02-24-2017, 02:02 AM
You are very technical fixkick, so I will try my best to keep up. I'll address what you've said so far best I can. I'm about to go back at it after some lunch.
or EGR sticking open (the stall test works, but defeat it until we fix it,, remove that vacuum line to it, main valve, and Golf TEE the hose so it cant suck air.
make sure the main valve is closed and can not leak exhaust at all.
or ISC sticking. electric. iAC clean with safe cleaners for plastics.
I'll try the egr today, and golf tee the vacuum hose and post results
i spark timing ok? with timing freeze jump inserted hot?)
fuel pressure at spec, the FPR love to fail at this age.
I'm not sure how to check spark timing, what is a freeze jump? I can borrow a timing gun if that's what you mean.
stumbles.?
why not put a set of new, BOSCH mag wires on it?, , this is like the best thing you can do ,for weak spark suzuki.!!!!!
BOSCH 16valve = # 09360 ,or : # NGK8120 or beck
chasing bad spark is impossible, cant burn fuel with bad spark. so,,, (knock off that DUCK 1 , now, IMHO )
I ordered NGK8120 back on feb 3rd, should be here today/tomorrow (they are in halifax now, big storms slowed delivery down)
what is on the road, performance". (ok or ,stumbles?. is WOT good up hills ok,. accel ok?
excellent, quicker than I expected a 1.6L 4 would ever be. NO MISSING at all when WOT just power, pulls great. I've had it on the highway for 15+ miles at 70mph and it was fine even when this issue first came up.
my guess, is it starved for fuel or flooded. (not starve for aiir) id have used a hot right foot to prevent stall, can you ?, easy ,hard, or impossible)
keep in mind the human driving is just and effective ISC as the real ISC ,you can add air at any time with right foot.
Yes, If I give it throttle while shifting into park or neutral it will not stall. The stall can always be saved by applying more throttle. But that's not how this is supposed to work, and I'm too slow to save the stall many times.
In my mind, you take the load off the engine and it stalls, I think that is impossible. but as we see NOT. what is that.?
The progression, of events(P/N means park /neutral)
The TRANNY P/N switch tells the PCM hey PCM no need for in gear idle profiles (aggressive) back to neutral/park profile via that PCM /TCM park wire input.
Yes, when the load comes off the engine it stalls. It stalls from gear to park/neutral, but also when you let off the throttle while crawling in gear (see video, 7th from top). Is there a way to test these signals? Could the aggressive idle profiles for gear be flooding out the more relaxed P/N profiles?
1: crank pulley at 94ft/lbs ,that 17mm nut, with a/t box, most these cars, nobody reads the TSB on this or fails to do it know knowing how to lock a flywheel
I plan to check this when I do the timing belt which is coming in the mail with the NGK wires. I've been working my way through your 60k service article.
next'up, you have 2 door, did you know that all 2 doors, sufferer from (bad fuel pump ground) seems so, and with salt belt roads , 10x this.
I have a page for that too. and the under hood fuse boxes from H3LL same reasons
see G402? (ground)
I'll clean this up today
more simple fixes checks on G16bs all.
does engine stumble with gas cap in hand?
does rapping the MAP at idle. change RPM (screw driver bland in hand rap MAF with handle gently,taP ,tap? must not change rpm hot engine'
ever clean maf (from 6" afar , never close using maf cleaner spray?_
is that main induction pipe (top big) free of all air leaks, look closed check it carefully.
no new fuel filter.?
I'll try the MAP out today, MAF has been cleaned with Contact cleaner (light spray), top induction pipe is tight, fuel filter was done by P.O., have receipt for work done at a shop. I have another brand new high quality one coming in the mail along with the NGK wires and timing belt kit for piece of mind.
