Hello and welcome!
G16kc (8v) or G16KV (16valve, 2 door, or 4 doors, 4wd or 2wd? ) use signature so all readers no not have to read all pages to find what drive train is there. post 6 8v. ok.
still doing same thing, please tell all the car (engine) does good and bad. under all conditions of hot and cold, ,idle speeds hot, driving, flat out, up hills and all that. all evidence matters, tell them all please. the good the bad and the ugly tells what's up.
its and old car. and was hacked, so maybe there are other hacks there, as is common, on old OBD1 cars, most folks any many mechanics cant understand.
OBD1 is long forgetting now,, very very few cars run like this now, ever seen and old toyota this old running perfect , not really.
it can be fixed, above is REALITIES of life, on all old cars.
why not start over, 92 tracker. it has a 5 speed .
8v valve engines.
what ECU is there,? 56B30? what/ matters too. what there, i can make a list, need one? a linear, accurate and logical list. in car work its called basics.
CAT still there.
EGR still there. all parts.
i can not see your car, and in seconds me seeing it see, 2 things, missing things, or super wrong part on car, or connected totally wrong.
no DTC codes? the ECU flashes code 12 running, after hot run , still running, not key'd off> use the jumper.
back. now
is engine compression good.? 160PSI wide open throttle? its and old engine, why not see it is ok, and not going to get worse soon. all old cars its best to start here.
then check spark timing, using the freeze jumper,
the ECU can go to limphome mode, so is MPG 15mpg or near 30mpg? limp = 15.
fuel pressure at spec.
Cat converter not melted, ,each line here is test and requisite tool. in this case a vacuum tool checks it this easy
fuel injector clogged. (from bad fuel, or hotwiring it, it can be damaged easy, it is a 1ohm coil there, and if you hot wire it and it gets hot, its will be damaged, so very easy, (ohms law, I= E/R or 12/1 , or 12amps, flows, hot wired, or 144watts and it burns to a crisp, that tiny coil. inside the injector or is INJURED, ever seen copper wire burn, the insulation off, its called magnet wire, and can be good, bad or DAMAGED, if damaged it can burn up the 10 ECU, put in. This is why we never hot wire any injector ever. or risk that folly above endlessly.
vacuum lines leaking will mess up the Map or cause excessive idle speeds,, hot RPM 800 RPM or some other wrong RPM.
this ECU , the dome fuse PULLED for 1min, erases all stored, DTC error,s.
so you had 2 DTC error before, my guess is due to pulling sensors key on, so pull the dome fuse but back and, drive 20miles and see if the codes come back , these steps here, same even on a new car, ! erasing errors.
We can also test each sensor on the car.
the ECU EFI has sensors that all work as team, if not it will not inject right at all.
that is what EFI is, electronic (calculated) injectors, using digital brain and simple analog sensors.
do not pull sensors running,
this only puts the ECU in limphome mode, and is not good for the engine or CAT, limphome ,
it retards spark (sucks fuel )
no idle controls (so forget posting idle in this mode, there IS NONE)
injections go huge rich, and mPG is like 15mpg/ HORRID, like some huge CHEVY Blazer sucking fuel with a V8, horrid fuel usage. in this mode.
best is to drive with the paper clip jumper in the DLC jack , with code12 (good) flashing then driver it, flog it hot. and then see if the codes change while driving, diagmode is safe to use keyon, idling and DRIVING, do so, to see problems.
that is all for now. do the tests?
G16kc (8v) or G16KV (16valve, 2 door, or 4 doors, 4wd or 2wd? ) use signature so all readers no not have to read all pages to find what drive train is there. post 6 8v. ok.
still doing same thing, please tell all the car (engine) does good and bad. under all conditions of hot and cold, ,idle speeds hot, driving, flat out, up hills and all that. all evidence matters, tell them all please. the good the bad and the ugly tells what's up.
its and old car. and was hacked, so maybe there are other hacks there, as is common, on old OBD1 cars, most folks any many mechanics cant understand.
OBD1 is long forgetting now,, very very few cars run like this now, ever seen and old toyota this old running perfect , not really.
it can be fixed, above is REALITIES of life, on all old cars.
why not start over, 92 tracker. it has a 5 speed .
8v valve engines.
what ECU is there,? 56B30? what/ matters too. what there, i can make a list, need one? a linear, accurate and logical list. in car work its called basics.
CAT still there.
EGR still there. all parts.
i can not see your car, and in seconds me seeing it see, 2 things, missing things, or super wrong part on car, or connected totally wrong.
no DTC codes? the ECU flashes code 12 running, after hot run , still running, not key'd off> use the jumper.
back. now
is engine compression good.? 160PSI wide open throttle? its and old engine, why not see it is ok, and not going to get worse soon. all old cars its best to start here.
then check spark timing, using the freeze jumper,
the ECU can go to limphome mode, so is MPG 15mpg or near 30mpg? limp = 15.
fuel pressure at spec.
Cat converter not melted, ,each line here is test and requisite tool. in this case a vacuum tool checks it this easy
fuel injector clogged. (from bad fuel, or hotwiring it, it can be damaged easy, it is a 1ohm coil there, and if you hot wire it and it gets hot, its will be damaged, so very easy, (ohms law, I= E/R or 12/1 , or 12amps, flows, hot wired, or 144watts and it burns to a crisp, that tiny coil. inside the injector or is INJURED, ever seen copper wire burn, the insulation off, its called magnet wire, and can be good, bad or DAMAGED, if damaged it can burn up the 10 ECU, put in. This is why we never hot wire any injector ever. or risk that folly above endlessly.
vacuum lines leaking will mess up the Map or cause excessive idle speeds,, hot RPM 800 RPM or some other wrong RPM.
this ECU , the dome fuse PULLED for 1min, erases all stored, DTC error,s.
so you had 2 DTC error before, my guess is due to pulling sensors key on, so pull the dome fuse but back and, drive 20miles and see if the codes come back , these steps here, same even on a new car, ! erasing errors.
We can also test each sensor on the car.
the ECU EFI has sensors that all work as team, if not it will not inject right at all.
that is what EFI is, electronic (calculated) injectors, using digital brain and simple analog sensors.
do not pull sensors running,
this only puts the ECU in limphome mode, and is not good for the engine or CAT, limphome ,
it retards spark (sucks fuel )
no idle controls (so forget posting idle in this mode, there IS NONE)
injections go huge rich, and mPG is like 15mpg/ HORRID, like some huge CHEVY Blazer sucking fuel with a V8, horrid fuel usage. in this mode.
best is to drive with the paper clip jumper in the DLC jack , with code12 (good) flashing then driver it, flog it hot. and then see if the codes change while driving, diagmode is safe to use keyon, idling and DRIVING, do so, to see problems.
that is all for now. do the tests?
(10-18-2017, 04:50 AM)gc73 Wrote: Been awhile since ive posted but still having same issue of poor rough running and lack of power and hesitation.
I sent my computer in to be repaired and it was reported to me that it had a bad injector circuit. thought great this was the problem will work good now. Nope. still doing same thing. i also ran 2 new wires to the injector like you suggested. This also did not help. The rig will run now with out the "hack wire" so we have made some progress. Could that hack wire have screwed up the injector itself?
any help is much appreciated.
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