Hello,
very good,
TPS
the new engine,J18/20 engines , the TPs is set to .5vdc and is done. on much newer cars its fixed and ECU auto-calibrates,it at key every key on.,
not this buggy. its tedious.. this calibration...
This gap set, wrong. too small "tight" ,will cause the TPS idle to fail, for closed tests, and will show DTC error for that. (and idle controls go dead)
set too wide a gap, the TPS switch delays opening, as you use throttle and the ECU idle controls fight you, driving and causes a crazy hesitation.
The book on the car tells that over 500 ohms this switch fails.
the book shows using 3 feeler gauges.
Calibrate , is 0.026" switch just below 500 ohms. (if your hand is steady, this works and below is just going to work ) pin 1 and pin2 on TPS. 1 is bottom)
GO== 0.020" (below 500 for sure)
NOGO== 0.037" (shows infinity. on the resistance meter)
for metric, use times 25.4... (to mm sizes)
cheers and good luck
very good,
TPS
the new engine,J18/20 engines , the TPs is set to .5vdc and is done. on much newer cars its fixed and ECU auto-calibrates,it at key every key on.,
not this buggy. its tedious.. this calibration...
This gap set, wrong. too small "tight" ,will cause the TPS idle to fail, for closed tests, and will show DTC error for that. (and idle controls go dead)
set too wide a gap, the TPS switch delays opening, as you use throttle and the ECU idle controls fight you, driving and causes a crazy hesitation.
The book on the car tells that over 500 ohms this switch fails.
the book shows using 3 feeler gauges.
Calibrate , is 0.026" switch just below 500 ohms. (if your hand is steady, this works and below is just going to work ) pin 1 and pin2 on TPS. 1 is bottom)
GO== 0.020" (below 500 for sure)
NOGO== 0.037" (shows infinity. on the resistance meter)
for metric, use times 25.4... (to mm sizes)
cheers and good luck
(11-09-2016, 02:03 PM)Mizamook Wrote: What is idle at cold startup? Seems to want to be 1500 plus ... ouch.
Got Check Engine again after I forgot to plug TPS back in after adjustment ... that was funny.
Not sure if I needed 0.026" feeler gauge in there while adjusted .. didn't like result anyway.
Ebrake cable definitely cause of dragging brake - can't even pull old cable through sheath! ... replaced and adjusted ... will do other later ... shop so small I can only do stuff on one side!
Found rear differential breather tube was broken .. hope not too much grit got in there!
Blower fan definitely a connection .. at all speeds, a big THUMP on the housing made it work. Suspect brushes? or simple connection. Damn thing stays working once it's working ... I hate that. (yes, wires, or the brushes)
http://www.fixkick.com
