08-29-2017, 11:15 PM
greetings and welcome !
bad idle. now power ,the motor is not strong, 5th proved that.
sure this is common complaint. both low power and wont idle correctly.
there are lots of things to check....
is this a barn found car?, when was last time it was a good daily driver, 1 month , 1year 3 or 10 years ago (bad fuel happens as does 10 micron screens clog up in the injectors. from same)
History matters if fuel was allowed to go bad, otherwise below is answers to why.
1: Full tune up with good spark wire set, cap/ rotor , right?
2: spark timing checked of way off the cam belt has slipped they do that at 60k miles. this car is not DIS, distrbutorless ignition its HUMAN SET , WE CHECK IT FIRST.
3: on all new kicks, (to the shop) check the crank front 17mm bolt, in 5th gear,hand brake set, wheels chocked, for CW thightend to 94ft/lbs, if found loose BINGO..
4: compress tests pass, this is first never before any MAF, or TPS or any sensor. EFI parts are LAST , engine is FIRST , call basics.
5: a stuck open EGR main valve, will kill idle dead, 400 rpm but will not wreck wideopen throttle. Performance. BUT I ALWAYS CHECK IT LIKE THIS COLD
REACH BEHIND #4 INTAKE RUNNER, SEE EGR MAIN, WITH INDEX FILTER, PUSH THE RING THERE ON THE Diaphragm. it goes in 1/4inch release it and it goes thunk if not its jammed. (BINGO)
if stuck closed ingore it for now, EGR is fixed LAST unless stuck open and if true its a NOW FIX first.
6: check engine lamp on, key on and out running, if not out running where is your scan data? DTC errors.?
7: cat melted, see my web page in the search box type cat tests.
end short list, low power and misfiring, Im sure it is, has 50 causes, may are bad engine, for sure if compression fails. that is way the actual engine is tested first.
on same page type in the search box compression
see
My 97' pulls 185 PSI min. dead cold. (a new head) later and hot it does 195 PSI. Old 100k mile engine, now with new oil rings, new crank and new head.
at sea level (500' actual) if not at sealevel I need to know that or use my altitude table to correct above. easy, ask
below is 150 is a sick engine, at SL.
all 4 weak and same means the belt slipped, 80PSI is common reading on that, with the belt ignored. this is because the crank cog out runs the the cam cog (slips) and then cam retards
this retarded cam then KILLS COMPRESSION DEAD and the full 95HP of the engine.
you get less than 1/2 power, with the belt slipped.
the spark is timed with the timing freeze jumper inserted in the DLC#2 connector under hood
many young mechanics never heard of OBD1 spark, ever.
if you dont freeze the timing the spark jumps like mad and confuses the young guys... so... do that.
if the spark is hugely retarded then the cam did slip.
You car is identical to 2 of mine, both restored.
http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html
spark ( fast track section) spark has many ways to fail but this shows setting it quickly)
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16v-pr...fast-track
bad idle. now power ,the motor is not strong, 5th proved that.
sure this is common complaint. both low power and wont idle correctly.
there are lots of things to check....
is this a barn found car?, when was last time it was a good daily driver, 1 month , 1year 3 or 10 years ago (bad fuel happens as does 10 micron screens clog up in the injectors. from same)
History matters if fuel was allowed to go bad, otherwise below is answers to why.
1: Full tune up with good spark wire set, cap/ rotor , right?
2: spark timing checked of way off the cam belt has slipped they do that at 60k miles. this car is not DIS, distrbutorless ignition its HUMAN SET , WE CHECK IT FIRST.
3: on all new kicks, (to the shop) check the crank front 17mm bolt, in 5th gear,hand brake set, wheels chocked, for CW thightend to 94ft/lbs, if found loose BINGO..
4: compress tests pass, this is first never before any MAF, or TPS or any sensor. EFI parts are LAST , engine is FIRST , call basics.
5: a stuck open EGR main valve, will kill idle dead, 400 rpm but will not wreck wideopen throttle. Performance. BUT I ALWAYS CHECK IT LIKE THIS COLD
REACH BEHIND #4 INTAKE RUNNER, SEE EGR MAIN, WITH INDEX FILTER, PUSH THE RING THERE ON THE Diaphragm. it goes in 1/4inch release it and it goes thunk if not its jammed. (BINGO)
if stuck closed ingore it for now, EGR is fixed LAST unless stuck open and if true its a NOW FIX first.
6: check engine lamp on, key on and out running, if not out running where is your scan data? DTC errors.?
7: cat melted, see my web page in the search box type cat tests.
end short list, low power and misfiring, Im sure it is, has 50 causes, may are bad engine, for sure if compression fails. that is way the actual engine is tested first.
on same page type in the search box compression
see
My 97' pulls 185 PSI min. dead cold. (a new head) later and hot it does 195 PSI. Old 100k mile engine, now with new oil rings, new crank and new head.
at sea level (500' actual) if not at sealevel I need to know that or use my altitude table to correct above. easy, ask
below is 150 is a sick engine, at SL.
all 4 weak and same means the belt slipped, 80PSI is common reading on that, with the belt ignored. this is because the crank cog out runs the the cam cog (slips) and then cam retards
this retarded cam then KILLS COMPRESSION DEAD and the full 95HP of the engine.
you get less than 1/2 power, with the belt slipped.
the spark is timed with the timing freeze jumper inserted in the DLC#2 connector under hood
many young mechanics never heard of OBD1 spark, ever.
if you dont freeze the timing the spark jumps like mad and confuses the young guys... so... do that.
if the spark is hugely retarded then the cam did slip.
You car is identical to 2 of mine, both restored.
http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html
spark ( fast track section) spark has many ways to fail but this shows setting it quickly)
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16v-pr...fast-track
http://www.fixkick.com