(01-10-2017, 10:11 AM)ThomasKinzer Wrote: Hey Gang!
First Time Suzuki owner. I just picked up a Sidekick and just driving it around in limp mode for a week including one day in a snow storm, I gotta say, I'm already hooked. What a fun little truck! the 2door 4wd is as super good snow car. 2000lbs light,
I got a great deal on it and it's in good cosmetic and rust shape, but there are some gremlins and I could use some help figuring out the order of operations I should proceed with addressing issues with it. I bought the truck as a daily driver for winter. I got tired of riding my motorcycles in the snow.
the first thing to do is the tuneup, fluids the make sure the CEL flashes 12's on demand )
for me , brakes are #1 (after fuel leaks) no fires, boom and can stop. safety first.
The Rig:
USA 1992 Suzuki Sidekick JX 16 valve, Federal, Automatic 4speed electronic shifted it is, 4WD (2 door>?)
139K miles, been sitting for 5 years (yikes) Omg runs that long sitting fuel goes bad, and clogs injectors.
What Works:
All electrical markers, blinkers, rear window defrost/wiper, all that sort of thing works.
Starts quickly and easily.
Settles into a nice ~1400 rpm idle at 28degree F ambient temps and then kicks down to 800 rpm when it's warmed up. GOOD !
What I'm trying to fix:
CEL on. Code: 23 Intake Air Temp ( this fails for 3 reasons, its bad, wires cut or unplugged key on, reset the PCM and see if it comes back)
O/D flashing. (means the 4speed trans TCM is not happy , it has its own diag jumper and its own 2 dig codes, not related to ECM at all. errors.
Code: 33 Throttle Position Sensor ) this is wrong.
33 is DEAD MAF. that is LIMPHOME FOR SURE and sucks fuel like mad and fouls plugs.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/DTC-errors/DTC-jtgh.html
Brake Light on sometimes. (means fluid low, or hand brake stuck (switch) or means front rear main brake balance is off, or one is dead. (F or R)
its easy to test this by bypassing each switch to see which one is tripped.
After sitting at startup, starts right up, runs clean for 3-4 seconds, then starts spitting bluish-white smoke from exhaust for about 5 minutes. The smoke smells sweet smelling to me, but I could be wrong about that. (it rich and should be black smoke, black smoke smells like unburned fuel, )
if the white smoke lingers that is oil smoke, and is valve stem seals old, ignore it. some folks call it blue, but is really no proof, smell is #1 and lingers. or not.
if it white smoke goes way just like tea pot smoke that is steam, water. and bad. but all cars do this in cold weather because all fuel burns to H20 and CO2.
is this your first car?
Warms up very slowly. (15 minutes before the heater starts working, but once there, heater works well.) Once warmed up the temp gauge runs towards Cold but needle above the C (eventually). Again, idle kicks down at a normal time, around 5 minutes 28 ish degrees outside.
the gauge has not numbers so only installing a new thermostat will you know for ever what yours reads, normal it is crude but consistent the meter.
No coolant in oil on dipstick after multiple checks.
No oil in coolant. Coolant level may or may not be stable, I've only driven it for a week.
Has burnt almost 1/2 qt oil in one week (~200 miles).
It drives around, but seems to skip 2nd gear, never shifts to O/D/4th. (the TCM tells you why , use the TCM jumper and see OD flash codes)
per this. my TCM< page
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/slush/OD-f...0what.html
I have the following parts new and on-hand: air filter, spark plugs, IAT sensor, PCV valve. I don't want to start putting in parts in the wrong order and foul a brand new sensor for example.
so pull the doom fuse, for 5 minutes, this causes the ECU and TCM to forget all it ever knew. (DTC's) dome is memory power,
now all codes seen are real, work only those.
I'm thinking start with the CEL problem first, then the deal with the transmission, then the brakes and the oil or blown head gasket last (for financial reasons) unless that's the root cause of the IAT code 23.
never look at codes set by others (previous owners, yes write them down sure ) reset it and see what is real, same on your car and 2017 cars. same same.
the ecu and tcm both store errors, they can 1 second old or 5 years old, see? some as old as last battery swaP.
Please let me know the order you think is best to tackle this stuff!
Thanks in advance for all the expertise!
-TK
SOME Dtc do self clear, but its best to reset all and start over.
self clear on some takes too long, others clear in seconds, i think the IAT 23 clears in seconds, IIRC.
the long one for sure is code 51, EGR.
id clean the mAF next. using MAF cleaner at 6 to 12 inches afar.
then pull dome. fuse.
then put back
then idle engine, then gun it fast or drive.
maf still failing?
heck it could be home to a nest of spiders in 5 years. clean it and do it gently, do not put the nozzle hose, of spray directly up to those very fragile elements inside, back up, 6inches.
is use CRC maf cleaner. brand, sold in all stores and safe for plastics. and more.
http://www.fixkick.com