02-23-2017, 11:36 PM
VIDEO 1 , SCAN WHEN IT DOES THAT. SEE WHY?
VIDEO 2, SHOWS ENGINE SEEMS to have full power
vidoe 3, shows to Neutral stall , scan it as it did that/ right foot save it? shows to me idle controls dead. here. TPS not calibrated?
video 4: EGR test seems ok
video 5 , 1/2 hour video, my wifi goes tits up.
, engine temp hidden.. but we see it go to idle controls active and 800rpm(spec) about 16min idle goes out of control,TPS fails(idle switch)is throttle cable not set to12mm slack spec?
that scan is, omg wonky toy. 4.5maf what in the world is that.? 4.5vdc is bad maf, 4.5gr/sec (spec ilde is 1.5–4.0 grams per second)
zero tps, (a real scan tool ) shows this as, % throttle angle and raw volts. 0 is crazy. imo. but who knows, whats in that toy,
186f ECT, we have a winner on ECT and thermostat !!!
14.1v the alternator is NOT dead, good.
55f air temp, IAT, seems ok for your local weather
FPR is uselss on this car
the GPH, 0.23 is injector rates, nice feature but is based off closed loop modes and fuel trim.
11 degrees advance, . 11 from 5 ? or 11 total, only the tool maker knows. most tools do the math this way static 8 + 3 added =11.
seems ok there, but does 3000 rpm in park go to like 35degrees, ? as it should? no load on engine, advance is super aggressive.
video 6? is horrid, sounds like the engine trying to start backwards, as in spark timing way the hell wrong. timing belt slip , do that standard spark test? with the gun?
its struggling like heck here.
lack of air (isc stick closed hot) add 5% throttle here, start easy now???????? use that right foot to simulate a good ISC.
flooding
when it does start, the idle is wrong. it must go to like 1500 rpm then drop to 800 and hold like a rock
for sure that is gross misfiring, spark wires bad>?
is think i see the PCM hunt the ISC here, but can not hit 800 so it hunts, as all old kicks do, if it cant hits spec, hot RPMl (illegal today to hunt, ask toyota?)
so my guess is
TPS not calibrated
50% duty cycle is way off... and ISC can not hit, 800rpm hot. so open the bleed screw,say 1/2 turn CCW.
ok ilde controls are all wrong
but that is normal on a bad running engine,after IDLE controls are last thing to work right and last thing to calibrate.
TPS idle switch no closed
in limphome CEL glowing
someone screwed the idle bleed all the way in, evil that, it's duty cycle setting to 50% we turn the screw at 800rpm hot for the duty check hitting 50%
its ok to unscrew it to see if the ISC wakes, up, just count turns.. and s a waste time, in limphome or TPS switch not closed
at that last videos saw 800 fail. and the PCM went to hunt mode (or lean bog)
and id press throttle now, if i can hit 800 to 1000, easy,, then we know its starving for air, and the duty cycle was set wrong by the bad man....lol
if that is all true.then unscrew the bleed. fix it? 800 now. PRNDL, shift,and all positions give 800.? HOT all this is HOT. only
that is what i think, based on videos only.
VIDEO 2, SHOWS ENGINE SEEMS to have full power
vidoe 3, shows to Neutral stall , scan it as it did that/ right foot save it? shows to me idle controls dead. here. TPS not calibrated?
video 4: EGR test seems ok
video 5 , 1/2 hour video, my wifi goes tits up.
, engine temp hidden.. but we see it go to idle controls active and 800rpm(spec) about 16min idle goes out of control,TPS fails(idle switch)is throttle cable not set to12mm slack spec?
that scan is, omg wonky toy. 4.5maf what in the world is that.? 4.5vdc is bad maf, 4.5gr/sec (spec ilde is 1.5–4.0 grams per second)
zero tps, (a real scan tool ) shows this as, % throttle angle and raw volts. 0 is crazy. imo. but who knows, whats in that toy,
186f ECT, we have a winner on ECT and thermostat !!!
14.1v the alternator is NOT dead, good.
55f air temp, IAT, seems ok for your local weather
FPR is uselss on this car
the GPH, 0.23 is injector rates, nice feature but is based off closed loop modes and fuel trim.
11 degrees advance, . 11 from 5 ? or 11 total, only the tool maker knows. most tools do the math this way static 8 + 3 added =11.
seems ok there, but does 3000 rpm in park go to like 35degrees, ? as it should? no load on engine, advance is super aggressive.
video 6? is horrid, sounds like the engine trying to start backwards, as in spark timing way the hell wrong. timing belt slip , do that standard spark test? with the gun?
its struggling like heck here.
lack of air (isc stick closed hot) add 5% throttle here, start easy now???????? use that right foot to simulate a good ISC.
flooding
when it does start, the idle is wrong. it must go to like 1500 rpm then drop to 800 and hold like a rock
for sure that is gross misfiring, spark wires bad>?
is think i see the PCM hunt the ISC here, but can not hit 800 so it hunts, as all old kicks do, if it cant hits spec, hot RPMl (illegal today to hunt, ask toyota?)
so my guess is
TPS not calibrated
50% duty cycle is way off... and ISC can not hit, 800rpm hot. so open the bleed screw,say 1/2 turn CCW.
ok ilde controls are all wrong
but that is normal on a bad running engine,after IDLE controls are last thing to work right and last thing to calibrate.
TPS idle switch no closed
in limphome CEL glowing
someone screwed the idle bleed all the way in, evil that, it's duty cycle setting to 50% we turn the screw at 800rpm hot for the duty check hitting 50%
its ok to unscrew it to see if the ISC wakes, up, just count turns.. and s a waste time, in limphome or TPS switch not closed
at that last videos saw 800 fail. and the PCM went to hunt mode (or lean bog)
and id press throttle now, if i can hit 800 to 1000, easy,, then we know its starving for air, and the duty cycle was set wrong by the bad man....lol
if that is all true.then unscrew the bleed. fix it? 800 now. PRNDL, shift,and all positions give 800.? HOT all this is HOT. only
that is what i think, based on videos only.
http://www.fixkick.com