"but to clarify.. cam gear (60a) at 6oclock (down is ok ) and crank at 12oclock (wrong)is #1 firing tdc,, it was 12 and 12," (12 and 12 is #4 firing)
12 and 12 is for belt installation only.
12 and 12, is #4 firing and wrong , the crank fires every 180degrees. cam every 90, the ratio is 2:1, crank to cam, exact ratio,
firing on #2, is (1,3,4,2 is the order) , #2 fires next after #4, so that works out to,
#2 is cam mark 60a to at 3pm. (90degrees from #4 see?) and crank mark at 6pm. (180deg from 5)
did you ever check to see if the coil >>> wire >> spark-plug , connected directly works, i will but when you see this work then you know the distributor is timed wrong.
the error you are making is not putting the engine at #1 firing, and then installing the distrib.
i can write instructions to time it on #4, its easy, but no point to it...
when timing the cam with a new belt its done at #4 firing.
1,3,4,2 then to get ready for the dizzy, you spin the crank 360degrees 1 full turn.Clockwise going 1 full turn skips #2 firing. see? landing on #1 firing.
btw ,you do know the spark test light strobe works fully well on a non running engine (pull fuel pump relay to cut fuel), if not, the distrib is timed way off.
here is my crude photo of the cam cog, (i must only assume the cam cog wheel was never removed from the cam, or the key can be wrong)
it can be confusing, firing order is 1,3,4,2 but after inserting the belt, order is 4,2,1,3 (due to now you begin at 4 not 1) see?
as you can see 60a (x) is at 6pm, and the crank is at TDC mark at 0deg 12pm) and 0 + 180 means crank is at 6pm marks down for 2 and 3 to fire.
![[Image: thewheeloffiring8v.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/thewheeloffiring8v.jpg)
study this cam wheel carefully, your post showed me that the cam was at #4 firing, this wrong for inserting the distrib.
if you had done that wrong at #4, then move all wires on the distib. and it will run. if you install wire#4 first. CW 4,2,1,3 order
this is why the blow test works, or compression gauge works so well ,it tells you, you have the wrong TDC,
or remove valve cover, to to find true #1 TDC, true TDC is #1 last loose. (if lash never gets loose, the engine valves will burn up)
or remove cam cover, #1 cam 60a is 6pm. down. totally. and crank at 12.
it is possible to time a distrib from #4 it's not hard, but means you blow test #4 or look at the cam wheel . but rotor should be at 5pm not 11pm.
see? doing it wrong, (and still right ) makes all other documents wrong, and painful.
11pm is #1 firing, this is the factory way, and all pages related to #1 firing use this page as starting point.
we can time it from#1 or #4
and be aware there are no crank marks for #2 and 3, so we'd never attempt that with out an attached crank shaft pulled DEGREE wheel attached.
why not just do it the book way?
crank mark up 12pm (means TDC #1 or 4 firing)
cam 60a mark down , lash on #1 is loose, cam lobe on #1 are on there heels.
then install distrib, with a real rotor, such that the rotor lands on 11pm mark you made on distrib body (body mark is the 11pm cap terminal for #1)
if real paranoid, (i trust zero so am) i then do all that with the dist cap off, and see if the STAR is wrong.
my comments are for real USA and Canada, 8v , G16a engine, not Europe as they of different distribs there.
or distrib p/n is. -56bxx distr, min is 56b10 this is the usa distrib. marked on the side,
also if some one removed the gear and put it on backwards all rotor location are now 180deg, off. (messing up rotor to star relation ships)
on modern cars none of this matter,s with a matched marks on flywheel and machined in place CKP sensor all this works like magic."precision"
on dizzy engines, all timing must correct or sparking will be dead wrong. (it is not flexible, it must correct)
my guess, right now, move all spark wires 180deg CW and it run. due to timing it on #4 and not 1
and that the that the crank key is good
and cam cog key is in the correct 60a slot, not the wrong key slot.
the correct cam key is
60a up, 12pm and key down for G16a
if keyed wrong,the cam is not keyed for the 3cylinder swift engine, DOOMed.
there are huge ways to get it wrong.
key wrong (swift engine timed) or missing keys,
cam belt timed wrong
distributor, gear removed, and now on wrong.
china rotors from hell. (2 ways wrong, 1 correct)
timing distr at #4 not at proper # 1. (at 11pm rotor location is factory way, for #1 firing, ) not locking at cam cog or lash (or lobes#1), to prove #1 is firing....
laying wires down wrong. wrong direction and wrong order.
yes, lots of pitfalls.
this photos above is on my lash page.
helps set lash using the suzuki cheaters way of setting lash with only 2 turns of crank. not 4.)
the above photo works for 16v, change 60a to "E"
cam key up is #1 firing.
yet another fact.
in fact, cam key up and crank key up is #1 firing. if not , it's all wrong and doomed.
all depends on what you can see (or saw), or not. at time the job is done.
all this is clear
this is #4 firing, it's totally clear. see that key,?
