Could really use some help

[fixkick]

keep in mind, i blind, i can just open the hood and go, ogm, this ,that an that is wrong.
but who in the world tapped, the ignitor coil wires, and then the RED injector wire, that is pure evil there, see that liquid electricians tape there?
is the car missing the CAT< if not it too can be melted
got a vacuum Gage:? in 5min work we can see if the cat is melted inside, render 1.6L to like 0.5L engine. (pick a random number, melting blockages are random it blocking factor as is getting worse)

OK, so I proved the theory that we are short on fuel with the carb cleaner trick. I then pulled the injector and hosed the holy hell out of it with carb cleaner and then let it soak in Sea Foam for roughly 24 hours to no avail.

I did look into fuel pressure the poor mans way and can say that it will pump alot of fuel in just the 3 seconds when the key comes on. granted i know that is not what PRESSURE its making just flow. but i did have the tank down and fuel pump out and the pump itself looked new ish and i replaced the pick up screen when i first got the rig.

I have done the pump the throttle test and that definitely seems to help and typically is the only time it can generate much power.
so that goes to enrich mode and if it makes more power, tells me fuel is restricted.

I spent quite a bit of time with a flash light looking in at the injector spray running butterfly with my hand and know that it is shooting a good conical pattern at idle as i can see it hitting the butterfly. but when i open it up its harder to see the pattern and could only see a slight difference in spray when it was bogging vs revving but cant hold it open that long because when rpms do finally rise they obviously rise pretty fast without a load. One thing i did find looks like a homemade wire coming from coil thats spliced in to where injector plugs into connector. I attached a pic of both ends.

I will see if i can find some of that additive and dump some in. I also was told about a trick to try from the guy at the parts store but havent tried it yet, sounded little risky, but to somehow jump the injector with a 9V battery and make it fire hard to see if the plunger is gummed up. Where can I have an injector cleaned professionally? seems like a seal unit. its only $20 , if you read my injector page the link to witchhunter is there and my flow reports.

never listen to store clerks magic tricks. for sure burning up a good 1ohm injector, that is not good.
and tell him the 12vdc pulses are now firing my injector great now, at 3.5ms. why do i need a battery?
the 9v may not hurt the injector or the ECU, but hotwiring and injector will ,
and besides the ENRICH mode showed you that the injector does in fact go richer, in enrich mode, so the 9v is totally useless. IMO.

As far as actually checking fuel pressure i do not have a fuel pressure gauge and when i replaced the fuel filter the fittings were so rusty that 1 broke. so i went too a new inline filter that clamps in.

a shop needs tools, vacuum gauges, compression gage, fuel pressure. (timing light)
lacking tools
one must guess. and most times costs more that the $60 total in gauges above. (all 3 sold at harbor fright for 60 bucks, less on sale less with the free discount card)

if no vacuum tool, then try driving with 02 sensor unscrewed, (makes hole there for back pressure to be relieved) and power can come back.
melted cat, or unbolt the header flange to its 1/8" to 1/4" gap there, so exhaust leak massive and huge noise, then see if power returns
if yes, cat is melted.
now fuel pressure, you are correct, squirting tests do not work on weak pumps. (low pressure for any reasons is a hard failure)
no magic, can work that out. not any.
FPR stuck open
PUMP weak
voltage to pump too low.
filter clogged, no its new sure.
injector clogged, sure the can , and yes, you cant fix that, not ever. they use ultra sound and run it backwards to get it clean

my guess, is the injector wire red, is tapped, ???? i cant see below to be sure, but I see some ratty splice on that TPS/Injector plug.
why not get rid of all wires not not stock there and that ignitor /coil

the 20 buck tools pays for it self. fuel pressure.
you use it and go, golly the pressure is low, and dont need a $200 injector, or cleaned, nor mailed in 2 directions. and down time, all for 20 bucks.
or see it ok, and send witch hunter.

staring at pump housing will not work., only pressure matters at idle and WOT. if pressure is good, the ECU will inject and fuel will flow at spec.
if not the injector is bad.


here is my flow test
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/witchHunterTBIspec.jpg
mine was ok, sent in, I had 2 , this was my spare, i kept it just in case. I needed a good injector, same with my ECU , had a spare, know good.

$22
http://www.witchhunter.com/


if pressure is at spec, then this is it,
if cat not melted and map works.

injection rates are map based.
the melted cat, can make any engine bog, or later not run at all with engine cant pump air at all now.

you need to get rid of those wiring hacks,
my guess, old alarm wiring?
or old after market cruise controls
or old MPG gauge.

recap
1: bad wiring hacks. seen
2: CAT melted? is cat missing, I cant see there. (ask for vacuum tests?, or read my page bad cat , cat tests) super easy test with one tool.
3: MAP ok,? and plenum vacuum at 20"hg at idle, and acts correctly WOT (1second), and not like #2 does?
4: fuel pressure at spec.
5: injector clean is last. if down time not an issue?, then first.? a person call,.. there. but is last in a real shop with above tools.

wot tests are like a right foot stab, no crazy 5000rpm ever. just stab it once, best with with vacuum tool attached to see whats UP?
in a real shop all tests are done in about 1hr, with tools (gauges.)
and the tech says, alls good, so the injector(s) are partially clogged as most do , car parked tool long and fuel turns to gum.\


compression,ok
all vacuum tests pass, not just one.
spark good and advances correctly,and tune up parts put to bed. (with filters) a tune up is a Hope thing, saving vast grief and down time.
fuel pressure ok at spec at idle and WOT,
map readings ok (Volt out at idle, and wot test) in my search window type map .fixkick.com
injector is clogged.



this table is what makes fuel flow on all 8v (IAT sensor matters too)

http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/my-map.html