missed your posts sorry (lots of spam this week)
91 car, 91 ecu, right, i cant see car and know the levels of swaps on old cars.
G16a, engine, 8valve. all stock engine and ecu and harnesses, right? 1991 all.
the crank TDC is for #1 and 4. so if first TDC blows free, then that is not #1 its #4; turn crank 180degrees CW, one full turn, now the spark hole front, can not be mouth blown. facts.
if it can still blow easy, then the lash is wrong on #1 and will burn the valves fast.
60a 12pm is #4 firing (facts all facts of this cam, un bending facts)
60a at 6pm is #1 firing, all totally normal on 4 cylinder 1,3,4,2 engines.. (unlike boxer engines)
now we know the cam is timed correctly ,after all it must or the spark timing and running will be impossible.
the plug to coil is super easy, just a spark wire off car, say #4 removed, and spark plug there to coil directly. (id bet spark is 100% perfect now!!!)
super super easy, ground the spark shell just like all spark tests are done using a real spark plug (best is a fresh one, not 60k miles old)
if this test passes, i bet the ROTOR IS CRAP.
what do we know, cam is timed correctly!
compression above 150, good. proves above is good too.!
next we only need to get spark working correctly, you must again. get TDC #1 at the crank and the cam. firing #1 NOT 4
how to do that, is on find TDC page. blow tests (cheeks puff out is #1 firing) or use the compression gauge at #1, watch compression build as crank moves to TDC from BDC. this is true TDC #1 firing when compression maxs out, on all engines.
super easy to do that, with valve cover in place. no need to remove cam cover either.
what is next, ?
next, is get that dizzy planted correctly. so that the new rotor from Bosch points to #11oclock. (china rotors suck, id never own one, ever, no body needs this pain....)
now take off rotor and dust cover seen in photo above, see that. (after all ive no idea what parts you have , that are not stock)
then with distributor planted correctly show me a photo of your 4 star tone wheel.? as seen below, the dust cover is not optional (rule 10?)
this will tell me , yes Bosch fits(it will) or the china crap rotor IS wrong, 3 don't fit in to 4 at all, 3ways and 4 stars, dig? <hotel hell i call this)
if the rotor is right the star aligns correctly, every time.
if not?, not.
i revised this just for you, its no where else this photo , see the star trip point? and the horror if not?
see this tone wheel, star wheel? this makes the spark, and must not be wrong, if the rotor is china crap, it can be worng 2 ways. and correct 1 way only.
the bosch only fits one way, and means i dont have to tell you all these details of the STAR, see? (but is ok, )
ive seen crap rotors with no steel spring clip on bottom of ROTOR this is JUNK.
why not buy a real rotor. and not fool about using junk parts.?
the rotor dizzy shaft has a long flat. only this flat tells you where the tip goes if hell bent on using crap rotors.
if this is correct, and the star is correct, and crank marke is at TDC #1 and valves closed on #1 and the rotor at 11oclock and the wires laid down like below, then it runs. (and star pointing correctly too.) The star deal is not covered in any books, because they assume, that you buy OE certified parts.
this photo is clear, no way to confuse this....
the wires are layed down like this, only this way
since the rotor turns CW, (clock wise) that star tip, you can see, that the leading edge of that STAR, files the coil.
well not really, it tells the ecu to charge the coil(there), and the ECU releases the coil in 2mS (Dwell), and it fires then, to be exact.
using the wrong rotor, is pure hell.
if you move my arrow i made (my pretend rotor) and move it to the wrong flats, you see why the spark will be hopeless.
that is because the rotor will at 1# firing but firing does not happen at all, until later, dead wrong. this is why BOSCH says OUR PARTS FIT,
cuz they do
and so does, BECK and Delco fit.
but not MR, SOM TING WONG.
now we have a fix , not covered in any book on earth, how to fit up wrong rotors.
and will fire ok , with rotor aligned with any leading edge of any star, after all the star no ecu can know which star is used.
only the trigger point matters, and that the wire routing is correct from cap.
that is why the distributor can be timed 4 ways to 4 cap terms. it's cant tell you did that.
the 2 other flats wrong. causes.
wrong 1, fires way too late
wrong 2, fires way too soon,
this causes the spark to jump inside the cap a huge distance (1/2 inch?), causing the most odd spark effects imaginable. weak and intermittent.
seen like 100s of posts on just this topic in 10 years.
its not new.
its only new to folks buying parts on fleabay (junk)
and double wrong
if the rotor is wrong
then the distrubutor is now planted wrong, it not really 11oclock and is dead wrong. 2 ways from sunday.
yes, double hotel hell ,
and also means if the rotor is corrected after the pLANT,
then its still 1 way dead wrong
the fun never ends on wrong. with distributors, we have more, someone removed the gear... .omg,....
the dust cap must not be missing
why
because it keeps spark from ever reaching the CKP and blowing up the CKP and ECU in 1 nanoseconds.
it's not a dust cover only....
i blind here, so can see whats really there.
