Ill answer in line :
The dreaded stalling and rough running is back. it is misfiring.
I took it out of storage a week ago today, (after how long):? 1 week 1 year, more?
drove about 200 miles of highway/city/light-offroad with 0 issues.
For example, I got stuck in some snow last sunday and It was idling for a good 2 hours PERFECTLY while I shoveled it out.
The new issues randomly appeared yesterday.
It all started when the transmission was hanging in 1st and 2nd(mostly).
I immediately stopped into an auto parts stop and checked my trans fluid, which was a little low (this was from when I replaced the TCC solenoid).
One quart brought it up to level, might need another ounce or two. (done hot, only, and in park, running , right>?) never overfill it.
Anyway, after I got home and it had cooled down I went to start it (2 hours later).
It started and stumbled, had to start it again(that is MISFIRE)
. I must also mention it is very humid and foggy today and yesterday. At this point it started roughly. It runs GREAT on the highway. It pulls like a train and can cruise at 75mph all day long.
try to know that if some failures and now dead smog parts, you can get more power, than stock, case in point unplug front 02 OXY and now it goes richer and you get more power but the cat burns up.(or shortens its life drastically)
the engines ok, it has good compression and full power, so is OK. what is not ok, is misfire. bad. that.
and EGR is always first, and for sure if idle is not 800 is it hot?
and for sure if engine stalls parked
and for sure engine loves to stall (hot) coming to a stop signal of any kind or way. as you come near a stop the ECU shuts the EGR off DEAD
on this car 0 mph , the EGR is also defeated. as does WOT, and CUT fuel mode in ECU.
So what the hell is wrong with this thing!?!?!?
Also, I have a p0400 code that comes after about 2 runs on the highway. (it runs 2 tests, A: cruise test, and B, cut fuel test)
Catalyst monitor won't complete. (that is correct the new ECU will not run P421 cat checks if other primary test fail, that includes, 02 failures of ANY kind)
the cat test is last , forget it for now.... fix misfire, you cant run most tests with misfire.
p0400 seems to fail the test that doesn't involve stopping. It illuminates when coasting down a hill on the highway. I have a good CDN ECU from a 1997 sidekick. Can I use this to cheat on my p0400 light? haha :p ( the CANada ecu only hides the CEL lamp coming on, the P0400 will still store"set")
my EGR page covers all ways it can fail
test one is the stall tests.
(its really 2 tests or 3 in one 1 test)
its burn fingers test, so use gloves or hand vacuum tool
here it is 1 by1.
1: cold engine i press the egr diapharm ring in, 1/4 of an inch (6mm) that is all it goes. even new
if it is stuck then the EGR is stuck, (bad or just packed in carbon, clean it now)
2: ok it moves, and will do so with 8 "inches HG vacuum now. cold engine off
3: ok, hot tests, gloves or with hand tool, suck 8"iches HG on the nipple on main EGR
engine goes to 400 rpm or stalls, if no change, the EGR pathes are blocked.
(if you get this far tell me, and we can go to end point easy.)
4: sure EGR sticks open stalls parked or at low speeds and for sure just before coming to stop.
5: fuel pressure wrong, most of these cars the FPR is END OF LIFE NOW, they can stick closed, easy worn, and it will flood fuel and misfire badly.
it can be tested, seem my FPR page. It gets tortured every time you move right foot, due to vacuum changes, its pure FPR torture....
6: leaking injectors, try techron fuel additive, i hate additives but this one works, and is safe, and not snake oil. some types bad other useless/harmless.
7: maf stuck high , but no so high as to set DTC MAF.
8: injector balance test fail (a hard long test ) (last resort test)
9: a missing tuneup, no you did it. spark and filters.
10: bad fuel. or old fuel bad mixed with good. from long term storage of car or fuel. or someone put in some diesel there. ouch.
11: MAKE SURE car runs ok with gas cap off or way loose. (proves its not vacuum caused, with a bad or wrong cap there) but causes bogging not misfire.
Misfire codes DTC P0300 or P030x codes may take 2 or 3 trips to set, never just 1 trip, due to silly OBD2 rules.
but if i had it id drive it 3 times fast, hot, and 20 + miles.
then if it misfired, it stop and scan it,
lets say , only P0302 fails every time and never any others for sure.
then injector 2 has issues. (im sure not #2 valves are not sticking hot )
one can swap spark 1 and 2
then swap injector 1 and 2, to see if problem follows parts.
