all that
when a shop, finds pressure low, He knows you lost R134a, so he charges it back with the can that states R134a with dye.
then finds the leaks by inspecting the the whole system..,, guessing and making assumptions does not work here, only truth. this is what is called standard operating procedures. (even damage to pipes from previous collisions or poor service on some other engine failure and the previous mechanic did damage, but most times 'SEALS)
leaks must be found and cured, or you get to add R134a every 2 weeks then 1 week and then every day... as all leaks never get better they get worse. (imagine a seal getting worse in time, old,hard and full of cracks)
Ijust mentioned noise, as that too all by itself, is an issue, compressor noises, , fans, etc. (noises, that the customer does not like, , even if A/c is ok !)
then
low performance only parked.
or low performance all the time. (parked or at 100kmh)
or the front fan bad , dead, weak or intermittent. (this fan must work parked or...... condenser can't do its job)
lots and lots of fail points. electric , compressor and the refrigerant loop parts.
so it's 8c at 2000 rpm after it's stabilized, so this test passes. but you imply some other test fails, when, and under what conditions, and if it fails, does the compressor clutch dis-engage.
then it works perfectly with car moving fast and on long trips right? full A/C performance moving car fast? all the time? 8c? or the numbers in the chart?
then at stop signs, the AC is not 8c?, but much higher, right?
these are all performance issues,
the pump can in fact be weak, but you didn't state the high side pressures at 2000 rpm,which is how that is done, not idle.
if they say it needs a pump , try another, AC shop,, get a real second opinion, it's always good, even you and a Doctor.... same...
As you can see the costs can elevate, due to the extent of the damage. (it can be expensive, or just a loose fuse for $5) Diagnosis is the key to finding cause and reasonable repair cost.
This extra damage can not be discovered, staring at car, only when the system is dismantled and carefully examined by the technician....
No tech, wants to just jury rig the system and then have car return with the same problem. (contamination discovered, or signs of running wrong oil or wrong, refrigerants or illegal mix causes a witches brew)
http://www.autotrader.com/car-news/commo...osts-33197
A/C even on a new car parked in the sun, will take a long time to cool down said car, here in Deep South, this can take 10 miles. driving.. 120f outside, ambient.
if not sure , rent a car, and see how one really works when parked out side, in the hot sun,,,,, (and slower when humid , as it is there. the chart i posted shows the normal performance losses.)
when a shop, finds pressure low, He knows you lost R134a, so he charges it back with the can that states R134a with dye.
then finds the leaks by inspecting the the whole system..,, guessing and making assumptions does not work here, only truth. this is what is called standard operating procedures. (even damage to pipes from previous collisions or poor service on some other engine failure and the previous mechanic did damage, but most times 'SEALS)
leaks must be found and cured, or you get to add R134a every 2 weeks then 1 week and then every day... as all leaks never get better they get worse. (imagine a seal getting worse in time, old,hard and full of cracks)
Ijust mentioned noise, as that too all by itself, is an issue, compressor noises, , fans, etc. (noises, that the customer does not like, , even if A/c is ok !)
then
low performance only parked.
or low performance all the time. (parked or at 100kmh)
or the front fan bad , dead, weak or intermittent. (this fan must work parked or...... condenser can't do its job)
lots and lots of fail points. electric , compressor and the refrigerant loop parts.
so it's 8c at 2000 rpm after it's stabilized, so this test passes. but you imply some other test fails, when, and under what conditions, and if it fails, does the compressor clutch dis-engage.
then it works perfectly with car moving fast and on long trips right? full A/C performance moving car fast? all the time? 8c? or the numbers in the chart?
then at stop signs, the AC is not 8c?, but much higher, right?
these are all performance issues,
the pump can in fact be weak, but you didn't state the high side pressures at 2000 rpm,which is how that is done, not idle.
if they say it needs a pump , try another, AC shop,, get a real second opinion, it's always good, even you and a Doctor.... same...
As you can see the costs can elevate, due to the extent of the damage. (it can be expensive, or just a loose fuse for $5) Diagnosis is the key to finding cause and reasonable repair cost.
This extra damage can not be discovered, staring at car, only when the system is dismantled and carefully examined by the technician....
No tech, wants to just jury rig the system and then have car return with the same problem. (contamination discovered, or signs of running wrong oil or wrong, refrigerants or illegal mix causes a witches brew)
http://www.autotrader.com/car-news/commo...osts-33197
A/C even on a new car parked in the sun, will take a long time to cool down said car, here in Deep South, this can take 10 miles. driving.. 120f outside, ambient.
if not sure , rent a car, and see how one really works when parked out side, in the hot sun,,,,, (and slower when humid , as it is there. the chart i posted shows the normal performance losses.)
http://www.fixkick.com