Timing question

[fixkick]

the engine can not make 5000 rpm just off idle, and do that and allow the mech, advance to take you there, it just rpm based.

vacuum is load sensing, the S-port , allows the vacuum advance to do that, it allows, the spark to advance way more aggressive than the simple RPM advance device.(centrifugal)

static is just base timing, all engines its must be near zero or engine will be hard to start.
once started, and running the 2 devices add up more advance, RPM and S-port vacuum tap.
algebra?

total advance = base static time + vacuum advance + rpm advance.(centrifugal fly weight device)

it is that simple, they just add up.
the engine is 95HP
if driving for beer , a lawn mower engine would do.
in fact timed any way at all would do. (if still starts)

what ive told here is to make it work under all conditions even 1000 lbs or bricks in back>
if i had it, and no time (labor) or cash to fix it.?

id retard the spark (base) until it don't ping, r (pinging is detonation and will wreck any motor,gas)
or
(or as you said, pinch the vacuum line, to dizzy)

the 3rd way ,is to put stops on the vacuum plate.
the vacuum servo moves the plate, all plates ive ever seen have stops.

here is how chevy guys do this, they get the mech, working correct first,: centrifugal )

then set the vacuum advance limits, the stock PLATE, has bent tabs to do that. and are crude and in your case dead wrong for any G13 vac, servo.
one could add a screw to form a stop but if drilled wrong , oops, cant correct that, now?
so they invented this gizmo... (your not the first to have this problem) (on my cars, its a simple ecu table edit)

see this gizmo.
it lets you limit total vacuum advance (stops). many vac, advances are too aggressive, (for sure with shaved heads, and high CR)

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the vacuum advance gives the engine its whole personality .
and for sure in town.
leaving a red light, (called OFF THE LINE, as in drag racing)
the advance is aggressive and huge engine torque happens now.
if no advance vacuum you just wait for 3000 or more RPM to get full torque.

only folks racing flat tracks take it off, (vac pot) because.
they never slow down
extra parts to fail
extra work tuning it
and risk of ping.
and last 2 devices to avoid killer ping... (they do hate it)

it's for stop light(sign) driving in town.
it gives you that magic, LOW END GRUNT,, "torque" (if carb setup right it does)

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the vacuum advance gives the engine its whole personality .
and for sure in town.
leaving a red light, (called OFF THE LINE, as in drag racing)
the vac advance is aggressive and huge engine torque happens now.
the mech centrifugal , is slow, unless you burn rubber down the block at every green light, hitting 5k rpm in an instant.
if no advance vacuum you just wait for 3000 or more RPM to get full engine torque.

only folks racing flat tracks take it off, (vac pot) because.
they never slow down
extra parts to fail
extra work tuning it
and risk of ping.
and last 2 devices to avoid killer ping... (they do hate it)

it's for stop light(sign) driving in town.
it gives you that magic, LOW END GRUNT,, "torque" (if carb setup right it does)