high rpm cutout g16b

[Suzu99]

i have a suzuki esteem with a g16b 4 speed auto. it cuts out right before it changes gears. or for example say your cruising at 60mph then you just floor the pedal. all it would do is cutout and barely accelerate. i replaced the coils, wires, plugs, tried different gaps, fuel filter, fuel pump is to spec, o2 sensor, coolant temp sensor, cps sensor, tried higher octane gas, i had a mechanic look at it for free and he said he thinks its the coils or some kind of crank or cam sensor? well after he said that i got the new coils on. what do you think it is? i dont think its a misfire. you know how when you almost stall a manual car and it jerks. thats how it feels at higher rpms or underload or going up a hill. the car is all stock when the problem arised. since then i removed the airbox and put a kn filter right off the intake tube and removed the resonator and put a exhaust can on. it still cutout before i did the mods. the engine goes west east not north south if that means anything to you guys. car has 138k. i bought the car with 131k and it didnt have the problem when i test drove it. but as soon as i drove it home it started the cutout problem and threw a code for bad cam position sensor. i replaced the cps and ever since then it still cuts out. could i be over looking this and it could just be a bad cps and the ecu dont see it? or did i some how ruin the timing?

I have a 1999 1.6 Esteem wagon with identical problems that Dylan 1303 listed on the Suzuki forum -- engine sputters at high revs. With mine it keeps running, but then keeps sputtering at lower and lower revs and eventually quits. Next day it's fine until it's warms up -- and repeats same. It does seem to run hot, as problems start when it reaches about 207 degrees. I live in northern Canada, and discovered that when the outside temperature drops below freezing, the problem disappeared. Like Dylan, I went to several mechanics who couldn't identify problem. Question to everybody: Why is problem fixed due to freezing outside temperature? In non-freezing temperatures the car would only run for about 15 minutes -- if put under some high revs to bring coolant temperature up to 207. Now, in freezing weather, the temperature doesn't get that high, and the car works fine, even under high revs. Is it a sensor problem? A gummed up throttle? I did have catalytic converter removed about a year before problems began. Last mechanic worked for free, and thinks it could be EGR, or faulty computer. I did previously replace computer (from a salvage yard) when problem initially presented, but it didn't improve, so I put original computer back in. Has small oil leak in area I believe close to camshaft control ( right top side of transverse engine as facing engine from front) where camshaft sensor plugs into (when sensor is unplugged engine would die -- naturally). So, to summarize, freezing outside temperature seems to fix problem -- which is what? It's not the coils, as I bought one, and then changed out remaining coil in different positions. Timing belt changed 4 years ago. Car has just less than 100,000 miles (around 160,000 kilometers). Note: none of mechanics knew about freezing outside temperatures fixing problem, as I just recently stumbled across it.