10-22-2013, 08:58 PM
(This post was last modified: 10-22-2013, 09:03 PM by ORF-tracker.)
(10-22-2013, 12:38 AM)fixkick Wrote: my mail , notifications are busted, so did see this, sorry.
so dont pull the dome fuse, first read out the fail code, write it down and then clear the ECU by pulling the dome fuse. and post them, those DTCs.
that clicking is bad, and i have a clicking page, search clicking.
but is bad caps in ECU or the fuel pump is overloading the power supply 12v to the eCU.
the pump draws 4amps,
what to do is easy buy a rubber hose, and find all parts that click, by putting that hose to ear and getting other end near all relays under ECU, and at VSV solenoids right front of engine.
here is the link to my clicking page.
it sounds complex but is not
if the ecu power 12v is bad, (car body, wiring) then the ecu will in fact keep booting over and over, and each time all ecu acutuators click, the key word here is ALL or most, not just one.
see?
but if power is good and they click over and over that is a bad ecu.
on some years the 02 sensor wire shorts to the exhaust and bingo, slams power to the ECU. the 02 sensor pink wire goes to main ecu power blue-black , these 2 wires must never be allowed
to short. or the ECU will CRASH (reset and reboot)
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/clicking/clicking.html
the full schematic is here.
http://www.fixkick.com/look/91-complete.pdf
the bad ecu page, easy fix. new caps is here
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU.html
btw. if you car has never had the ECU looked at ever, that is , its still in its factory fresh state? no rebuild stickers,
then the caps must be looked at. all the rubicons failed, that year, so they are either original or replaced. only looking solves that riddle.
if some one put in new nichicons, in there , then they are good.
"Nichicon UPJ series, we'd not be reading this...." cut pasted here, caps come in grades, not just values.
(The ECU was OEM, never rebuilt, and had the infamous rubycon caps...)
Ive taken care of the clicking sound which was in the FP relay, it clicks now but only once or twice at key turn, I assume this is normal.
But after the FP relay replacement, car starts, the CEL remains ON, cant get code 12 or any codes, even after multiple battery disconnects and dome fuse removals.
No clicking at the relays in front of engine.
So I bought the 3 main caps you recommended from mouser and had a TV repair place install them. 2 of the caps were leaking.
Installed rebuilt ECU, car starts, but continues to smels rich out the tailpipe, and after warmup, continues to only idle at 400-500rpm. Still, CEL remains on, cant get any codes, even after multiple battery disconnects and dome fuse removals. I'm going to get a known good ECU to swap in and see if my old ECU is dying...
US Federal '91 Geo Tracker Softtop 1.6L 8V 2DR 4X4 3 spd auto CAMI RWAL A/C 152,000 miles
[size=small]US Federal '91 Geo Tracker Softtop 1.6L 8V 2DR 4X4 3 spd auto CAMI RWAL A/C 158,000 miles[/size]