90 tracker distributor vacuum advance bad idling issues

[fixkick]

April 26, 2017
TPS calibrated.
TPS Test Results:
CD idle = 0 ohms
CD full open = infinity
AD idle = 5.5k
BD idle = 0.5k
BD Full Open = 5.5k
looks ok, there,
the TPS calibration on any 89/90 USA with the NO WATER ISC actuator is very difficult the suzuki pages are on my site covering this
the reasons its hard, no bleed screw, so you have to adjust idle to 800 then set tps calib (with feeler gage) the set idle then the feeler gap over and over until its right, a ROYAL PAIN!
the main page is here
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/TPS-testing.html
the page from suzuki is here
http://www.fixkick.com/All-Pdfs/M89/TPS/...ation.html




Did not do live test can't find probes that don't damage wires. Where did you get yours Fixkick?

This is called back probing, one can use, 10cent leather sewing needles in a jam or buy them from Pomona, co. or
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AizTcrU5Egk

http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/NOID101.html#probe

with a set of alligator clips needles work.
you buy full meter probe kits with needles all ready there, at all time lead makers, like Pomona makes.. (oldest co. in calif that i buy from for 50 years)



TPS seemed to have been fully clockwise, possibly P.O.? (thats wrong)
if tps set wrong ,the car will hesitated at tip-in throttle. or idle speed regulation is dead.

Timing set 8° @ 800 RPM hot. Vacuum advance now operating.
Pointed laser thermometer at thermostat housing when hot = 180° - 200°
GOOD

TBI throat is very clean and moves freely, nothing blocking it.

Brake Booster did 300mm and held, however I could not make it go higher since my hose hook-ups are crude.
Should I re-test or the above number or good enough?

O2 sensor was replaced about 5 years ago, but, in the mean time I ran the car with a bad cat. for 4 years, last year I replaced complete exhaust system (manifold back) including the cat. Did the no cat kill the o2 sensor and now the o2 sensor is getting even with the cat? (my apologies for the bad humor)
love this humor, its great
the cat (if no smog tests) only needs to not be missing nor rodded out. it must have back pressure for EGR to work if EGR not needed then no cat needed.



This morning test drove it and started out at 1600 rpm and slowly climbed to 2100 rpm and then the surging began, 2100 to 1600 to 2100 to 1600 and so on. Should point out that the previous years when it did surge was about 40° humid and especially after running on the expressway but only did it a few times, this time since December of last year it hasn't stopped except when it gets over 70° then it behaves somewhat.


When it ran "right" it went through start up motions well, 2300 rpm after 7 seconds down to 1900 and slowly to 800rpm after a few miles. Lights raised the rpm by 100 or so, ps raised it another 100 or so and ac raisedt up 400 rpms. I did have to set idle after winter and after summer by about 100 rpms uf that kind of info helps.
I live in Chicago but hardly drive it in the winter or at least when there's no salt on the ground.

normal is 800 hot, and regulates there, its very accurate 800 the ECU actually counts crank turns, but can be 50 rpm off.
the dashpot fully retracts, so cold can be 2000 rpm or 1500 summer. (IAC rules)
at first start the Dash pot runs very fast RPM, then retracts in 3 to 7 seconds usually, longer in alaska.
the RPM is then dictated buy IAC util 150f water temp
when 150 or tad more is hit , ISC goes on line for 800 rpm.

that is how it works when working correctly
hot starts, 3 second Dash pot race then 800 now. all hot starts.


The ECu must see hot engine over 150f
the ECU must see idle switch closed.
all accessories off, or goes to race mode, 950? or 1000. no PS overloads. no AC or race mode is activated, (called idle up mode)
if those conditions are set idle is 800, rpm, near.
and will regulate. there,
if no regulation , then the ISC is bad or or you have vacuum leaKS.


YOU SAY SURGING,

SURGING MEANS ISC IS CONFUSED (or engine gross lean) there are only 2 causes. mostly.
WHEN DID THIS HAPPEN, FOOT ON THROTTLE OR OFF
IF ON , THEN THE TPS SWITICH IS FAILING.
WHEN YOU STEp on the throttle , the TPS idle switch goes to 5vdc.

the tps gap set is .086" and 0.094" on the automatic trans
so when you step on the throttle in .09" about the idle regulate ends at the speed of light (electron flow) and no surges possible after that .09" of foot motion. if it surge now the engine is grossly lean.