we need to start over.. my guess this is what is called a barn find car. (not a daily driver for years. i bet)
so it starts now. how old is the fuel, or how old was the fuel as you got it ? old fuel goes bad, and when it does the injector screens clog. 10 micron size screens 4 times smaller than the filter.
i think idle is last, it always is, all must be good for the engine ecu to regulate idle properly (many thing)
so
key on ,CEL must glow, if not fix this first. many barn cars have the lamp removed or taped black .
then insert the diagnostic jumper. in to the DLC jack near the battery.
key on it flashes 12s start engine , sill 12s.
the DLC is here.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/DiagJump.html
id have done a compression test day one, to see if the engine has a future. for sure.
compression testis here.
http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html
zero power based on all normal causes are:
1: lost compression , eg: 80psi (not 180 normal) is cam belt slipped. as all do after 60k miles. , tool. is a compression gauge.
2: low fuel pressure. (one more guage)
3: maf bad or just dirty. (look for DTC codes first bad maf)
4: injectors clogged.
5: someone played with the distributor and set timing way off, or caused by cam belt slipped, best is to do #1 first and not try to fix spark until cam is set right. or make it worse.
6; bad fuel. (barn found cars sure)
easy has test. we can to them and there is page for each
idle corrected last. (its like, deck chairs on the titanic, not arranged properly)
good luck.
so it starts now. how old is the fuel, or how old was the fuel as you got it ? old fuel goes bad, and when it does the injector screens clog. 10 micron size screens 4 times smaller than the filter.
i think idle is last, it always is, all must be good for the engine ecu to regulate idle properly (many thing)
so
key on ,CEL must glow, if not fix this first. many barn cars have the lamp removed or taped black .
then insert the diagnostic jumper. in to the DLC jack near the battery.
key on it flashes 12s start engine , sill 12s.
the DLC is here.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/DiagJump.html
id have done a compression test day one, to see if the engine has a future. for sure.
compression testis here.
http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html
zero power based on all normal causes are:
1: lost compression , eg: 80psi (not 180 normal) is cam belt slipped. as all do after 60k miles. , tool. is a compression gauge.
2: low fuel pressure. (one more guage)
3: maf bad or just dirty. (look for DTC codes first bad maf)
4: injectors clogged.
5: someone played with the distributor and set timing way off, or caused by cam belt slipped, best is to do #1 first and not try to fix spark until cam is set right. or make it worse.
6; bad fuel. (barn found cars sure)
easy has test. we can to them and there is page for each
idle corrected last. (its like, deck chairs on the titanic, not arranged properly)
good luck.
http://www.fixkick.com