.. (WHAT IS THIS?)
doesnt matter because moving the throttle off idle (and plying jinga with my feeler gauge) the DMM goes to OL.
THIS IS A CALIBRATION, STEP,
1: STOP SCREW IS LANDED ON BELL CRANK SPOT.
CLEAR AS DAY HERE. OFF CAR, IS CLEAR AS DAY, ZERO GAP THERE. AND .0005' TV BLADE (BUTTERFLY ) TO WALL GAP IS SUPER SMALL SO SMALL HUMANS CANT SEE IT.
eems i will have to fire up my desktop pc for images. ive been posting from my cell phone. (site not cell friendly) so i drove it about 10 miles. cel flashes 12 the entire drive. get home. IR pointed on top of thermostat housing reads 182F.. i atempted the check the TPS. oh boy.. first off... used a .025feeler.. could not find a 26... hope the .001 doesnt matter much. TIP remove feeler BEFORE opening throttle. took me 30 mins to find it! lol (it fell) ok readings with feeler inserted at idle (and yes i have 7-8mm of cable play) i got a .051.. with feeler removed. it was a .042 or 62 dont remember.. doesnt matter because moving the throttle off idle (and plying jinga with my feeler gauge) the DMM goes to OL. it only reads with throttle closed. anything but closed... even full open is OL. ????? i think i did it correctly? bottom 2 pins. this is telling me the tps is fubar? if so... i have no codes and it seems to run fine besides the 1500-1900 surge. i would think it would not run at all? also to add..when i cold started it before my drive.. idle was at 1500...when i returned. it was at 800... thats odd. also have a bad trans leak at back of pan.. replaced gasket 2 times.. tq'd properly. pan not bent. still leaking. this is another day. what a messy pain. 2x still leaking. convinced it may not be pan... as this second time i coated both sides of the rubber gasket in japanese Rtv. yes i did... this is my one and only "nincompoop" move so far. still leaking... arrrgghhhh... oh forgot to add... its a federal vehicle. has a brand new 4 wire Denso 02 sensor. new exhaust. long tube
it only reads with throttle closed. (YES THE SWITCH IS CLOSED NOW)
anything but closed... even full open is OL. ????? THE SWITCH OPENS AT 0.026 INCHES OF BELL CRANK ROTATION, AND STAYS OPEN FROM THERE TO WOT, ON ALL g16A/B ENGINES.
i think i did it correctly? bottom 2 pins.
this is telling me the tps is fubar? NO IT DOES NOT, ITS ONLY A SWITCH ON PIN 2 , IT IS NOT A POT OR A RESISTOR THERE, IT IS JUST SWITCH BUT IS CARBON NOT GOLD.
THE POINT OF CARBON IS, GOLD IS PERFECT CONDUCTOR AND CARBON IS NOT, EVER. (A DIAMOND IS CARBON TOO) THE SWITCH IS GOOD LEVER STROKING CARBON.
THE CARBON IS ABOUT (A PAD) ABOUT 1000 ohms end to end.
the ECU knows this, a fact, the ECU know this, (about) 300 to 500 ohms or less good closure status (idle reg = true) the switch over 500 ohms is open
in fact it goes from 500 to 1000 then the contacts go to pure ceramic insulation and infinity in .026 inches. travel
0 to 500 short
1000 to infinity open, the ecu actually uses volts only.
0v or newer is closed
5v open or may be over 2.5vdc, (IDK) only suzuki knows the exact threshold and and does not say , but does say the magic 500 ohms thing, or 300 in GM books.
THE CALIBRATION IS SETTING THE TRIP POINT, 0V TO 5V OR FROM 500 OHMS TO INFINITY AT 0.026 (25) INCHES OF TRAVEL THIS IS A CALIBRATED STEP, WOT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THIS.
if so... i have no codes and it seems to run fine besides the 1500-1900 surge. (IT STILL SURGES WITH IDLE SWITCH AT 0VDC ? RUNNING)?????
i would think it would not run at all? WHY THINK THAT? THE ENGINE HAS FUEL, AIR AND SPARK WHY THING IDLE CONTROLS CAN STALL AND ENGINE,OR OUT OF CONTROL IDLE WILL
IN FACT 1500 RPM MAKES HUGE HP. BIG POWER.
