so use testfuel spray. (saves tons if time,) (dead, runs nice then stalls. or? runs poorly and back fires to air cleaner.??????????)
if passes tests, runs each time nice for 2 -3seconds ,its lost fueling
if it does not pass s this test, do compression test, ever do a timing belt? for cam? or uses a timing light, if spark time way off the cam belt slipped.
spark timing check is super easy on #1 cylinder, $20 tool if way off, cam slipped. most do shortly after 60k life.
cruise ? add on cruise can be very bad, wire damage....
the factory cruise , the box is marked 33930-60a10 is very highest in dash to right of steering column, shows as only offered on 4door car.
all boxes (modules) on car have this suz. codes. and i can look them all up.
the cruise factory switch is almost center of dash lower part.
Cruise wires up to Tachometer, RPM, and brakes, and clutch, (shorting the tach, kills engine, and code 41s)
the box behind the ECU is the buzzer (seat belts etc)
the box near left toe , rested is RWAL box (rear wheel antilock brakes.)
finding out which device smells can be hard, ok very good no DRL, they all fail. every one it seems...
if a box looks factory , it is, that is, if the wires enter the harnesses clean, no wire nuts, or cannibal splices, or solder and shrink tubing, seen,,???
i all those hacks, non stock is devices wired in that are not stock. and can be a big problem. (fires, smoke, or shorts out critical EFI signals)
if all boxes lock stock and the NOSE can't find it. we must use our meters (DMM) to find what is wrong. (minor tools, all very cheap)
the ECU on this car love to blow up that pesky main CAP. some explode in side and stinks real bad.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU.html
Dash parts:
the 92 is close to same seen here (i have the 90 drawing too)
68 is cruise box, way up high to right, there is no TCM on 5speeds. ,5/5a are all in one on 89/90s
the cruise button is 69, and so is location, in dash same. keep in mind this drawings covers 4door too with a huge list of options you dont have, (door locks/windows elec. and electric mirrors, and rear wipers)
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/92-95-dash-parts.JPG
really test fuel is next.
see if engines ok, if it sounds bad, my guess the belt snapped. cam. (slipped)
watch scotty? do test fuel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8...ature=fvwp
89/90 has unique pump (if suspected later , scotty test passes test fuel test)
the 10F rule.
unlike 91 up, G16s, the pump dont run key on, each turn from off to on. and cant hear it run ,
so we must test the larger pink-blk wire, at the main RELAY cranking 10-12vdc seen there.
and the same place at left rear tail light well, same wire color and corrosion there and the pump ground seen there at body screws. all love to fail.
the TBI tests
the air horn comes right off.that huge pipe, and car runs with it off, unlike the G16b
and the injector can be eyeballed cranking, (a zero cost tests and fast)
my no start page covers all this.
see a non suzuki do same here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl...eHgh8#t=30
when you crank it , it must spray ,just like this. cone spray.
if passes tests, runs each time nice for 2 -3seconds ,its lost fueling
if it does not pass s this test, do compression test, ever do a timing belt? for cam? or uses a timing light, if spark time way off the cam belt slipped.
spark timing check is super easy on #1 cylinder, $20 tool if way off, cam slipped. most do shortly after 60k life.
cruise ? add on cruise can be very bad, wire damage....
the factory cruise , the box is marked 33930-60a10 is very highest in dash to right of steering column, shows as only offered on 4door car.
all boxes (modules) on car have this suz. codes. and i can look them all up.
the cruise factory switch is almost center of dash lower part.
Cruise wires up to Tachometer, RPM, and brakes, and clutch, (shorting the tach, kills engine, and code 41s)
the box behind the ECU is the buzzer (seat belts etc)
the box near left toe , rested is RWAL box (rear wheel antilock brakes.)
finding out which device smells can be hard, ok very good no DRL, they all fail. every one it seems...
if a box looks factory , it is, that is, if the wires enter the harnesses clean, no wire nuts, or cannibal splices, or solder and shrink tubing, seen,,???
i all those hacks, non stock is devices wired in that are not stock. and can be a big problem. (fires, smoke, or shorts out critical EFI signals)
if all boxes lock stock and the NOSE can't find it. we must use our meters (DMM) to find what is wrong. (minor tools, all very cheap)
the ECU on this car love to blow up that pesky main CAP. some explode in side and stinks real bad.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU.html
Dash parts:
the 92 is close to same seen here (i have the 90 drawing too)
68 is cruise box, way up high to right, there is no TCM on 5speeds. ,5/5a are all in one on 89/90s
the cruise button is 69, and so is location, in dash same. keep in mind this drawings covers 4door too with a huge list of options you dont have, (door locks/windows elec. and electric mirrors, and rear wipers)
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/92-95-dash-parts.JPG
really test fuel is next.
see if engines ok, if it sounds bad, my guess the belt snapped. cam. (slipped)
watch scotty? do test fuel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8...ature=fvwp
89/90 has unique pump (if suspected later , scotty test passes test fuel test)
the 10F rule.
unlike 91 up, G16s, the pump dont run key on, each turn from off to on. and cant hear it run ,
so we must test the larger pink-blk wire, at the main RELAY cranking 10-12vdc seen there.
and the same place at left rear tail light well, same wire color and corrosion there and the pump ground seen there at body screws. all love to fail.
the TBI tests
the air horn comes right off.that huge pipe, and car runs with it off, unlike the G16b
and the injector can be eyeballed cranking, (a zero cost tests and fast)
my no start page covers all this.
see a non suzuki do same here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl...eHgh8#t=30
when you crank it , it must spray ,just like this. cone spray.
http://www.fixkick.com