GAP 0.028" (That 2nd zero matters-grin) im sure is just a typo.
both cables are set slack, and not time must any cable there (up to 3 with cruise option) allowed to keep the TV from fully closing, and does.fully.
the tricky cable is Kickdown. it has special setup seeing in the 3sp or 4 speed manual.
is car 2door or 4, is transmission 3 of 4 speed. be nice to know full car spec. like that.
yes cables will will wreck the ISC idle controller , after all the ISC has limited range and is calibrated. to 50 % duty cycle.
hunting idle hot. Is it hot 180f or more?
hunting is caused by 2 things,
idle RPM is 800 RPM 180f water temp, 150f will cause all idle controls to fail. x2.
lets start at the beginning and not ago to surge yet.
1: key on, CEL on , does the CEL glow, it must or the ECU is dead,or lamp burned out or some, killed it on purpose using black tap, lamp pulled or cut wires. the CEL must work
its is your only way to see if the ECU is happy, (lacking the proper scan tools)
2: start engine, hot CEL goes out. does it?
3: insert the Diagnosis jumper clip in the DLC connector next to batter (rubber cap on the conn)
the CEL flashes, 12s, all the time even driving and the 19oo surge happens. (you did the above i see but do it while driving hot !!!)
point to, you dont 800 rpm idle speed, the ECU does that, and is its job. 100% it an ilde servo there, with ISC< if say you turn on the blower (not ac) and head lamps at once
the extra power that the alternator puts out to do that, cause more load on the engine (no free energy exists) the RPM drops but in 1second the ECU opens the ISC and holds RPM at 800
that is how it works, even going in to DRIVE the huge load of the TC (torque convert) will in fact slow the engine drastically so the ECU again, opens the ISC and 800 is heald.
That is how idle controls work and no human does that ever, or bad happens.
the surge is caused by many things,
1: a lean engine, will always surge. and lots of causes, (dirty maf, or o2 sensor reads wrong rich , causing lean burn) its not clogged injectors or car would never go 85mph.
2: it very low TV settings, (im not sure what 1900 would be there TV wise) but of somone failed to calibrate the TPS< the TPS ilde can see be engaged just slightly off idle stops.
The TPS idle switch set wrong to be late to open (open means kill idle controls) causes those controls to fight the driver right foot.
the effect is maddening once felt by any driver. easy fix, calibrate the TPS per the manual. ohm meter or volts, and feeler gauges.
the PCV is just check valve. if the engine back fires you do not want the flames to hit the fumes in the crank case.
and the pressure in the crank case blows and sucks so the check valve (called PCV) also prevents the crank case from sucking air and fuel from the induction, solving both problems with 1 check valve. its working as designed as they say.
spark timing is not ECU controlled on this car, (advance is but not static timed by ECU)
The ECU takes your human set , static time and adds to it (Algebra:, totalsparktime= static+ ECU advance
that means we use the timing freeze jumper (to kill dead the ECU advance) and set the static timing with the distributor base screw loose (a tad) to the front timing scale per the white sticker under hood says what static time is , 8deg. BTDC is common, some are 5, Calif car can differ from FED car.
pictures resize them to 1025x768, so they fit and not fill up your max allottment. some cameras run 9000 pixel sizes , my Canon does. and are hopeless anywhere, big as 2 barn doors they are.
TPS cal; see page there for 16v only.
static timing per my spark timing see that? in the search box. at fixkick.com type spark timing.
the TV must be 99.99% closed, parked, engine on or off. if not some bad guy wrecked the idle stop screw, messing with it, and takes hard work to do that and to cure it. TB removed best way.
i have page on curing the bad guy actions. on TV> im the only one to reverse engine this suzuki secret, just using feeler gauges, .005"
TPS MUST NOT BE TOUCHEd until you are sure nobody messed with the stops. TV stops. the screw that says dont touch me.
AC lowering RPM tells me the IDLE controls are dead. for sure, AC on is 900-1000 RPm hard coded in the ECU,forget exact , its in the book. but RPM rises with AC by direct ECU intervention and ISC actions. same with Drive, ISC is dead. for sure. why only remains, most are just dirty ISC.
use as $5 stethoscope to find clicks
or just gas line 2 foot long to ear find click sources easy, is it the ISC>> be easy to hear it like that, doing that.
is MAF cleaned yet, from 6 inches afar, with maf cleaner (any plastics safe cleaner) ???
clean the ISC, is a day one fix. most are gunked up
the EGR gas + PCV gas cloud makes this huge nasty gas cloud in the plenum
and gets into all ISC and jams them its major service point.
and is TV 99.99% closed, foot off throttle, parked, running or idling .
in fact its so closed , on a bench water poured there will not pass the TV edges. in the bore. a fact.
and must BE SO. or idle controls will be hard or impossible to attain.
you have done lots of good work here, seems to me some minor fixes yes;
clean ISC (setting the duty cycle to 50% on this car is very hard, to do . using the TB bleed screw, (I use a scope but there are other ways (hard)
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...ge_35.html
bleed here.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...ge_31.html
set timing, spark (check it) always assume the last guy owned car did all things wrong, thinking like its a carb car, or new car, (both wrong thinking and actions)
TPS calibration (idle switch is the device set)
Clean MAF (this will help low RPM air fuel mix. the MAF hardly works right at 800 RPM (it does but if coked up, not. clean it at a distance not hard nozzles blasted, to the very fragile elements inside)
even hot idle maf voltage is easy to check.