I'm going to try test the fuel pressure today or tomorrow, it seems like the logical next step. I'm at sea level. I've gone over the vacuum lines 100 times now. they are all perfect.
video 6? is horrid, sounds like the engine trying to start backwards, as in spark timing way the hell wrong. timing belt slip , do that standard spark test? with the gun?
its struggling like heck here.
lack of air (isc stick closed hot) add 5% throttle here, start easy now???????? use that right foot to simulate a good ISC.
My compression is at least 180psi after a 5 minute warm up, dry. Timing must be good no? If I use my right foot to start it will start and catch at first flick of the key
at that last videos saw 800 fail. and the PCM went to hunt mode (or lean bog)
and id press throttle now, if i can hit 800 to 1000, easy,, then we know its starving for air, and the duty cycle was set wrong by the bad man....lol
if that is all true.then unscrew the bleed. fix it? 800 now. PRNDL, shift,and all positions give 800.? HOT all this is HOT. only
that is what i think, based on videos only.
Not sure if you mean the very last video posted, but that is actually my rusty parts sidekick, with my IAC, TPS, #1 injector and plug wire on it. As you can see it doesn't stumble or stall when shifting. This sidekick is rusted to bits and has a forever p0102 and p0463 code. runs good though (but high idle).
ever do this.
unbolt the distributor basebolt ever, if yes, when and why.
answer no:
connect the timing lamp, strobe.#1 spark lead
hot engines
idling ok
timing freeze jumper in place.(all years covered,i hope here)
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/IGN-FREEZE.HTML
point to the scale on Tbelt cover, 0 mark is 0 degrees. to the left is advanced, some are 5deg BTDC others 8. (canada?)(hood sticker on ours tells this secret)
if timing is way off?, or way retarded, the cam belt slipped.
double trouble that.
means all else above is wasted effort (cept that 17mm crank bolt)
I've never touched the distributor, except for the cap and rotor. The problem was there before I touched that. The Distributor and many other parts on this vehicle have tamper proof paint on them around the bolts/screws. So I don't think it's ever been messed with. I'll fiddle with the jumper today/tomorrow and see if I can get a timing light.
Thanks for all your help today, I'll report back with more updates. Please reply if you want anymore videos or pictures of certain situations/parts
or EGR sticking open (the stall test works, but defeat it until we fix it,, remove that vacuum line to it, main valve, and Golf TEE the hose so it cant suck air.
make sure the main valve is closed and can not leak exhaust at all.
or ISC sticking. electric. iAC clean with safe cleaners for plastics.
I'll try the egr today, and golf tee the vacuum hose and post results
i spark timing ok? with timing freeze jump inserted hot?)
fuel pressure at spec, the FPR love to fail at this age.
I'm not sure how to check spark timing, what is a freeze jump? I can borrow a timing gun if that's what you mean.
stumbles.?
why not put a set of new, BOSCH mag wires on it?, , this is like the best thing you can do ,for weak spark suzuki.!!!!!
BOSCH 16valve = # 09360 ,or : # NGK8120 or beck
chasing bad spark is impossible, cant burn fuel with bad spark. so,,, (knock off that DUCK 1 , now, IMHO )
I ordered NGK8120 back on feb 3rd, should be here today/tomorrow (they are in halifax now, big storms slowed delivery down)
what is on the road, performance". (ok or ,stumbles?. is WOT good up hills ok,. accel ok?
excellent, quicker than I expected a 1.6L 4 would ever be. NO MISSING at all when WOT just power, pulls great. I've had it on the highway for 15+ miles at 70mph and it was fine even when this issue first came up.
my guess, is it starved for fuel or flooded. (not starve for aiir) id have used a hot right foot to prevent stall, can you ?, easy ,hard, or impossible)
keep in mind the human driving is just and effective ISC as the real ISC ,you can add air at any time with right foot.
Yes, If I give it throttle while shifting into park or neutral it will not stall. The stall can always be saved by applying more throttle. But that's not how this is supposed to work, and I'm too slow to save the stall many times.
In my mind, you take the load off the engine and it stalls, I think that is impossible. but as we see NOT. what is that.?
