99% of most people their auto service shop decides this, or may off a list of choices of oil.(or worse the quick lube shops (not name , but generic) use bulk oil that is not as claimed, see API warnings,,,in the news.
see warnings here. (MOM sections)
http://www.aa1car.com/library/motor_oil_605.htm
in most cases it don't even matter, what matters most is they went there, before the oil is bad, or full of dirt.
the oil does get dirty, for many reasons, carbon bits, and sand grit sucked in past that K/N.
the other %1 are the more risky..
1: they buy what the TV guy said to buy.
2: what "some autos store clerk said" (he gets spiffs and commissions...so....)
3: a pure religion, of brand, loyalty. (avoid all conversations here. , anger can rear it;'s ugly head, but not me, no oil company loyalty here.)
4: then others go a bit wild , into a near paranoia , sector , running the most expensive synthetic oil they can find, some are super expensive. and GOOD.
5: Don't ask me ,i'm in the change oil often camp, and any brand works. LOL and any 10w-30 runs and lasts 300k miles (changed regularly) or more... many do.
6: omg, those running oil 20,000 miles because some synthetic oil maker said , it lasts this long....
7: picking oil just on one factor, lower carbon foot print, see #3...
the real question is this, is 16valve, which oil sold, does not do like seen below, back in 1998, are there oils, that still do this bad thing>?
are you willing to bet engine on this guess?
see that 16v notch and warning, bob the oil guy tells you, this is gone now..... but is it? , can anyone say that, for all brands, and dino/syn/blends.>? its GONE ?
my guess? (FWIW) is that in 89-98' the 5w-30 oil , when over 3000 miles old, would not make 30w spec, at 212F, hot, due to shear effects. if truth, many syn oils do not do this, thing, (but some do)
So if some DO shear still, then which ones DON'T?, (ask your friendly oil engineer)
This Suzuki warning is about the CAM. (and 8 extra valves and lobes), my guess is they had cam failures, and the cam has no bearings, its just machined aluminum. and tend be loose after 20 years, and rebuilt heads you dont get good clearances here, just so-so...
the limit here is .0047 " (huge) so if .0046 the head is a good core.
so if all bearing leak bad here, tell me how much oil gets there, and keeps pressure high, past the head oil gallery "orifice plug", 0.050" in diameter, i bet this is the cause of Suzuki engineer worry here. IMO.
try to understand the engineer spec'd. the oil not just on new engines, but for the life of engine... (a whole other matter, if you think about bearing wear, and with really hot oil, and the vast array of bottles SOLD OTC)
Oil temps can go as high as 250F , on a hot day.... this is where you need to focus, this is the limit of Dino oils, (many) and syn. goes 300f easy. (most times oil is near 180F or 200F (thermostat temp)
but not always.
the 2 numbers that matter here, are HTHS Viscosity, (the 100C and 150C{302F}) rating. ASTM- D4683. "2.6" is the minimum for 30 grade (the key facts you need hot)
many oils back in 90s did not pass the 4683 test. and that is what i think caused the below warning.... IMO (note that , some 0w-40 pass this spec !)
as seen here.
http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oil...lained.htm
![[Image: oil-spec95.JPG]](http://www.fixkick.com/specs/oil-spec95.JPG)
so look up your bottle of oil and read the data sheet on that oil (all oil makers offer it for free, all do, or RUN !)
ASTM- D4683.
here is one SHEET and that passes this spec. and is sold at walmart at $26 a jug. (5qt)
http://pds.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/P...5W-30.aspx
see warnings here. (MOM sections)
http://www.aa1car.com/library/motor_oil_605.htm
in most cases it don't even matter, what matters most is they went there, before the oil is bad, or full of dirt.
the oil does get dirty, for many reasons, carbon bits, and sand grit sucked in past that K/N.
the other %1 are the more risky..
1: they buy what the TV guy said to buy.
2: what "some autos store clerk said" (he gets spiffs and commissions...so....)
3: a pure religion, of brand, loyalty. (avoid all conversations here. , anger can rear it;'s ugly head, but not me, no oil company loyalty here.)
4: then others go a bit wild , into a near paranoia , sector , running the most expensive synthetic oil they can find, some are super expensive. and GOOD.
5: Don't ask me ,i'm in the change oil often camp, and any brand works. LOL and any 10w-30 runs and lasts 300k miles (changed regularly) or more... many do.
6: omg, those running oil 20,000 miles because some synthetic oil maker said , it lasts this long....
7: picking oil just on one factor, lower carbon foot print, see #3...
the real question is this, is 16valve, which oil sold, does not do like seen below, back in 1998, are there oils, that still do this bad thing>?
are you willing to bet engine on this guess?
see that 16v notch and warning, bob the oil guy tells you, this is gone now..... but is it? , can anyone say that, for all brands, and dino/syn/blends.>? its GONE ?
my guess? (FWIW) is that in 89-98' the 5w-30 oil , when over 3000 miles old, would not make 30w spec, at 212F, hot, due to shear effects. if truth, many syn oils do not do this, thing, (but some do)
So if some DO shear still, then which ones DON'T?, (ask your friendly oil engineer)
This Suzuki warning is about the CAM. (and 8 extra valves and lobes), my guess is they had cam failures, and the cam has no bearings, its just machined aluminum. and tend be loose after 20 years, and rebuilt heads you dont get good clearances here, just so-so...
the limit here is .0047 " (huge) so if .0046 the head is a good core.
so if all bearing leak bad here, tell me how much oil gets there, and keeps pressure high, past the head oil gallery "orifice plug", 0.050" in diameter, i bet this is the cause of Suzuki engineer worry here. IMO.
try to understand the engineer spec'd. the oil not just on new engines, but for the life of engine... (a whole other matter, if you think about bearing wear, and with really hot oil, and the vast array of bottles SOLD OTC)
Oil temps can go as high as 250F , on a hot day.... this is where you need to focus, this is the limit of Dino oils, (many) and syn. goes 300f easy. (most times oil is near 180F or 200F (thermostat temp)
but not always.
the 2 numbers that matter here, are HTHS Viscosity, (the 100C and 150C{302F}) rating. ASTM- D4683. "2.6" is the minimum for 30 grade (the key facts you need hot)
many oils back in 90s did not pass the 4683 test. and that is what i think caused the below warning.... IMO (note that , some 0w-40 pass this spec !)
as seen here.
http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oil...lained.htm
so look up your bottle of oil and read the data sheet on that oil (all oil makers offer it for free, all do, or RUN !)
ASTM- D4683.
here is one SHEET and that passes this spec. and is sold at walmart at $26 a jug. (5qt)
http://pds.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/P...5W-30.aspx
http://www.fixkick.com