ok, good, im at 500 ft so we are both low, all my readings are at 500ft.
do you have this hose??
the 6mm ISO thread, fits this.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/TBI-conn-1w.jpg
a clogged fiter will read over, rail pressure. and as high as 55psi shunt pressure.
good question, the valve in the FPR can leak at different rates at different vacuums.
when you cut the key the leak rate in the FPR is at zero vacuum. (not a wear point here, its frozen here parked, unless towed to pikes peak, lol)
when you start the engine the FPR is now operating the valve in the 20 year,wear zone..(torture zone) and can be too much, leaking.
after, all only, it sets pressures as all engine loads.(load = vacuum)
my chart based on sealevel real measurements. is only complex due to the 3 vacuum gages uses world wide, HG, BAR and KPA.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/PUMP/re...-mpi-g.jpg
your key on is ok, 38psi, very good.
your
hot idle pressure = 28psi constant. (seems ok, its near 30, hot engine, idle not varying, and normal vacuum is 20 inches)
gunning the throttle makes 30-32psi for an instant then falls back down to ~28psi.
most car gunned, will hit 36 easy, but takes aggressive throttle action for 1 second WOT,
better is the usage for a hand vacuum pump, where we can get all those engine variables out of the picture.
start engine, and pull the vac line , see 36 psi. then quickly (we know yours does 38 already so skip this)
and pump fast to 20inches HC so the rich fuel don't hurt your CAT. see 30 psi
then pump it now pump up 26"inches HG ( see 21psi.)
this checks all 3 points. by hand,
if wrong normal driving check vacuum driving. and at idle.
what to watch for is inconsistency, FPR this old can be good in 1min and bad next, and repeats due to super warn out FPR , inside, or cracks in diaphram that seem to seal now then fail next, repeat.
do you have this hose??
the 6mm ISO thread, fits this.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/TBI-conn-1w.jpg
a clogged fiter will read over, rail pressure. and as high as 55psi shunt pressure.
good question, the valve in the FPR can leak at different rates at different vacuums.
when you cut the key the leak rate in the FPR is at zero vacuum. (not a wear point here, its frozen here parked, unless towed to pikes peak, lol)
when you start the engine the FPR is now operating the valve in the 20 year,wear zone..(torture zone) and can be too much, leaking.
after, all only, it sets pressures as all engine loads.(load = vacuum)
my chart based on sealevel real measurements. is only complex due to the 3 vacuum gages uses world wide, HG, BAR and KPA.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/PUMP/re...-mpi-g.jpg
your key on is ok, 38psi, very good.
your
hot idle pressure = 28psi constant. (seems ok, its near 30, hot engine, idle not varying, and normal vacuum is 20 inches)
gunning the throttle makes 30-32psi for an instant then falls back down to ~28psi.
most car gunned, will hit 36 easy, but takes aggressive throttle action for 1 second WOT,
better is the usage for a hand vacuum pump, where we can get all those engine variables out of the picture.
start engine, and pull the vac line , see 36 psi. then quickly (we know yours does 38 already so skip this)
and pump fast to 20inches HC so the rich fuel don't hurt your CAT. see 30 psi
then pump it now pump up 26"inches HG ( see 21psi.)
this checks all 3 points. by hand,
if wrong normal driving check vacuum driving. and at idle.
what to watch for is inconsistency, FPR this old can be good in 1min and bad next, and repeats due to super warn out FPR , inside, or cracks in diaphram that seem to seal now then fail next, repeat.
http://www.fixkick.com