12-07-2017, 01:37 AM
cell friendly sites, are expensive, imagine supporting 100s of vastly different (communications devices today, think $$$$$)
I do only 1., and is free, costs me zero costs you zero and that is all you get for Free (grin)
a good feeler gauge has a screw nut on the side, and they come out, and you can add up any size you want, imagine how we do this on motorcycles, engines, impossibe to fit that large object in to tiny access hole. bingo better feeler gauges sets are sold, but 1 thou, is ok, no big deal, at all lacking that, I think but never tried, but hell my hand shakes at least .001" at 70yo
unplugging sensors is a bad idea, (with exceptions) limphome mode hit you, and burns up a CAT fast, so dont do that, unless desperate,
I suspected you as a tech all along, but not honda.. ever work 95 hondas, all this is SOP , same stuff OBD1 junk on all cars even 95 toyotas same bull, end to end only parts move,.
you never see old cars because the repair bill is same as car value, $500
and no shop wants to eat labor, using the laws (mechanics lien) no need to use that on a $500 car, that dont run right how is shop going to sell that car? lien'd now, and make profits.
impossible so many shops do not ever touch a car, or do so , with very very careful tactics.. (endless answer here)
OBD1 sucks , it sucks swap gas, I understand it can deal with it ok but it is a big pain, not only that the limphome mode is HORRID until 1996 when the EPA corrected this blunder.
in truth a 95 kick is 10x more valuable than any 95 toyota, just drive it (kick) on ice or deep snow, light 4wd is SUPER GOOD.
the folks up in canada love them and some pay $3000 to find one rust free, no kidding,, but that is there.
OMG (oh my golly) that car shines like new, its a beauty, and my fav color, !!!
let me warn you now the FPR may be bad, most are now, 1995 . lots of posts on them failing now, the diaphragm was never made to last this long.
OMG 2, chrome headers on kick, wow. got a cat there? if not the EGR is now dead, for ever. no issues if not smog tested, there is no p421 codes in 1995 either.
ok i see you have CAT. no stench matters, parked in traffic for sURE.
dont feel stupid, OBD1 is stupid
the only thing worse is 1975 VW with German , early ANALOG EFI, wow, what trash that is, but would love to tune one for a challenge, yes, sick i am.
the maf, is the funny screen still in front of it?
it is no screen, at all, its a laminar air flow device, it takes the air flow and makes it go straight or the MAF lies.
nor letting the maf bounce gee what bad that is, for damage and for making it read wrong.
Id bet the cone filter actual reduces power, on dyno at wot. or on a track wot.
thanks for the photos, love em.
all.
when the idle switch works
3 things begin.
1: ac ON rpm jump +200 to 1000
2: idle holds at 800 even with blower on , defrost on and head lights on (the test is all 3 and once with 3 arms , lol)
3: the drive from P>N>D rpm holds at 800.
when that works ISC is ok and the idle switch is closed and pin 2 at 0v.
see this yet my huge annotated schematic of 95 ecu.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/92-95MPI-eng-...e-huge.png
see pin 2? it also corrects SUZUKI blundering lie there on the TPS, note the switch is open, silly no? showing off idle, but is ok. the switch shorts to ground, line.pin1.
if it is at 0v, then the switch is closed. im sure the ECU has pull up resistor on that pin a18, guess at 5k resistor to 5vdc. never measured it but that would work, inside.
one ok sensor to pull running is mr, O2 sensor.
this can find a bad 02 or a exhaust leak to it near by. (lacking 0bd1 scan tools) this can work, wonders, if engine goes rich.
I do only 1., and is free, costs me zero costs you zero and that is all you get for Free (grin)
a good feeler gauge has a screw nut on the side, and they come out, and you can add up any size you want, imagine how we do this on motorcycles, engines, impossibe to fit that large object in to tiny access hole. bingo better feeler gauges sets are sold, but 1 thou, is ok, no big deal, at all lacking that, I think but never tried, but hell my hand shakes at least .001" at 70yo
unplugging sensors is a bad idea, (with exceptions) limphome mode hit you, and burns up a CAT fast, so dont do that, unless desperate,
I suspected you as a tech all along, but not honda.. ever work 95 hondas, all this is SOP , same stuff OBD1 junk on all cars even 95 toyotas same bull, end to end only parts move,.
you never see old cars because the repair bill is same as car value, $500
and no shop wants to eat labor, using the laws (mechanics lien) no need to use that on a $500 car, that dont run right how is shop going to sell that car? lien'd now, and make profits.
impossible so many shops do not ever touch a car, or do so , with very very careful tactics.. (endless answer here)
OBD1 sucks , it sucks swap gas, I understand it can deal with it ok but it is a big pain, not only that the limphome mode is HORRID until 1996 when the EPA corrected this blunder.
in truth a 95 kick is 10x more valuable than any 95 toyota, just drive it (kick) on ice or deep snow, light 4wd is SUPER GOOD.
the folks up in canada love them and some pay $3000 to find one rust free, no kidding,, but that is there.
OMG (oh my golly) that car shines like new, its a beauty, and my fav color, !!!
let me warn you now the FPR may be bad, most are now, 1995 . lots of posts on them failing now, the diaphragm was never made to last this long.
OMG 2, chrome headers on kick, wow. got a cat there? if not the EGR is now dead, for ever. no issues if not smog tested, there is no p421 codes in 1995 either.
ok i see you have CAT. no stench matters, parked in traffic for sURE.
dont feel stupid, OBD1 is stupid
the only thing worse is 1975 VW with German , early ANALOG EFI, wow, what trash that is, but would love to tune one for a challenge, yes, sick i am.
the maf, is the funny screen still in front of it?
it is no screen, at all, its a laminar air flow device, it takes the air flow and makes it go straight or the MAF lies.
nor letting the maf bounce gee what bad that is, for damage and for making it read wrong.
Id bet the cone filter actual reduces power, on dyno at wot. or on a track wot.
thanks for the photos, love em.
all.
when the idle switch works
3 things begin.
1: ac ON rpm jump +200 to 1000
2: idle holds at 800 even with blower on , defrost on and head lights on (the test is all 3 and once with 3 arms , lol)
3: the drive from P>N>D rpm holds at 800.
when that works ISC is ok and the idle switch is closed and pin 2 at 0v.
see this yet my huge annotated schematic of 95 ecu.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/92-95MPI-eng-...e-huge.png
see pin 2? it also corrects SUZUKI blundering lie there on the TPS, note the switch is open, silly no? showing off idle, but is ok. the switch shorts to ground, line.pin1.
if it is at 0v, then the switch is closed. im sure the ECU has pull up resistor on that pin a18, guess at 5k resistor to 5vdc. never measured it but that would work, inside.
one ok sensor to pull running is mr, O2 sensor.
this can find a bad 02 or a exhaust leak to it near by. (lacking 0bd1 scan tools) this can work, wonders, if engine goes rich.
http://www.fixkick.com