WHAT I THINK IS YOUR PO TRIED TO HIDE THE REAL TRUTH., THAT IS WHAT i THINK... SEEN THIS VAST TIMES, THE EVIL ONES DO THAT. HIDING BAD IS THAT.
IT'S LIKE PUTTING DIRT UNDER THE RUG.
also to add..
when i cold started it before my drive.. idle was at 1500.. THAT IS IAC VALVE NORMAL FAST IDLE good. , AND CLOSES NEAR 150F ALL DO , GOOD.
.when i returned.
it was at 800...THAT IS NORMAL, BUT WHAT ABOUT REGULATION TESTS NOW????????
thats odd. WHY IS 800 RPM ODD?
lso have a bad trans leak at back of pan.. replaced gasket 2 times.. (THE KICK DOWN SEAL FAILED AS CAN THE SHIFTER ROD SEAL AS CAN TAIL SEAL)
tq'd properly
pan not bent. still leaking (TAKES CAREFUL CHECKING TO SEE EXACT STOP ,USE DYE AND UV LIGHT?
. this is another day. what a messy pain. 2x still leaking.
convinced it may not be pan... as this second time i coated both sides of the rubber gasket in japanese Rtv.
yes i did... this is my one and only "nincompoop" move so far. still leaking... YES I HATE LEAKS TOO, AND ALL ARE A PAIN...
arrrgghhhh... oh forgot to add...
its a federal vehicle. has a brand new 4 wire Denso 02 sensor. new exhaust. long tube
THE CAR STARTS AND RUNS 1500 OR MORE RPM COLD ALL DO , AND FASTER OF COLDER, BY ACTIONS OF THE IAC ALONE, IT IS OPEN PARTWAY OR FULLY AT THE NORTH POLE ARCTIC .
THE THE WATER HEATS.
AND AT 150F THE IAC CLOSES 100% FULLY., ANDING THE COLD START FAST IDLE
AT THIS TIME THE ISC GOES ONLINE (NOT OF THE IDLE SWITCH IS BAD OR SET WRONG)
THE ISC IS 2 THINGS, NOT ONE, IT IS A isc solenoid valve (PWM ) modulated just like hondas (some) and the ECu does all modulations.
the ECU holds idle at 800 hot(ac off)
it is just like cruise controls no differences at all except this is RPM regulation and cruise is MPG regulation but works exactly in the same way.
its called a computer servo loop.
the software is simple really, too simple in fact,
if rpm rises it lower air
if rpm below 800 it cuts air (ISC does the cut) by commands.
if you car still surges (a vary bad thing and needs to be fixed before young teens drive car) say so, say when .... surely not hot at idle ever, if yes tell when exactly.
this is called a servo control in engineering terms. or tech, no matter what.
so i drove it about 10 miles. cel flashes 12 the entire drive. get home. GOOD ! super. shows no intermittent , a good job. known that.
IR pointed on top of thermostat housing reads 182F.. GREAT:
i attempted the check the TPS.
oh boy.. first off... used a .025feeler.. could not find a 26... hope the .001 doesnt matter much. (THAT IS AOK)
TIP remove feeler BEFORE opening throttle.? WHAT DOES THIS MEAN>??? TIP?
took me 30 mins to find it! (THE STOP SCREW????)
lol (it fell)WHAT FELL, THE FEELER FELL? (I LIKE THAT PHRASE, FUNNY TO ME) YES SICK.
ok readings with feeler inserted at idle (and yes i have 7-8mm of cable play) 10MM IS FACTORY SPEC. BUT 8MM IS OK.
THE STOP SCREW MOST BE HITTING THE BELL CRANK THAT TV THING WITH A CABLE IS BELL CRANK (AIRCRAFT TERM USED WITH CABLE DRIVE EVERYTHING ON OLD AIR CRAFT)
THE STOP SCREW STOPS THE BELL CRANK FROM LETTING TV CLOSE, AND SPOTS IT AT NEAR .0005 TB BORE WALL TO TV PLATE END. THAT IS ITS ONLY JOB, JUST THAT.
AND MOST BE RIGHT TO BEGINWITH OR ALL STEPS MANY WILL BE WRONG, NOT JUST IDLE BUT SETTING SPARK TIMING, THIS MUST WORK.
i got a .051.. with feeler removed. (ARE YOU SAYING HERE .051 AT STOP SCREW TIP HAS HUGE GIANT GAP THERE TO START? BEGIN?
