NO "I" spoke marks, no "I" keys, good.
you said.?
is this the original cam, one that you saw run good once? or one that came with a rebuilt head.?
If the cam gear rear was pressed off during a cam regrind, my be it could be on wrong, ive never had to have mine pressed off
my last reground cam at Delta was never touched, at the gear.
as you can see if the cam is at 6pm the gear must align, and most not be off 1 tooth or the dizzy will be hard to time and get the base slot to fit.
the base only has , a little adjustment. so that dictates what can and can not work. as does the rotor tip landing in the field of the rotor gap.
i do not know if that gear , , but i see photo proof of it being pressed on and 2 index marks (only a cam shop would changes this)
there is and acid test.!
1: take some paint or liquid paper(my fav) or chock.
and lay a straight edge(ruler across the front cam cog, marking the #1 TDC exactly 180 from the E mark at the outer rim.
2: the turn the cam so that the new mark aligns perfectly with the top cam back pan mark (#4 during belt install)
now the cam is at true #1 firing. (regardless of the crank.)
3: if you cant get the rotor to aligned at 5BTDC and the rotor is not very close to center on the cap tower pin, (a normal gap there)
then the cam is no good. (gear)
put said mark here, at 6pm'
![[Image: sprocket1.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/sprocket1.jpg)
silly question. the cam cog above is not reversed is it?
I always do a compression test , the moment the head hits the block + lash +belt timing, this audit , lets me know i did it correct. (and that the cam guy did his job too.... hint hint)
way 2:
?
The cam gear was timed, day 1, in the factory.
see gear? and index?
find this cam notch, then on the gear find a gear titty mark, im sure it has one. they must align perfectly.!
do this only , IF the rotor is way off, using the cam top cog wheel only checks for TRUE TDC zero (if fail then look here)
IF not fail, then the crank pulley outer mark is wrong.
![[Image: 3_30_04_13_2_13_49.jpeg]](http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/gallery/3_30_04_13_2_13_49.jpeg)
you said.?
Quote:rotor indexed. to big flatQuestions.
cam E at 6pm ,
belt timed for #4 firing TDC cam cog 12pm)
an you said the cam belt likes 1 tooth off, that is a bad sign , as is the rotor deal. 2x bad signs.
is this the original cam, one that you saw run good once? or one that came with a rebuilt head.?
If the cam gear rear was pressed off during a cam regrind, my be it could be on wrong, ive never had to have mine pressed off
my last reground cam at Delta was never touched, at the gear.
as you can see if the cam is at 6pm the gear must align, and most not be off 1 tooth or the dizzy will be hard to time and get the base slot to fit.
the base only has , a little adjustment. so that dictates what can and can not work. as does the rotor tip landing in the field of the rotor gap.
i do not know if that gear , , but i see photo proof of it being pressed on and 2 index marks (only a cam shop would changes this)
there is and acid test.!
1: take some paint or liquid paper(my fav) or chock.
and lay a straight edge(ruler across the front cam cog, marking the #1 TDC exactly 180 from the E mark at the outer rim.
2: the turn the cam so that the new mark aligns perfectly with the top cam back pan mark (#4 during belt install)
now the cam is at true #1 firing. (regardless of the crank.)
3: if you cant get the rotor to aligned at 5BTDC and the rotor is not very close to center on the cap tower pin, (a normal gap there)
then the cam is no good. (gear)
put said mark here, at 6pm'
silly question. the cam cog above is not reversed is it?
I always do a compression test , the moment the head hits the block + lash +belt timing, this audit , lets me know i did it correct. (and that the cam guy did his job too.... hint hint)
way 2:
?
The cam gear was timed, day 1, in the factory.
see gear? and index?
find this cam notch, then on the gear find a gear titty mark, im sure it has one. they must align perfectly.!
do this only , IF the rotor is way off, using the cam top cog wheel only checks for TRUE TDC zero (if fail then look here)
IF not fail, then the crank pulley outer mark is wrong.
http://www.fixkick.com