The progression, of events(P/N means park /neutral)
The TRANNY P/N switch tells the PCM hey PCM no need for in gear idle profiles (aggressive) back to neutral/park profile via that PCM /TCM park wire input.
Yes, when the load comes off the engine it stalls. It stalls from gear to park/neutral, but also when you let off the throttle while crawling in gear (see video, 7th from top). Is there a way to test these signals? Could the aggressive idle profiles for gear be flooding out the more relaxed P/N profiles?
1: crank pulley at 94ft/lbs ,that 17mm nut, with a/t box, most these cars, nobody reads the TSB on this or fails to do it know knowing how to lock a flywheel
I plan to check this when I do the timing belt which is coming in the mail with the NGK wires. I've been working my way through your 60k service article.
next'up, you have 2 door, did you know that all 2 doors, sufferer from (bad fuel pump ground) seems so, and with salt belt roads , 10x this.
I have a page for that too. and the under hood fuse boxes from H3LL same reasons
see G402? (ground)
I'll clean this up today
more simple fixes checks on G16bs all.
does engine stumble with gas cap in hand?
does rapping the MAP at idle. change RPM (screw driver bland in hand rap MAF with handle gently,taP ,tap? must not change rpm hot engine'
ever clean maf (from 6" afar , never close using maf cleaner spray?_
is that main induction pipe (top big) free of all air leaks, look closed check it carefully.
no new fuel filter.?
I'll try the MAP out today, MAF has been cleaned with Contact cleaner (light spray), top induction pipe is tight, fuel filter was done by P.O., have receipt for work done at a shop. I have another brand new high quality one coming in the mail along with the NGK wires and timing belt kit for piece of mind.
I'm going to try test the fuel pressure today or tomorrow, it seems like the logical next step. I'm at sea level. I've gone over the vacuum lines 100 times now. they are all perfect.
video 6? is horrid, sounds like the engine trying to start backwards, as in spark timing way the hell wrong. timing belt slip , do that standard spark test? with the gun?
its struggling like heck here.
lack of air (isc stick closed hot) add 5% throttle here, start easy now???????? use that right foot to simulate a good ISC.
My compression is at least 180psi after a 5 minute warm up, dry. Timing must be good no? If I use my right foot to start it will start and catch at first flick of the key
at that last videos saw 800 fail. and the PCM went to hunt mode (or lean bog)
and id press throttle now, if i can hit 800 to 1000, easy,, then we know its starving for air, and the duty cycle was set wrong by the bad man....lol
if that is all true.then unscrew the bleed. fix it? 800 now. PRNDL, shift,and all positions give 800.? HOT all this is HOT. only
that is what i think, based on videos only.
Not sure if you mean the very last video posted, but that is actually my rusty parts sidekick, with my IAC, TPS, #1 injector and plug wire on it. As you can see it doesn't stumble or stall when shifting. This sidekick is rusted to bits and has a forever p0102 and p0463 code. runs good though (but high idle).
ever do this.
unbolt the distributor basebolt ever, if yes, when and why.
answer no:
connect the timing lamp, strobe.#1 spark lead
hot engines
idling ok
timing freeze jumper in place.(all years covered,i hope here)
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/IGN-FREEZE.HTML
point to the scale on Tbelt cover, 0 mark is 0 degrees. to the left is advanced, some are 5deg BTDC others 8. (canada?)(hood sticker on ours tells this secret)
if timing is way off?, or way retarded, the cam belt slipped.
double trouble that.
means all else above is wasted effort (cept that 17mm crank bolt)
I've never touched the distributor, except for the cap and rotor. The problem was there before I touched that. The Distributor and many other parts on this vehicle have tamper proof paint on them around the bolts/screws. So I don't think it's ever been messed with. I'll fiddle with the jumper today/tomorrow and see if I can get a timing light.
Thanks for all your help today, I'll report back with more updates. Please reply if you want anymore videos or pictures of certain situations/parts