the ECU can cut injection too, its a feature on all ECU made.
no need to listen to injector clicks, TBI, super hard, that, but wise. to try no lie.
the next test was and is the NOID lamp test, per my injector pages. (i do it all 3 ways) ask.
all it takes is the TPS ground wire to break this causes the TPS TP pin to go to 5v
this cases the ECU to cut fuel thinking driver, is doing the text book wide open throttle Unflood mode, actions... but 5v there, cause ECU to throw a DTC error. cranked.
really at this point there are 3 checks (if you have all tools , i do it this way.)
fuel pressure is 30psi if 0 or 10 , that is bad, end saga.
if pressure is spec, then NOID , test.
if noid ok, then the injector is clogged, it has tiny 10 micron screens, easy to clean unlike any MPI engine.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...age_6.html
check the injector wires (unplugged ) or 1 ohm resistance., (spec)
is this ground ok? this page below shows, critical ECU grounds too, see the table?)
the 2door loves to rust this G403 screw. (pump ground)
id make that super clean. (engine running or not, so it keeps running)
http://www.fixkick.com/Good_Bad_Ugly/com...lures.html
the 3way noid test. works best , for good reasons. this car runs dual drivers on that 1 injector
the transistors (drivers) can fail 3 ways, open /shorted,/leak.
a scope makes this childs play but the lamp works.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/NOID101.html
lamp across the 2 pins (unplugged) Red wire and yellow? harness side this test is the TRANSVERSE test.
key on , must be dead. lamp. if on, shorted drivers you have.
crank it and LAMP flashes, so fast it just seems to glow... not flash....(depends on battery strength and crank RPM)
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/INJ-red-to-yel-w1.jpg
ok next.
lamp to red pin, and other lamp pin to ground , the red wire is pulsed 12vdc .
must not be dead lamp key on. (for sure 56bxx ecu) and then crank and it pulses like above, or glows.
the YELLOW pin:
now the tricky pin, this is the pulsing ground pin (transistor)
connect lamp to 12vdc + battery lug.
then other pin to the yellow pin (all tests are harness side)
the lamp must not be stuck on key on, if yes, this transistor is shorted,
ok that works i then crank and see it flash or glow dim cranked only...
that is it.
I'm not a 60axx , expert, only 56b and 70xxxx i do know well.
60a ECU are 89/90s,. and i have not reverse engineered those 60a drivers.
so only the first test above works, for sure 60a,, no glow key on, and glows cranking, Transverse connected.
other suzuki, like the swift run 1 resistor to battery and to, the injector, and then one transistor to pulse the injector. like MPI does, but is TBI.
best i can tell the 60a. work like 56b.(56b added new ECU spark system)
my injector pages show all 3 scope views of both pins. red /yellow and transverse mode (across).
but for not all that matters is noid glows cranking.
http://www.fixkick.com/NOID/91-noid-sf1.jpg
what do we know?
engine runs, hooraah
sparks good, ecu dont make spark on 60a but the eCU monitors it full time and cuts fuel if it sees spark bad or cmp bad. its not.
ecu grounds are ok, or it wouldnt run. same for distributor power, its ok, engine does run. (test fuel)
power to ecu ok. it flashes 12s and runs.
the ecu has other pins.
the only INPUT ECU pin i know that kills the injector is the TPS. 1 pin. called "TP"
tp pin is about 1vdc foot off throttle, (dash pot retracted by hand) keyon, never 5v , never 0v. TP = GRAY WIRE. (ecu will warn you, if wrong! code 21 or 22)
keep the DLC jumper clip in place, and crank for 5 seconds, release key, got 12s now.????
you can even drive car with 12s flashing it's totally harmless this pin,
the ecu can set DTC errors only cranked, and then self clear. (fast) (most cars made this is true, not all errors are stored!)
that is why using the jumper during a failure is smart, a win, or in newer cars, a scan tool.
no need to listen to injector clicks, TBI, super hard, that, but wise. to try no lie.
the next test was and is the NOID lamp test, per my injector pages. (i do it all 3 ways) ask.
all it takes is the TPS ground wire to break this causes the TPS TP pin to go to 5v
this cases the ECU to cut fuel thinking driver, is doing the text book wide open throttle Unflood mode, actions... but 5v there, cause ECU to throw a DTC error. cranked.
really at this point there are 3 checks (if you have all tools , i do it this way.)
fuel pressure is 30psi if 0 or 10 , that is bad, end saga.
if pressure is spec, then NOID , test.
if noid ok, then the injector is clogged, it has tiny 10 micron screens, easy to clean unlike any MPI engine.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...age_6.html
check the injector wires (unplugged ) or 1 ohm resistance., (spec)
is this ground ok? this page below shows, critical ECU grounds too, see the table?)
the 2door loves to rust this G403 screw. (pump ground)
id make that super clean. (engine running or not, so it keeps running)
http://www.fixkick.com/Good_Bad_Ugly/com...lures.html
the 3way noid test. works best , for good reasons. this car runs dual drivers on that 1 injector
the transistors (drivers) can fail 3 ways, open /shorted,/leak.
a scope makes this childs play but the lamp works.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/NOID101.html
lamp across the 2 pins (unplugged) Red wire and yellow? harness side this test is the TRANSVERSE test.
key on , must be dead. lamp. if on, shorted drivers you have.
crank it and LAMP flashes, so fast it just seems to glow... not flash....(depends on battery strength and crank RPM)
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/INJ-red-to-yel-w1.jpg
ok next.
lamp to red pin, and other lamp pin to ground , the red wire is pulsed 12vdc .
must not be dead lamp key on. (for sure 56bxx ecu) and then crank and it pulses like above, or glows.
the YELLOW pin:
now the tricky pin, this is the pulsing ground pin (transistor)
connect lamp to 12vdc + battery lug.
then other pin to the yellow pin (all tests are harness side)
the lamp must not be stuck on key on, if yes, this transistor is shorted,
ok that works i then crank and see it flash or glow dim cranked only...
that is it.
I'm not a 60axx , expert, only 56b and 70xxxx i do know well.
60a ECU are 89/90s,. and i have not reverse engineered those 60a drivers.
so only the first test above works, for sure 60a,, no glow key on, and glows cranking, Transverse connected.
other suzuki, like the swift run 1 resistor to battery and to, the injector, and then one transistor to pulse the injector. like MPI does, but is TBI.
best i can tell the 60a. work like 56b.(56b added new ECU spark system)
my injector pages show all 3 scope views of both pins. red /yellow and transverse mode (across).
but for not all that matters is noid glows cranking.
http://www.fixkick.com/NOID/91-noid-sf1.jpg
what do we know?
engine runs, hooraah
sparks good, ecu dont make spark on 60a but the eCU monitors it full time and cuts fuel if it sees spark bad or cmp bad. its not.
ecu grounds are ok, or it wouldnt run. same for distributor power, its ok, engine does run. (test fuel)
power to ecu ok. it flashes 12s and runs.
the ecu has other pins.
the only INPUT ECU pin i know that kills the injector is the TPS. 1 pin. called "TP"
tp pin is about 1vdc foot off throttle, (dash pot retracted by hand) keyon, never 5v , never 0v. TP = GRAY WIRE. (ecu will warn you, if wrong! code 21 or 22)
keep the DLC jumper clip in place, and crank for 5 seconds, release key, got 12s now.????
you can even drive car with 12s flashing it's totally harmless this pin,
the ecu can set DTC errors only cranked, and then self clear. (fast) (most cars made this is true, not all errors are stored!)
that is why using the jumper during a failure is smart, a win, or in newer cars, a scan tool.
http://www.fixkick.com