YES: THEN HALT HERE AND FIX THAT NOW. A MUST.
OK I FORGOT TO SAY, BADGUY (P0, PREV. OWNERS) LOVE TO DO ANYTHING, SO IF THERE IS GAP THERE THAT MEANS THE GOFFY GUY UNSCREWED THE DONT TOUCH SCREW LIKE 20 TURNS, WOW, NEVER UNDERESTIMATE BAD GUYS. DID HE????????????
SORRY NOW YOU GET TO DO MY NINCOMPOOP PAGE, SORRY IF YOU HAD THIS HAPPEN TO YOU !!!! HOPE YOU CAN STAND CAPS, BUT IT MAKES INLINE ANSWER EASIER.
LETS START AT GROUND ZERO, THE CABLES ALL SLACK, AND TV IS 99.9999% CLOSED (.0005 BORE GAP YOU CANT SEE) 3 ZEROS THERE SEE? NOT 2,
THEN LOOK AT MR, STOP SCREW IT MUST BE TOUCHING THE THROTTLE BELL CRANK LANDING ZONE,(JUST LIKE WHEN CAR WAS NEW), SET TO .0005" tv BRASS PLATE TO WALL BORE.
THE STOP SCREW AT THE OUTSIDE BELL CRANK, HAS NO GAP EVER ON ANY 16V MPI TB. NOT ONE. IF YES THIS CAR IS HACKED !@ PLEASE THIS AND WE CAN FIX IT EASY.
THE OFFICAL FIX FOR ABOUT AT SUZ, IS NEW TB FOR $1200, SAME WITH HONDA. AND TOYOTA.
it was a .042 or 62 dont remember.. (WHAT IS THIS?)
doesnt matter because moving the throttle off idle (and plying jinga with my feeler gauge) the DMM goes to OL.
THIS IS A CALIBRATION, STEP,
1: STOP SCREW IS LANDED ON BELL CRANK SPOT.
CLEAR AS DAY HERE. OFF CAR, IS CLEAR AS DAY, ZERO GAP THERE. AND .0005' TV BLADE (BUTTERFLY ) TO WALL GAP IS SUPER SMALL SO SMALL HUMANS CANT SEE IT.
eems i will have to fire up my desktop pc for images. ive been posting from my cell phone. (site not cell friendly) so i drove it about 10 miles. cel flashes 12 the entire drive. get home. IR pointed on top of thermostat housing reads 182F.. i atempted the check the TPS. oh boy.. first off... used a .025feeler.. could not find a 26... hope the .001 doesnt matter much. TIP remove feeler BEFORE opening throttle. took me 30 mins to find it! lol (it fell) ok readings with feeler inserted at idle (and yes i have 7-8mm of cable play) i got a .051.. with feeler removed. it was a .042 or 62 dont remember.. doesnt matter because moving the throttle off idle (and plying jinga with my feeler gauge) the DMM goes to OL. it only reads with throttle closed. anything but closed... even full open is OL. ????? i think i did it correctly? bottom 2 pins. this is telling me the tps is fubar? if so... i have no codes and it seems to run fine besides the 1500-1900 surge. i would think it would not run at all? also to add..when i cold started it before my drive.. idle was at 1500...when i returned. it was at 800... thats odd. also have a bad trans leak at back of pan.. replaced gasket 2 times.. tq'd properly. pan not bent. still leaking. this is another day. what a messy pain. 2x still leaking. convinced it may not be pan... as this second time i coated both sides of the rubber gasket in japanese Rtv. yes i did... this is my one and only "nincompoop" move so far. still leaking... arrrgghhhh... oh forgot to add... its a federal vehicle. has a brand new 4 wire Denso 02 sensor. new exhaust. long tube
it only reads with throttle closed. (YES THE SWITCH IS CLOSED NOW)
anything but closed... even full open is OL. ????? THE SWITCH OPENS AT 0.026 INCHES OF BELL CRANK ROTATION, AND STAYS OPEN FROM THERE TO WOT, ON ALL g16A/B ENGINES.
i think i did it correctly? bottom 2 pins.
this is telling me the tps is fubar? NO IT DOES NOT, ITS ONLY A SWITCH ON PIN 2 , IT IS NOT A POT OR A RESISTOR THERE, IT IS JUST SWITCH BUT IS CARBON NOT GOLD.
