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Crankshaft Cog good, but not tight - replace?
#6
Thankee! I'm putting up a video to show the cog and play. You will undoubtedly not the fact it is not lined up (it was before I had the fight with the bolt) .. after I put the pulley back on I'll line it up and put the old timing belt on, torque the bolt to 94 with the car in 5th gear, then line things back up, and replace the belt with the new. The mark on the cog tooth is showing where 45 belt teeth line up with both crank and cam lined up. I'm a tooth counter, yes.

If you think things are dirty you shoulda seen them before. I'll do a final clean before install. I also showed removal of cog and backside (the gear, not mine, sorry)

https://youtu.be/OV1y8YM9rio (should be up in 15 minutes .. the webnet's slow today)

Going to run the new cam seal with the slightest of camshaft notch ... I had to look for it. After the winter I'll do an inspection and replace the seals and crank cog and bolt as necessary.

Noted about the thermostat. Will apprise after registering heat when car running. Already noted it's quite warm readily....and this Alaska is very temperate .. mostly wet snow and rain/snow coastal pattern, usually gets down to around 20, rarely as low as zero ...

Yes, I know that poor man's LSD trick .. I spent a lot of time in 2wd VW's in winter and snow/mud, etc (in fact it is a great winter car, except the heat problem) and it works sometimes .. also dependent on whether the rear brakes are adjusted properly ...

Another note: I saw that the coolant was pure, clean green. Good sign. Glad I removed rad for this job, but I see now I didn't have to. Did make things a lot easier though, especially cleaning all this oily CRUD.
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RE: Crankshaft Cog good, but not tight - replace? - by Mizamook - 11-08-2016, 07:13 AM

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