I'm a little confused about what "removing the egr means" when you stick a golf tee in. where exactly does it go? I'm hoping it's egr related. http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/EGR/96-EGR-map.jpg [b](what number?)[/b]
sorry, the golf tee (or screw) plugs the hose to it cant suck air and cause LEAN OUT, (maf engines do not like vacuum leaks)
the hose goes to the EGR nipple, one pulls hose , then golf tee's the hose end.
the makes 100% sure the EGR valve (main is closed) if for sure closed, now, then you drive car, if misfire is gone now, then you know
the EGR cause that.
if not , not. (this i call the temporary EGR defeat test for diagnosis only)
Anyway, could a egr code even cause my tracker to shudder and stall at low speeds. yes, if its sticks wide open. sure.
the EGR valve opens in linear actions based on engine load. (takes a CAT to do that, the cat backpressure , tells the EGR how much EGR flow to use)
Misfire has many causes over 50 but in Physics and with tools just a few.
1: engine bad, (no its not) nice to check that off ,no>? and the 30 + causes there. sure.
2: bad spark,
Just this morning it shut off and I had to restart twice while backing into a parking space at work. Sometimes the RPMS drop so low that the check engine light and oil light come on as if the key is just in the on position and it catches itself again.
So here is what I have done in about march while it was still in storage:
-Spark plugs (gapped to .028")
-PCV valve
-Air filter
-Dist Cap
-Dist rotor
-Repaired exhaust manifold crack (done properly. drilled, preheated, nickle rods, cooldown, also put exhaust putty over weld) (WOW , love to see you do that for sure, you are my student, I love to see folks actually fix cast iron and amazing skill set of all)
-Upstream o2 sensor
-cleaned the Idle air control valve.
-swapped in the IACV, TPS (whole throttle plate actually, didn't want to mess up TPS) from good working vehicle (The ones that came off mine also worked well on the donor vehicle)
Also did a compression test (#'d from front to back)
- 1=190psi
- 2=180psi
- 3=180psi
- 4=185psi
Since then I have also:
- 8120 NGK blue ignition wires as per your suggestion, yes, MAG wires , and this engine love each other (suzuki spark is weak)
- wix fuel filter
- replaced TCC solenoid and o-rings after testing the electrical (It locks up everytime at 47 now
YAY) NICE WORK !!!
- cleaned all vacuum lines are ports related to EGR/modulator. Including the bend behind the freeze plug. How clean do these have to be by the way. It's not perfect but I can stick a brush through.
Id defeat Egr first. (after 100% sure its closed cold)
then test, drive.
The dreaded stalling and rough running is back. it is misfiring.
I took it out of storage a week ago today, (after how long):? 1 week 1 year, more?
drove about 200 miles of highway/city/light-offroad with 0 issues.
For example, I got stuck in some snow last sunday and It was idling for a good 2 hours PERFECTLY while I shoveled it out.
The new issues randomly appeared yesterday.
It all started when the transmission was hanging in 1st and 2nd(mostly).
I immediately stopped into an auto parts stop and checked my trans fluid, which was a little low (this was from when I replaced the TCC solenoid).
One quart brought it up to level, might need another ounce or two. (done hot, only, and in park, running , right>?) never overfill it.
Anyway, after I got home and it had cooled down I went to start it (2 hours later).
It started and stumbled, had to start it again(that is MISFIRE)
. I must also mention it is very humid and foggy today and yesterday. At this point it started roughly. It runs GREAT on the highway. It pulls like a train and can cruise at 75mph all day long.
try to know that if some failures and now dead smog parts, you can get more power, than stock, case in point unplug front 02 OXY and now it goes richer and you get more power but the cat burns up.(or shortens its life drastically)
the engines ok, it has good compression and full power, so is OK. what is not ok, is misfire. bad. that.
and EGR is always first, and for sure if idle is not 800 is it hot?
and for sure if engine stalls parked
and for sure engine loves to stall (hot) coming to a stop signal of any kind or way. as you come near a stop the ECU shuts the EGR off DEAD
on this car 0 mph , the EGR is also defeated. as does WOT, and CUT fuel mode in ECU.
So what the hell is wrong with this thing!?!?!?
Also, I have a p0400 code that comes after about 2 runs on the highway. (it runs 2 tests, A: cruise test, and B, cut fuel test)
Catalyst monitor won't complete. (that is correct the new ECU will not run P421 cat checks if other primary test fail, that includes, 02 failures of ANY kind)
the cat test is last , forget it for now.... fix misfire, you cant run most tests with misfire.
p0400 seems to fail the test that doesn't involve stopping. It illuminates when coasting down a hill on the highway. I have a good CDN ECU from a 1997 sidekick. Can I use this to cheat on my p0400 light? haha :p ( the CANada ecu only hides the CEL lamp coming on, the P0400 will still store"set")
my EGR page covers all ways it can fail
test one is the stall tests.