1.7–2.0vdc (800 rpm hot) search maf on my pages. suz, spec.
my fixkick pages on TPS suck (BUT I NEVER Got to finish it), i should never have mixed up 8v/16v , so here.
16v tps CAL.
1: the TV must close fully in, not this must be corrected first, (badguy set the stop screw, and most not, gunk below plate blocking it, cables wrong)
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...d-back.jpg
2: the TPS is loosed (a bit at the tiny screws)
3: feeler gage sizes .026" (stacking them is ok to add up to this, ) at the stop screw to throttle arm. point as seen here.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/Tb-95-a.jpg
the point to reach is very very hard to reach as seen here. so I take off the cable bracket, its easy , to do really.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/TB.jpg
4: meter on switch. pins. 16 pins are as follows. the 2 bottom pins are the correct idle switch pins.
this is 96 up year but only the .026" was changed to .031" test feeler size.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/TPS/TPS96-98b.jpg
turn the TPS BY HAND, so the ohms readings, lands AT THE transition point.
closed, THIS switch (made of carbon not gold) goes from 0 to 500 ohms. (SIMPLy said low ohms is closed and infinity is open)
then you see (turned) it go to like 1000 ohms and then infinity, the start of Infinity is the correct point to set the TPS and lock down the screws.
(feeler in place the whole time)
only TPS pin 1 and 2 USED, NO OTHERS. here.
the meter if fixed range meter set ohms scale to 2k ohms 2000, it will go overrange at infinity, ("O.R" or "O.L" or 'INF" or ".1" my HP meter, or 1111)
each meter made sadly ,shows what they(maker) wants for OR, over-range or infinity.
to learn that ,just dial up ohms and see the meter reading, leads not touching any thing (ends) now you know your O.R reading.
now short the leads and see .001 or .01 or some low value for a short. it will never be 0.0000 ohms due to lead resistance. (but some meter have an auto zero feature, so. 0.000 can happen)
that is it. on TPS.
if the TV closes fully, it is ready to do the TPS CAL:.
cheers ! and happy holidays...!!!
both cables are set slack, and not time must any cable there (up to 3 with cruise option) allowed to keep the TV from fully closing, and does.fully.
the tricky cable is Kickdown. it has special setup seeing in the 3sp or 4 speed manual.
is car 2door or 4, is transmission 3 of 4 speed. be nice to know full car spec. like that.
yes cables will will wreck the ISC idle controller , after all the ISC has limited range and is calibrated. to 50 % duty cycle.
hunting idle hot. Is it hot 180f or more?
hunting is caused by 2 things,
idle RPM is 800 RPM 180f water temp, 150f will cause all idle controls to fail. x2.
lets start at the beginning and not ago to surge yet.
1: key on, CEL on , does the CEL glow, it must or the ECU is dead,or lamp burned out or some, killed it on purpose using black tap, lamp pulled or cut wires. the CEL must work
its is your only way to see if the ECU is happy, (lacking the proper scan tools)
2: start engine, hot CEL goes out. does it?
3: insert the Diagnosis jumper clip in the DLC connector next to batter (rubber cap on the conn)
the CEL flashes, 12s, all the time even driving and the 19oo surge happens. (you did the above i see but do it while driving hot !!!)
point to, you dont 800 rpm idle speed, the ECU does that, and is its job. 100% it an ilde servo there, with ISC< if say you turn on the blower (not ac) and head lamps at once
the extra power that the alternator puts out to do that, cause more load on the engine (no free energy exists) the RPM drops but in 1second the ECU opens the ISC and holds RPM at 800
that is how it works, even going in to DRIVE the huge load of the TC (torque convert) will in fact slow the engine drastically so the ECU again, opens the ISC and 800 is heald.
That is how idle controls work and no human does that ever, or bad happens.
the surge is caused by many things,
1: a lean engine, will always surge. and lots of causes, (dirty maf, or o2 sensor reads wrong rich , causing lean burn) its not clogged injectors or car would never go 85mph.
2: it very low TV settings, (im not sure what 1900 would be there TV wise) but of somone failed to calibrate the TPS< the TPS ilde can see be engaged just slightly off idle stops.
