90 Tracker died, burning smell in dash, won't run now...

[fixkick]

Thanks for the reply/info.

I didn't have time to look at it today, but I can give more info.

It is a 4wd 2dr convertible with 5spd manual. It has federal emissions, 1.6L TBI engine - the tag under the hood looks just like the 1990 Federal tag you posted.

The previous lighting failure was caused by a rust hole in the right front wheel well allowing salt spray directly onto the bottom of the fusible link (power distribution) box. The terminal on the white/yellow wire corroded and the end of the wire broke off, killing power to all the lights except for turn signals. The stock lighting runs off its own power feeds and will not effect the engine
that is if the damage is not in the fender box. seems your car is in the salt belt with all that rust, down here our car bodies last forever un-crashed.
SO no DRL , correct?
as seen here the green death from road salt.
http://www.fixkick.com/electrical-failure.html



Anyway, as far as wiring hacks from the previous owner, it had aftermarket fog lights. I removed most of that wiring previously, including the power feed. It also has aftermarket radio, clock, ammeter, and lighted visor mirror. The clock and radio memory wires, and the visor and ammeter lighting wires were "tapped" into the fuse box by inserting the bare end of the wire under fuse blades. Not a good way to do it. I plan to replace these with Add-A-Circuit fuse taps in the future.

Checking briefly tonight, the burned smell is still strong inside the car, and is definitely emanating from behind the dash. Inside the dash, I see a large plastic box below the ECM, zip tied to a harness. (sounds like an ALARM box hack)

There is also a small plastic box just right of the left speaker hole, just kinda hanging out, not secured.

Everything (lights, horn, a/c fan, etc.) is still functional.

I will check for DTCs tomorrow. Previously there were no DTCs but "12.."

I will also check for spark while it's trying to start. The old fashioned way to me means a carriage bolt in one of the spark plug boots, held close to the block... We shall see.
just use a real spark plug to test spark, no need to over load the spark system. use real plug, ground it.

Thanks,
Wes

the 90 has fast idle diode block not seen next year 91'+
and the 90 has unified main and fuel pump relay, (not cheap) and forms and odd logic.
the pump in this car does not run unless you crank it and these odd rules, unlike 91+
note the clutch switch actives 2nd coil, a must.

http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/89/89-pump-relay1.jpg

the clutch switch must close too, to get fuel.


look for aftermarket alarms. you will see massive wire cuts or cannibal slices. (both)
alarms like this can block spark , fuel or cranking or all 3. and best is to get it out of there. undo the damage.

the whole deal is here (the relay)
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/89/89-90schem1.jpg

the set.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/89/1990-scan-...lpages.pdf