THE POINT OF CARBON IS, GOLD IS PERFECT CONDUCTOR AND CARBON IS NOT, EVER. (A DIAMOND IS CARBON TOO) THE SWITCH IS GOOD LEVER STROKING CARBON.
THE CARBON IS ABOUT (A PAD) ABOUT 1000 ohms end to end.
the ECU knows this, a fact, the ECU know this, (about) 300 to 500 ohms or less good closure status (idle reg = true) the switch over 500 ohms is open
in fact it goes from 500 to 1000 then the contacts go to pure ceramic insulation and infinity in .026 inches. travel
0 to 500 short
1000 to infinity open, the ecu actually uses volts only.
0v or newer is closed
5v open or may be over 2.5vdc, (IDK) only suzuki knows the exact threshold and and does not say , but does say the magic 500 ohms thing, or 300 in GM books.
THE CALIBRATION IS SETTING THE TRIP POINT, 0V TO 5V OR FROM 500 OHMS TO INFINITY AT 0.026 (25) INCHES OF TRAVEL THIS IS A CALIBRATED STEP, WOT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THIS.
if so... i have no codes and it seems to run fine besides the 1500-1900 surge. (IT STILL SURGES WITH IDLE SWITCH AT 0VDC ? RUNNING)?????
i would think it would not run at all? WHY THINK THAT? THE ENGINE HAS FUEL, AIR AND SPARK WHY THING IDLE CONTROLS CAN STALL AND ENGINE,OR OUT OF CONTROL IDLE WILL
IN FACT 1500 RPM MAKES HUGE HP. BIG POWER.
WHAT I THINK IS YOUR PO TRIED TO HIDE THE REAL TRUTH., THAT IS WHAT i THINK... SEEN THIS VAST TIMES, THE EVIL ONES DO THAT. HIDING BAD IS THAT.
IT'S LIKE PUTTING DIRT UNDER THE RUG.
also to add..
when i cold started it before my drive.. idle was at 1500.. THAT IS IAC VALVE NORMAL FAST IDLE good. , AND CLOSES NEAR 150F ALL DO , GOOD.
.when i returned.
it was at 800...THAT IS NORMAL, BUT WHAT ABOUT REGULATION TESTS NOW????????
thats odd. WHY IS 800 RPM ODD?
lso have a bad trans leak at back of pan.. replaced gasket 2 times.. (THE KICK DOWN SEAL FAILED AS CAN THE SHIFTER ROD SEAL AS CAN TAIL SEAL)
tq'd properly
pan not bent. still leaking (TAKES CAREFUL CHECKING TO SEE EXACT STOP ,USE DYE AND UV LIGHT?
. this is another day. what a messy pain. 2x still leaking.
convinced it may not be pan... as this second time i coated both sides of the rubber gasket in japanese Rtv.
yes i did... this is my one and only "nincompoop" move so far. still leaking... YES I HATE LEAKS TOO, AND ALL ARE A PAIN...
arrrgghhhh... oh forgot to add...
its a federal vehicle. has a brand new 4 wire Denso 02 sensor. new exhaust. long tube
THE CAR STARTS AND RUNS 1500 OR MORE RPM COLD ALL DO , AND FASTER OF COLDER, BY ACTIONS OF THE IAC ALONE, IT IS OPEN PARTWAY OR FULLY AT THE NORTH POLE ARCTIC .
THE THE WATER HEATS.
AND AT 150F THE IAC CLOSES 100% FULLY., ANDING THE COLD START FAST IDLE
AT THIS TIME THE ISC GOES ONLINE (NOT OF THE IDLE SWITCH IS BAD OR SET WRONG)
THE ISC IS 2 THINGS, NOT ONE, IT IS A isc solenoid valve (PWM ) modulated just like hondas (some) and the ECu does all modulations.
the ECU holds idle at 800 hot(ac off)
it is just like cruise controls no differences at all except this is RPM regulation and cruise is MPG regulation but works exactly in the same way.
its called a computer servo loop.
the software is simple really, too simple in fact,
if rpm rises it lower air
if rpm below 800 it cuts air (ISC does the cut) by commands.
if you car still surges (a vary bad thing and needs to be fixed before young teens drive car) say so, say when .... surely not hot at idle ever, if yes tell when exactly.
this is called a servo control in engineering terms. or tech, no matter what.
http://www.fixkick.com