stumbles.?
why not put a set of new, BOSCH mag wires on it?, , this is like the best thing you can do ,for weak spark suzuki.!!!!!
BOSCH 16valve = # 09360 ,or : # NGK8120 or beck
chasing bad spark is impossible, cant burn fuel with bad spark. so,,, (knock off that DUCK 1 , now, IMHO )
what is on the road, performance". (ok or ,stumbles?. is WOT good up hills ok,. accel ok?
When i saw D>N or R> N gear shift STALLS, I was GOBSMACKEd,! If face palm"
In my mind, you take the load off the engine and it stalls, I think that is impossible. but as we see NOT. what is that.?
The progression, of events(P/N means park /neutral)
The TRANNY P/N switch tells the PCM hey PCM no need for in gear idle profiles (aggressive) back to neutral/park profile via that PCM /TCM park wire input.
This PCM then goes to idle profile, in P/N mode out of gear mode. and regulates, idle at 800.rpm (ac/off)
so what can cause that, turns out not many.
classic failure 1:
#1 is TPS idle switch is not calibrated nor closed and at 0v at idle, (are the TV cables set 12mm slack ( per spec?)
ISC stuck (electr, iac) stuck but how, it was wide open (near) in Drive. how can it close more (does that going Neutral) and goes to far and sticks closed, seem "crazy"nahhhhhhh
my guess, is it starved for fuel or flooded. (not starve for aiir) id have used a hot right foot to prevent stall, can you ?, easy ,hard, or impossible)
keep in mind the human driving is just and effective ISC as the real ISC ,you can add air at any time with right foot.
before i discuss, EFI, lets to Day1 checks on all sidekicks\
1: crank pulley at 94ft/lbs ,that 17mm nut, with a/t box, most these cars, nobody reads the TSB on this or fails to do it know knowing how to lock a flywheel
none the the less, lots of engines sitting in barn, wrecked (crank snout destroyed)
my page just for that silly 17mm bolt is here, allways from SUnday
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/myclutch/f...locks.html
next'up, you have 2 door, did you know that all 2 doors, sufferer from (bad fuel pump ground) seems so, and with salt belt roads , 10x this.
I have a page for that too. and the under hood fuse boxes from H3LL same reasons
see G402? (ground)
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/PUMP/de....html#G402
H3LL: photo 1 here
http://www.fixkick.com/electrical-failure.html
more simple fixes checks on G16bs all.
does engine stumble with gas cap in hand?
does rapping the MAP at idle. change RPM (screw driver bland in hand rap MAF with handle gently,taP ,tap? must not change rpm hot engine'
ever clean maf (from 6" afar , never close using maf cleaner spray?_
is that main induction pipe (top big) free of all air leaks, look closed check it carefully.
no new fuel filter.?
if engine is good, seems so (if spark timing not off cam belt did not slip)
if sparks good, Mag wires do that,
then its EFI
EFI needs things in this order, to function correctly
1: fuel pressure at spec. 30-37 PSI idle. (lower # is at higher altitudes) and at WOT, it drops about 6psi, from idle. if not FPR is shot. end story
2: MAF is ok, its the key stone part, if good all is good mostly... it sets all fuel rates. all the time,02 trims
3: at idle,stumbles only small vacuum leaks.? even vac chose cracks, cracks suck are and engine goes lean. and stubles.
at high RPM the small cracks are hidden, mostly
4
tart engine ,it reaches 180f fast, say few miles,. some take 20 miles and are bad, some never reach 180f ever, and all are bad
5:ECt matches, 180f, scanned. hot. does it? so easy to do on any scan tool.. bam 180, mines 195, better mpg there. 1/2mpg? but engine loves it. AS DOES COOLING IN THE RAD CORE.
6: IAT is not very important, in fact 2 years, have nonE. 92/93'
7: o2 is not it, its off line,accelerating.....
8: i see the CEL glowing all the time if yes, the PCM will be in limphome and guess what idle controls are shut down in limphome, fix that first, do not ignore the CEL,, 740s is trans, p07xxx are all trans and not engine.
9: scan the car as it fails, collect ,DTC ERRORS, PENDINGS, FREEZE FRAME DATA AND IF CAN' LIVE PID SENSOR DATA.
that is all for this morning
ill try to get all videos to play, and not stall today.
and wait for you driving report, tell all it does ok, and now ok, hot .cold,engine, and all gears,or flat ground on hills and WOT.
i call that the good the bad and the ugly,paints a total picture of whats going on
good luck!
links to mag, there many but i see sales on bosch all the time, as low as $30!
mags
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-09360-Premi...B000BYENGC
http://www.ebay.com/itm/09360-Bosch-Spar...Swn9lXJ-j6
BECK/ARNLEY 1756081 (good price on mag) mag. beck catalog shows, spec, MAG core 500ohm/ft (this # is proof)
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevr...e+set,7224
NGK 8120 $46
NGK Ignition Wire Set
SKU: #SE94
ITEM : # NGK8120
BRAND : NGK
Part Specifications
Core Material: Variable Pitch Ferrite Magnetic Core!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! this is what you want,MM be damned.
why not put a set of new, BOSCH mag wires on it?, , this is like the best thing you can do ,for weak spark suzuki.!!!!!
