more, lots more,,, that nipple on the weber is called the S-port.
and is for vacuum and advance, and is 0 vacuum at idle.
if idle is set wrong,, the S-port will not be at 0 inches HG at idle. and will mess up the vacuum advance.
this is covered deep in to weber tuning...
real photos to post now, internet deep searching,,,,
v1 = S-port. vac, advance.
![[Image: 3_04_06_16_7_12_04.jpeg]](http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/gallery/3_04_06_16_7_12_04.jpeg)
closer. now.
![[Image: 3_04_06_16_7_15_03.jpeg]](http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/gallery/3_04_06_16_7_15_03.jpeg)
here is the site for jeeps that use this carb.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/weber-...n-1051137/
and all those tricky weber secrets.... (endless)
id run harley CV carb on a 1.6L and make tuning x10 more easy....
more secrets
the terms DGV, DGEV, DGAV:
D is down draft, G is the mounting direction, V is manual choke, EV is electric choke, AV is water choke...
so at idle
there is no vacuum here.
then when you open throttle, vacuum is active at the S-port.
these goes to the rear nipple on the vac, advance.
and advances, the spark, if the spring in said vacuum pot is too weak, then the advance will be too aggressive. (fixing that, is not easy task using wrong pot)
by pot i mean the vac, advance, servo.
if the vacuum cause to much advance, only added stops the plate that the pot moves, can cure that.
too bad we dont have a real fsm with the advance tables. known.... then we could do tests.
the only tables we have are the old samurai.
ill look that up, see if i can gleen some facts there. on the POT.
the sammi book , zero vac, advance data, just leak down test. sad.
that's ok, the EGR port is an option
what matters, is
how does your G13 vacuum hooklup.... it must be correctly connected.
right now, i bet the vacuum line to the vacuum advance is setting at 20 inches vacuum, wrong.
i cant see your lines, so all my answers here are wild guessing..
the S-port will run the vacuum advance, and will be 0 inches of vacuum at idle.
yours is not.
that is why the advance is wrong.
you start the engine and then you set timing, with the vacuum advance connected.
do not. do that.
set the static time with no vacuum line to the distributor, pull it and plug it.
then set timing at idle.
the after timing is at spec. say 5deg. BTDC.
then running connect up the vacuum advance hose, if you see the advance go crazy high
that means you are using the wrong vacuum port on the carb.
or the carb is set up wrong, (idle screw stop set wrong)
the advance must not go to VACUUM advance max, at idle ever.
and is for vacuum and advance, and is 0 vacuum at idle.
if idle is set wrong,, the S-port will not be at 0 inches HG at idle. and will mess up the vacuum advance.
this is covered deep in to weber tuning...
real photos to post now, internet deep searching,,,,
v1 = S-port. vac, advance.
closer. now.
here is the site for jeeps that use this carb.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/weber-...n-1051137/
and all those tricky weber secrets.... (endless)
id run harley CV carb on a 1.6L and make tuning x10 more easy....
more secrets
the terms DGV, DGEV, DGAV:
D is down draft, G is the mounting direction, V is manual choke, EV is electric choke, AV is water choke...
so at idle
there is no vacuum here.
then when you open throttle, vacuum is active at the S-port.
these goes to the rear nipple on the vac, advance.
and advances, the spark, if the spring in said vacuum pot is too weak, then the advance will be too aggressive. (fixing that, is not easy task using wrong pot)
by pot i mean the vac, advance, servo.
if the vacuum cause to much advance, only added stops the plate that the pot moves, can cure that.
too bad we dont have a real fsm with the advance tables. known.... then we could do tests.
the only tables we have are the old samurai.
ill look that up, see if i can gleen some facts there. on the POT.
the sammi book , zero vac, advance data, just leak down test. sad.
that's ok, the EGR port is an option
what matters, is
how does your G13 vacuum hooklup.... it must be correctly connected.
right now, i bet the vacuum line to the vacuum advance is setting at 20 inches vacuum, wrong.
i cant see your lines, so all my answers here are wild guessing..
the S-port will run the vacuum advance, and will be 0 inches of vacuum at idle.
yours is not.
that is why the advance is wrong.
you start the engine and then you set timing, with the vacuum advance connected.
do not. do that.
set the static time with no vacuum line to the distributor, pull it and plug it.
then set timing at idle.
the after timing is at spec. say 5deg. BTDC.
then running connect up the vacuum advance hose, if you see the advance go crazy high
that means you are using the wrong vacuum port on the carb.
or the carb is set up wrong, (idle screw stop set wrong)
the advance must not go to VACUUM advance max, at idle ever.
http://www.fixkick.com