91 car, 91 ecu, right, i cant see car and know the levels of swaps on old cars.
G16a, engine, 8valve. all stock engine and ecu and harnesses, right? 1991 all.
the crank TDC is for #1 and 4. so if first TDC blows free, then that is not #1 its #4; turn crank 180degrees CW, one full turn, now the spark hole front, can not be mouth blown. facts.
if it can still blow easy, then the lash is wrong on #1 and will burn the valves fast.
60a 12pm is #4 firing (facts all facts of this cam, un bending facts)
60a at 6pm is #1 firing, all totally normal on 4 cylinder 1,3,4,2 engines.. (unlike boxer engines)
now we know the cam is timed correctly ,after all it must or the spark timing and running will be impossible.
the plug to coil is super easy, just a spark wire off car, say #4 removed, and spark plug there to coil directly. (id bet spark is 100% perfect now!!!)
super super easy, ground the spark shell just like all spark tests are done using a real spark plug (best is a fresh one, not 60k miles old)
if this test passes, i bet the ROTOR IS CRAP.
what do we know, cam is timed correctly!
compression above 150, good. proves above is good too.!
next we only need to get spark working correctly, you must again. get TDC #1 at the crank and the cam. firing #1 NOT 4
how to do that, is on find TDC page. blow tests (cheeks puff out is #1 firing) or use the compression gauge at #1, watch compression build as crank moves to TDC from BDC. this is true TDC #1 firing when compression maxs out, on all engines.
super easy to do that, with valve cover in place. no need to remove cam cover either.
what is next, ?
next, is get that dizzy planted correctly. so that the new rotor from Bosch points to #11oclock. (china rotors suck, id never own one, ever, no body needs this pain....)
now take off rotor and dust cover seen in photo above, see that. (after all ive no idea what parts you have , that are not stock)
then with distributor planted correctly show me a photo of your 4 star tone wheel.? as seen below, the dust cover is not optional (rule 10?)
this will tell me , yes Bosch fits(it will) or the china crap rotor IS wrong, 3 don't fit in to 4 at all, 3ways and 4 stars, dig? <hotel hell i call this)
if the rotor is right the star aligns correctly, every time.
if not?, not.
i revised this just for you, its no where else this photo , see the star trip point? and the horror if not?
see this tone wheel, star wheel? this makes the spark, and must not be wrong, if the rotor is china crap, it can be worng 2 ways. and correct 1 way only.
the bosch only fits one way, and means i dont have to tell you all these details of the STAR, see? (but is ok, )
ive seen crap rotors with no steel spring clip on bottom of ROTOR this is JUNK.
why not buy a real rotor. and not fool about using junk parts.?
the rotor dizzy shaft has a long flat. only this flat tells you where the tip goes if hell bent on using crap rotors.
if this is correct, and the star is correct, and crank marke is at TDC #1 and valves closed on #1 and the rotor at 11oclock and the wires laid down like below, then it runs. (and star pointing correctly too.) The star deal is not covered in any books, because they assume, that you buy OE certified parts.
this photo is clear, no way to confuse this....
the wires are layed down like this, only this way
since the rotor turns CW, (clock wise) that star tip, you can see, that the leading edge of that STAR, files the coil.
well not really, it tells the ecu to charge the coil(there), and the ECU releases the coil in 2mS (Dwell), and it fires then, to be exact.
using the wrong rotor, is pure hell.
if you move my arrow i made (my pretend rotor) and move it to the wrong flats, you see why the spark will be hopeless.
that is because the rotor will at 1# firing but firing does not happen at all, until later, dead wrong. this is why BOSCH says OUR PARTS FIT,
cuz they do
and so does, BECK and Delco fit.
but not MR, SOM TING WONG.
now we have a fix , not covered in any book on earth, how to fit up wrong rotors.
and will fire ok , with rotor aligned with any leading edge of any star, after all the star no ecu can know which star is used.
only the trigger point matters, and that the wire routing is correct from cap.
that is why the distributor can be timed 4 ways to 4 cap terms. it's cant tell you did that.
the 2 other flats wrong. causes.
wrong 1, fires way too late
wrong 2, fires way too soon,
this causes the spark to jump inside the cap a huge distance (1/2 inch?), causing the most odd spark effects imaginable. weak and intermittent.
seen like 100s of posts on just this topic in 10 years.
its not new.
its only new to folks buying parts on fleabay (junk)
and double wrong
if the rotor is wrong
then the distrubutor is now planted wrong, it not really 11oclock and is dead wrong. 2 ways from sunday.
yes, double hotel hell ,
and also means if the rotor is corrected after the pLANT,
then its still 1 way dead wrong
the fun never ends on wrong. with distributors, we have more, someone removed the gear... .omg,....
the dust cap must not be missing
why
because it keeps spark from ever reaching the CKP and blowing up the CKP and ECU in 1 nanoseconds.
it's not a dust cover only....
i blind here, so can see whats really there.
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