(its really 2 tests or 3 in one 1 test)
its burn fingers test, so use gloves or hand vacuum tool
here it is 1 by1.
1: cold engine i press the egr diapharm ring in, 1/4 of an inch (6mm) that is all it goes. even new
if it is stuck then the EGR is stuck, (bad or just packed in carbon, clean it now)
2: ok it moves, and will do so with 8 "inches HG vacuum now. cold engine off
3: ok, hot tests, gloves or with hand tool, suck 8"iches HG on the nipple on main EGR
engine goes to 400 rpm or stalls, if no change, the EGR pathes are blocked.
(if you get this far tell me, and we can go to end point easy.)
4: sure EGR sticks open stalls parked or at low speeds and for sure just before coming to stop.
5: fuel pressure wrong, most of these cars the FPR is END OF LIFE NOW, they can stick closed, easy worn, and it will flood fuel and misfire badly.
it can be tested, seem my FPR page. It gets tortured every time you move right foot, due to vacuum changes, its pure FPR torture....
6: leaking injectors, try techron fuel additive, i hate additives but this one works, and is safe, and not snake oil. some types bad other useless/harmless.
7: maf stuck high , but no so high as to set DTC MAF.
8: injector balance test fail (a hard long test ) (last resort test)
9: a missing tuneup, no you did it. spark and filters.
10: bad fuel. or old fuel bad mixed with good. from long term storage of car or fuel. or someone put in some diesel there. ouch.
11: MAKE SURE car runs ok with gas cap off or way loose. (proves its not vacuum caused, with a bad or wrong cap there) but causes bogging not misfire.
Misfire codes DTC P0300 or P030x codes may take 2 or 3 trips to set, never just 1 trip, due to silly OBD2 rules.
but if i had it id drive it 3 times fast, hot, and 20 + miles.
then if it misfired, it stop and scan it,
lets say , only P0302 fails every time and never any others for sure.
then injector 2 has issues. (im sure not #2 valves are not sticking hot )
one can swap spark 1 and 2
then swap injector 1 and 2, to see if problem follows parts.
I'm a little confused about what "removing the egr means" when you stick a golf tee in. where exactly does it go? I'm hoping it's egr related. http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/EGR/96-EGR-map.jpg [b](what number?)[/b]
sorry, the golf tee (or screw) plugs the hose to it cant suck air and cause LEAN OUT, (maf engines do not like vacuum leaks)
the hose goes to the EGR nipple, one pulls hose , then golf tee's the hose end.
the makes 100% sure the EGR valve (main is closed) if for sure closed, now, then you drive car, if misfire is gone now, then you know
the EGR cause that.
if not , not. (this i call the temporary EGR defeat test for diagnosis only)
Anyway, could a egr code even cause my tracker to shudder and stall at low speeds. yes, if its sticks wide open. sure.
the EGR valve opens in linear actions based on engine load. (takes a CAT to do that, the cat backpressure , tells the EGR how much EGR flow to use)
Misfire has many causes over 50 but in Physics and with tools just a few.
1: engine bad, (no its not) nice to check that off ,no>? and the 30 + causes there. sure.
2: bad spark,
Just this morning it shut off and I had to restart twice while backing into a parking space at work. Sometimes the RPMS drop so low that the check engine light and oil light come on as if the key is just in the on position and it catches itself again.
So here is what I have done in about march while it was still in storage:
-Spark plugs (gapped to .028")
-PCV valve
-Air filter
-Dist Cap
-Dist rotor
-Repaired exhaust manifold crack (done properly. drilled, preheated, nickle rods, cooldown, also put exhaust putty over weld) (WOW , love to see you do that for sure, you are my student, I love to see folks actually fix cast iron and amazing skill set of all)
-Upstream o2 sensor
-cleaned the Idle air control valve.
-swapped in the IACV, TPS (whole throttle plate actually, didn't want to mess up TPS) from good working vehicle (The ones that came off mine also worked well on the donor vehicle)
Also did a compression test (#'d from front to back)
- 1=190psi
- 2=180psi
- 3=180psi
- 4=185psi
Since then I have also:
- 8120 NGK blue ignition wires as per your suggestion, yes, MAG wires , and this engine love each other (suzuki spark is weak)
- wix fuel filter
- replaced TCC solenoid and o-rings after testing the electrical (It locks up everytime at 47 now
YAY) NICE WORK !!!- cleaned all vacuum lines are ports related to EGR/modulator. Including the bend behind the freeze plug. How clean do these have to be by the way. It's not perfect but I can stick a brush through.
Id defeat Egr first. (after 100% sure its closed cold)
then test, drive.
http://www.fixkick.com