(11-07-2016, 06:54 PM)Mizamook Wrote: HUGE thank you to FixKick, -- many many tabs open on my browser the last two weeks after we brought home a '93 4 door 16v we bought off Craigslist sight unseen ... (1st time ever done such a thing, but hey .. a $700 car you can DRIVE?)
Your welcome and me too , $500 with blown engine, knew it going in i love craigs, for many things,
A quick peek under the timing belt cover and I grounded the car.
Hot lug nuts after drive home from ferry indicate sticking right parking brake.
Clutch feels funny .. new cable already installed. Will test after engine going again.
Engine covered with year's worth of oil and crud. Crank seal way gone, cam seal pretty bad.
So, timing belt off, didn't read FixKick admonition to heat up crank cog rather than big lever, but wasn't TOO bad I hope (Wifey held big lever, I pulled on the other, POP) seemed fine, only messed up the ridges on the pulley a little ..... rem belt, then found I got the cog off too easily .. expecting to have to create the custom puller as pictured, but the cog basically came off with a nice pull. (most do this old)
just not so hot as to melt the front main bearing BABBIT liners.
Looks good though .. key is straight and tight, keyway is square and straight, cam nose shiny. (what a joy to see that, many are not)
I can slip the cog back on. If I wiggle (rotation) it I'd guesstimate a degree of play in either direction. BAD, show photos)
there must be zero play, most cogs now are bad and cheap.
show or find where the play is?
Recommend absolutely replace cog before torquing to 94 ft lbs? Or will it last an easy winter so I can get the 'kick out of the garage before we get snowed in ... it's so easy to access why not plan to rem cover and check things out after winter passes ... to make sure the new seals are holding, etc, and can install new cog then?
yes, that is and issue, and the cog can take 2 weeks from the now lame SUZUKI parts sales. (deep warehousing)
It will run, and not get looser at 94fl/lbs , only getting TDC dead on matters, just before the full tight, the key useless after full tight.
Yes, timed to E, crank mark up, cyl. #4, made hose to breathe in, stopped breath (in fact as I was turning engine, it tried to inflate me) so feel good about timing. Not removing valve cover this time .. engine actually sounded great and ran fine, so after I fix the biggies, later I will finesse. TPS on the way, but not sure if it will work ... Error 44. (idle switch stuck open 5v, its calibration off)
Other than that, and some rust and cosmetic stuff, it's a great car for $700.
Plus, the heater works ... which will be nice here in Southeast Alaska where we've been driving a '66 aircooled VW bus in winter with Toyota truck as backup .. heater didn't work in the pickup, and the VW .. well, it's aircooled ...
Thanks again for the huge informative writing and enjoyment!
get a 195 thermostat for ALASKA. run it hot. (mail order to Alaska from rockauto)
192 is good too
here
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/suzuk...Fchevrolet
http://www.fixkick.com