do you have and FSM on this car,. it free online.
read the axle pages, yet, it tells ever itty bitty step there.
the gears are removed.
and when you do that, you lose the (meshup of the gears, non trivial that)
there are many types of lockers, endless, electric, vacuum , pressure, auto locks via Eaton centrifigle, ,yours are not auto locks they are auto unlocking, the are locked by default
the under huge forces turning on pavement, the crack free, on the ratchet faces, and ugly system that no OEM uses.
even turning car on a pavement covered in light sand can be dangerous, as it wants to unlock , lock and then repeats causing violent traction changes.... they are rude and crude devices. (as seen in vid)
IMO , offroad only, id never let my wife run these, not me...(the true telling there)
that video is useless, sorry, its just a guy playing with the lock. (sorry but its just a simple demo of the ratchet plates, that be it)
what maters is the large labor to installed it and put the gears back so they don't self destruct, and the new pinion preload spacer too. on front of pinion, behind yoke,.
page 4c or 4b covers this. clearly.
at the vary least you will lose all page 33, alignment.
http://www.acksfaq.com/HTML/trackerfsm.htm
start at 4B18
axles out, pig mounted in bench mount, page 18.
these pages are total rebuild. so many steps can be skipped. not by much.
but not all
preload on the pinion must be correct. (and offset on the pinion, a good shop at least checks it , after all, how know what the prev.owners did.
or did horror 1, seen in same book over-torqued the pinion nut, oops, that be bad. (like some guy trying to fix front seal leaks the wrong way)
some will just not check that. and start at page 31 there
and set the gear lash and mating patterns.
see preload and back lash adjustments, page 31
see page 33> if you dont get those patterns correct the axle has no chance of lasting.
best to do before, buying locker's is find a shop that can do all that. and not mess it up.
many shops can't. they lack axle men there. (some just lie , ah yah we can do it, tell me one happy customer, oops)
The cost of all that. is way more than the parts, well here it is..
long hours of pulling axles, and pigs, and done doing front and rear axles.
my guess 10 to 20 hours labor, depends on shop.
Ive seen folks buy the parts, and they sit parked after later finding out the full costs and huge work.
it not trivial, any of this.
not easy like new axle bearing.
but you can save cash by pulling your PIGS (carriers) and delivering them to a pro axle shop.
1/2 the cost id guess.
read the axle pages, yet, it tells ever itty bitty step there.
the gears are removed.
and when you do that, you lose the (meshup of the gears, non trivial that)
there are many types of lockers, endless, electric, vacuum , pressure, auto locks via Eaton centrifigle, ,yours are not auto locks they are auto unlocking, the are locked by default
the under huge forces turning on pavement, the crack free, on the ratchet faces, and ugly system that no OEM uses.
even turning car on a pavement covered in light sand can be dangerous, as it wants to unlock , lock and then repeats causing violent traction changes.... they are rude and crude devices. (as seen in vid)
IMO , offroad only, id never let my wife run these, not me...(the true telling there)
that video is useless, sorry, its just a guy playing with the lock. (sorry but its just a simple demo of the ratchet plates, that be it)
what maters is the large labor to installed it and put the gears back so they don't self destruct, and the new pinion preload spacer too. on front of pinion, behind yoke,.
page 4c or 4b covers this. clearly.
at the vary least you will lose all page 33, alignment.
http://www.acksfaq.com/HTML/trackerfsm.htm
start at 4B18
axles out, pig mounted in bench mount, page 18.
these pages are total rebuild. so many steps can be skipped. not by much.
but not all
preload on the pinion must be correct. (and offset on the pinion, a good shop at least checks it , after all, how know what the prev.owners did.
or did horror 1, seen in same book over-torqued the pinion nut, oops, that be bad. (like some guy trying to fix front seal leaks the wrong way)
some will just not check that. and start at page 31 there
and set the gear lash and mating patterns.
see preload and back lash adjustments, page 31
see page 33> if you dont get those patterns correct the axle has no chance of lasting.
best to do before, buying locker's is find a shop that can do all that. and not mess it up.
many shops can't. they lack axle men there. (some just lie , ah yah we can do it, tell me one happy customer, oops)
The cost of all that. is way more than the parts, well here it is..
long hours of pulling axles, and pigs, and done doing front and rear axles.
my guess 10 to 20 hours labor, depends on shop.
Ive seen folks buy the parts, and they sit parked after later finding out the full costs and huge work.
it not trivial, any of this.
not easy like new axle bearing.
but you can save cash by pulling your PIGS (carriers) and delivering them to a pro axle shop.
1/2 the cost id guess.
http://www.fixkick.com