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/8v-cam-cog-close.jpg
nothing else matters cam wise. but proper lash.
if cam is timed wrong, compression falls to very low values. (common ways to do that, not all) 80psi is wrong.
12 and 12 is for belt installation only.
12 and 12, is #4 firing and wrong , the crank fires every 180degrees. cam every 90, the ratio is 2:1, crank to cam, exact ratio,
firing on #2, is (1,3,4,2 is the order) , #2 fires next after #4, so that works out to,
#2 is cam mark 60a to at 3pm. (90degrees from #4 see?) and crank mark at 6pm. (180deg from 5)
did you ever check to see if the coil >>> wire >> spark-plug , connected directly works, i will but when you see this work then you know the distributor is timed wrong.
the error you are making is not putting the engine at #1 firing, and then installing the distrib.
i can write instructions to time it on #4, its easy, but no point to it...
when timing the cam with a new belt its done at #4 firing.
1,3,4,2 then to get ready for the dizzy, you spin the crank 360degrees 1 full turn.Clockwise going 1 full turn skips #2 firing. see? landing on #1 firing.
btw ,you do know the spark test light strobe works fully well on a non running engine (pull fuel pump relay to cut fuel), if not, the distrib is timed way off.
here is my crude photo of the cam cog, (i must only assume the cam cog wheel was never removed from the cam, or the key can be wrong)
it can be confusing, firing order is 1,3,4,2 but after inserting the belt, order is 4,2,1,3 (due to now you begin at 4 not 1) see?
as you can see 60a (x) is at 6pm, and the crank is at TDC mark at 0deg 12pm) and 0 + 180 means crank is at 6pm marks down for 2 and 3 to fire.
study this cam wheel carefully, your post showed me that the cam was at #4 firing, this wrong for inserting the distrib.
if you had done that wrong at #4, then move all wires on the distib. and it will run. if you install wire#4 first. CW 4,2,1,3 order
this is why the blow test works, or compression gauge works so well ,it tells you, you have the wrong TDC,
or remove valve cover, to to find true #1 TDC, true TDC is #1 last loose. (if lash never gets loose, the engine valves will burn up)
or remove cam cover, #1 cam 60a is 6pm. down. totally. and crank at 12.
it is possible to time a distrib from #4 it's not hard, but means you blow test #4 or look at the cam wheel . but rotor should be at 5pm not 11pm.
see? doing it wrong, (and still right ) makes all other documents wrong, and painful.
11pm is #1 firing, this is the factory way, and all pages related to #1 firing use this page as starting point.
we can time it from#1 or #4
and be aware there are no crank marks for #2 and 3, so we'd never attempt that with out an attached crank shaft pulled DEGREE wheel attached.
why not just do it the book way?
crank mark up 12pm (means TDC #1 or 4 firing)
cam 60a mark down , lash on #1 is loose, cam lobe on #1 are on there heels.
then install distrib, with a real rotor, such that the rotor lands on 11pm mark you made on distrib body (body mark is the 11pm cap terminal for #1)
if real paranoid, (i trust zero so am) i then do all that with the dist cap off, and see if the STAR is wrong.
my comments are for real USA and Canada, 8v , G16a engine, not Europe as they of different distribs there.
or distrib p/n is. -56bxx distr, min is 56b10 this is the usa distrib. marked on the side,
also if some one removed the gear and put it on backwards all rotor location are now 180deg, off. (messing up rotor to star relation ships)
on modern cars none of this matter,s with a matched marks on flywheel and machined in place CKP sensor all this works like magic."precision"
on dizzy engines, all timing must correct or sparking will be dead wrong. (it is not flexible, it must correct)
my guess, right now, move all spark wires 180deg CW and it run. due to timing it on #4 and not 1
and that the that the crank key is good
and cam cog key is in the correct 60a slot, not the wrong key slot.
the correct cam key is
60a up, 12pm and key down for G16a
if keyed wrong,the cam is not keyed for the 3cylinder swift engine, DOOMed.
there are huge ways to get it wrong.
key wrong (swift engine timed) or missing keys,
cam belt timed wrong
distributor, gear removed, and now on wrong.
china rotors from hell. (2 ways wrong, 1 correct)
timing distr at #4 not at proper # 1. (at 11pm rotor location is factory way, for #1 firing, ) not locking at cam cog or lash (or lobes#1), to prove #1 is firing....
laying wires down wrong. wrong direction and wrong order.
yes, lots of pitfalls.
this photos above is on my lash page.
helps set lash using the suzuki cheaters way of setting lash with only 2 turns of crank. not 4.)
the above photo works for 16v, change 60a to "E"
cam key up is #1 firing.
yet another fact.
in fact, cam key up and crank key up is #1 firing. if not , it's all wrong and doomed.
all depends on what you can see (or saw), or not. at time the job is done.
all this is clear
this is #4 firing, it's totally clear. see that key,?
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/8v-cam-cog-close.jpg
nothing else matters cam wise. but proper lash.
if cam is timed wrong, compression falls to very low values. (common ways to do that, not all) 80psi is wrong.
http://www.fixkick.com