The TPS idle switch set wrong to be late to open (open means kill idle controls) causes those controls to fight the driver right foot.
the effect is maddening once felt by any driver. easy fix, calibrate the TPS per the manual. ohm meter or volts, and feeler gauges.
the PCV is just check valve. if the engine back fires you do not want the flames to hit the fumes in the crank case.
and the pressure in the crank case blows and sucks so the check valve (called PCV) also prevents the crank case from sucking air and fuel from the induction, solving both problems with 1 check valve. its working as designed as they say.
spark timing is not ECU controlled on this car, (advance is but not static timed by ECU)
The ECU takes your human set , static time and adds to it (Algebra:, totalsparktime= static+ ECU advance
that means we use the timing freeze jumper (to kill dead the ECU advance) and set the static timing with the distributor base screw loose (a tad) to the front timing scale per the white sticker under hood says what static time is , 8deg. BTDC is common, some are 5, Calif car can differ from FED car.
pictures resize them to 1025x768, so they fit and not fill up your max allottment. some cameras run 9000 pixel sizes , my Canon does. and are hopeless anywhere, big as 2 barn doors they are.
TPS cal; see page there for 16v only.
static timing per my spark timing see that? in the search box. at fixkick.com type spark timing.
the TV must be 99.99% closed, parked, engine on or off. if not some bad guy wrecked the idle stop screw, messing with it, and takes hard work to do that and to cure it. TB removed best way.
i have page on curing the bad guy actions. on TV> im the only one to reverse engine this suzuki secret, just using feeler gauges, .005"
TPS MUST NOT BE TOUCHEd until you are sure nobody messed with the stops. TV stops. the screw that says dont touch me.
AC lowering RPM tells me the IDLE controls are dead. for sure, AC on is 900-1000 RPm hard coded in the ECU,forget exact , its in the book. but RPM rises with AC by direct ECU intervention and ISC actions. same with Drive, ISC is dead. for sure. why only remains, most are just dirty ISC.
use as $5 stethoscope to find clicks
or just gas line 2 foot long to ear find click sources easy, is it the ISC>> be easy to hear it like that, doing that.
is MAF cleaned yet, from 6 inches afar, with maf cleaner (any plastics safe cleaner) ???
clean the ISC, is a day one fix. most are gunked up
the EGR gas + PCV gas cloud makes this huge nasty gas cloud in the plenum
and gets into all ISC and jams them its major service point.
and is TV 99.99% closed, foot off throttle, parked, running or idling .
in fact its so closed , on a bench water poured there will not pass the TV edges. in the bore. a fact.
and must BE SO. or idle controls will be hard or impossible to attain.
you have done lots of good work here, seems to me some minor fixes yes;
clean ISC (setting the duty cycle to 50% on this car is very hard, to do . using the TB bleed screw, (I use a scope but there are other ways (hard)
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...ge_35.html
bleed here.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...ge_31.html
set timing, spark (check it) always assume the last guy owned car did all things wrong, thinking like its a carb car, or new car, (both wrong thinking and actions)
TPS calibration (idle switch is the device set)
Clean MAF (this will help low RPM air fuel mix. the MAF hardly works right at 800 RPM (it does but if coked up, not. clean it at a distance not hard nozzles blasted, to the very fragile elements inside)
even hot idle maf voltage is easy to check.
1.7–2.0vdc (800 rpm hot) search maf on my pages. suz, spec.
my fixkick pages on TPS suck (BUT I NEVER Got to finish it), i should never have mixed up 8v/16v , so here.
16v tps CAL.
1: the TV must close fully in, not this must be corrected first, (badguy set the stop screw, and most not, gunk below plate blocking it, cables wrong)
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...d-back.jpg
2: the TPS is loosed (a bit at the tiny screws)
3: feeler gage sizes .026" (stacking them is ok to add up to this, ) at the stop screw to throttle arm. point as seen here.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/Tb-95-a.jpg
the point to reach is very very hard to reach as seen here. so I take off the cable bracket, its easy , to do really.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/TB.jpg
4: meter on switch. pins. 16 pins are as follows. the 2 bottom pins are the correct idle switch pins.
this is 96 up year but only the .026" was changed to .031" test feeler size.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/TPS/TPS96-98b.jpg
turn the TPS BY HAND, so the ohms readings, lands AT THE transition point.
closed, THIS switch (made of carbon not gold) goes from 0 to 500 ohms. (SIMPLy said low ohms is closed and infinity is open)
then you see (turned) it go to like 1000 ohms and then infinity, the start of Infinity is the correct point to set the TPS and lock down the screws.
(feeler in place the whole time)
only TPS pin 1 and 2 USED, NO OTHERS. here.
the meter if fixed range meter set ohms scale to 2k ohms 2000, it will go overrange at infinity, ("O.R" or "O.L" or 'INF" or ".1" my HP meter, or 1111)
each meter made sadly ,shows what they(maker) wants for OR, over-range or infinity.
to learn that ,just dial up ohms and see the meter reading, leads not touching any thing (ends) now you know your O.R reading.
now short the leads and see .001 or .01 or some low value for a short. it will never be 0.0000 ohms due to lead resistance. (but some meter have an auto zero feature, so. 0.000 can happen)
that is it. on TPS.
if the TV closes fully, it is ready to do the TPS CAL:.
cheers ! and happy holidays...!!!
http://www.fixkick.com