if it ticks , it might be bad, the VSV, if it rattles its bad, but when driving car, its open, not pulsing ever, basically its closed at idle, so that evap fumes dont mess up idle. then when you advance the throttle past say 50 thousands of an inch, 1mm? the idle switch opens the ECU sees that event and opens the EVAP valve, and sucks fumes, cruising full time and never pulses. That is the FRONT VSV not rear.
if the idle switch is opening and closings like that god, if not then its bad, i bet not... , as the video shows you heavy into to the throttle. so, its not this switch. failing foot deep on throttle.
leaving,what>?
if the VSV 12vdc pins (pair) PULSES, that is bad ECU. if the ECU is found to reboot over and over, then ecu caps are bad.
Best is to keep the diagnostic jumper in place (paper clip), if you did, and 12 flashes out, good, if you advance the throttle and the VSV clicks (repeats)
then if the ECU crashes, the 12s, get mangled mid stride, if you see the 12s miss up now, then ECU is rebooting over and over. due to classic bad caps. errors., (Imagine a drunk Ham Radeo operator, keying his morse key and messing up, this is what 12s, do,,,,, 1,,,2,,,,,1,,,,1,,,,2,,,,,1,,,,,,22,,,11,,mangled.
The vsv is easy to bench test, shake it , like a baby rattle does it make noise? yes, then its bad.
we can test that the coil is like 35 ohms and holding steady,wiggle connector?, and check the valve for closed, and open by blowing in ports. (i use vac tool)
super simple easy part and tests. It works just like a lawn sprinkler valve, only air not water. not any differences, easy tests.
I think default its open (0v) then you key on, and it closed (12v), and stays closed until you leave idle. IIRC....
the FSM covers vsv tests, fully.
hope the new one works, but if not, now you know why,
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/vsv.html
if the idle switch is opening and closings like that god, if not then its bad, i bet not... , as the video shows you heavy into to the throttle. so, its not this switch. failing foot deep on throttle.
leaving,what>?
if the VSV 12vdc pins (pair) PULSES, that is bad ECU. if the ECU is found to reboot over and over, then ecu caps are bad.
Best is to keep the diagnostic jumper in place (paper clip), if you did, and 12 flashes out, good, if you advance the throttle and the VSV clicks (repeats)
then if the ECU crashes, the 12s, get mangled mid stride, if you see the 12s miss up now, then ECU is rebooting over and over. due to classic bad caps. errors., (Imagine a drunk Ham Radeo operator, keying his morse key and messing up, this is what 12s, do,,,,, 1,,,2,,,,,1,,,,1,,,,2,,,,,1,,,,,,22,,,11,,mangled.
The vsv is easy to bench test, shake it , like a baby rattle does it make noise? yes, then its bad.
we can test that the coil is like 35 ohms and holding steady,wiggle connector?, and check the valve for closed, and open by blowing in ports. (i use vac tool)
super simple easy part and tests. It works just like a lawn sprinkler valve, only air not water. not any differences, easy tests.
I think default its open (0v) then you key on, and it closed (12v), and stays closed until you leave idle. IIRC....
the FSM covers vsv tests, fully.
hope the new one works, but if not, now you know why,
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/vsv.html
(09-12-2016, 06:12 AM)SrgBog Wrote: Thanks for the help.
Well I figure out that the ticking sound comes from the VSV (11 - evap). FRONT !
Well I took and off and clean it - it didn't helped to anything but I removed a lot oily dirt from inside of it... So its clean now
Anyway as I said the ticking sound coming form the VSV - so I found one used at ebay for 30$ - I will get it.
bytw Sandro-it - you can get a VSV at ebay.. I searched at ebay "sidekick VSV" and found a few..
.
BIG THANK YOU GUYS for your help and advice !
mr. fixkick you are a real helperbee !!
http://www.fixkick.com