BOSCH 16valve = # 09360 ,or : # NGK8120 or beck
chasing bad spark is impossible, cant burn fuel with bad spark. so,,, (knock off that DUCK 1 , now, IMHO )
what is on the road, performance". (ok or ,stumbles?. is WOT good up hills ok,. accel ok?
When i saw D>N or R> N gear shift STALLS, I was GOBSMACKEd,! If face palm"
In my mind, you take the load off the engine and it stalls, I think that is impossible. but as we see NOT. what is that.?
The progression, of events(P/N means park /neutral)
The TRANNY P/N switch tells the PCM hey PCM no need for in gear idle profiles (aggressive) back to neutral/park profile via that PCM /TCM park wire input.
This PCM then goes to idle profile, in P/N mode out of gear mode. and regulates, idle at 800.rpm (ac/off)
so what can cause that, turns out not many.
classic failure 1:
#1 is TPS idle switch is not calibrated nor closed and at 0v at idle, (are the TV cables set 12mm slack ( per spec?)
ISC stuck (electr, iac) stuck but how, it was wide open (near) in Drive. how can it close more (does that going Neutral) and goes to far and sticks closed, seem "crazy"nahhhhhhh
my guess, is it starved for fuel or flooded. (not starve for aiir) id have used a hot right foot to prevent stall, can you ?, easy ,hard, or impossible)
keep in mind the human driving is just and effective ISC as the real ISC ,you can add air at any time with right foot.
before i discuss, EFI, lets to Day1 checks on all sidekicks\
1: crank pulley at 94ft/lbs ,that 17mm nut, with a/t box, most these cars, nobody reads the TSB on this or fails to do it know knowing how to lock a flywheel
none the the less, lots of engines sitting in barn, wrecked (crank snout destroyed)
my page just for that silly 17mm bolt is here, allways from SUnday
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/myclutch/f...locks.html
next'up, you have 2 door, did you know that all 2 doors, sufferer from (bad fuel pump ground) seems so, and with salt belt roads , 10x this.
I have a page for that too. and the under hood fuse boxes from H3LL same reasons
see G402? (ground)
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/PUMP/de....html#G402
H3LL: photo 1 here
http://www.fixkick.com/electrical-failure.html
more simple fixes checks on G16bs all.
does engine stumble with gas cap in hand?
does rapping the MAP at idle. change RPM (screw driver bland in hand rap MAF with handle gently,taP ,tap? must not change rpm hot engine'
ever clean maf (from 6" afar , never close using maf cleaner spray?_
is that main induction pipe (top big) free of all air leaks, look closed check it carefully.
no new fuel filter.?
if engine is good, seems so (if spark timing not off cam belt did not slip)
if sparks good, Mag wires do that,
then its EFI
EFI needs things in this order, to function correctly
1: fuel pressure at spec. 30-37 PSI idle. (lower # is at higher altitudes) and at WOT, it drops about 6psi, from idle. if not FPR is shot. end story
2: MAF is ok, its the key stone part, if good all is good mostly... it sets all fuel rates. all the time,02 trims
3: at idle,stumbles only small vacuum leaks.? even vac chose cracks, cracks suck are and engine goes lean. and stubles.
at high RPM the small cracks are hidden, mostly
4
tart engine ,it reaches 180f fast, say few miles,. some take 20 miles and are bad, some never reach 180f ever, and all are bad5:ECt matches, 180f, scanned. hot. does it? so easy to do on any scan tool.. bam 180, mines 195, better mpg there. 1/2mpg? but engine loves it. AS DOES COOLING IN THE RAD CORE.
6: IAT is not very important, in fact 2 years, have nonE. 92/93'
7: o2 is not it, its off line,accelerating.....
8: i see the CEL glowing all the time if yes, the PCM will be in limphome and guess what idle controls are shut down in limphome, fix that first, do not ignore the CEL,, 740s is trans, p07xxx are all trans and not engine.
9: scan the car as it fails, collect ,DTC ERRORS, PENDINGS, FREEZE FRAME DATA AND IF CAN' LIVE PID SENSOR DATA.
that is all for this morning
ill try to get all videos to play, and not stall today.
and wait for you driving report, tell all it does ok, and now ok, hot .cold,engine, and all gears,or flat ground on hills and WOT.
i call that the good the bad and the ugly,paints a total picture of whats going on
good luck!
links to mag, there many but i see sales on bosch all the time, as low as $30!
mags
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-09360-Premi...B000BYENGC
http://www.ebay.com/itm/09360-Bosch-Spar...Swn9lXJ-j6
BECK/ARNLEY 1756081 (good price on mag) mag. beck catalog shows, spec, MAG core 500ohm/ft (this # is proof)
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevr...e+set,7224
NGK 8120 $46
NGK Ignition Wire Set
SKU: #SE94
ITEM : # NGK8120
BRAND : NGK
Part Specifications
Core Material: Variable Pitch Ferrite Magnetic Core!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! this is what you want,MM be damned.
http://www.fixkick.com