wow, wow and again wow!
first things first, THANKS a bunch for your time and effort in helping me.
i bought this car used in a bad shape and have done many things to tune it up (with very good success so far i think).
now, lets cut to the chase:
1.at +15Celcius, you think that an engine racing at 2300rpm is normal? because thats what mine did (it has ~200k miles on it) before i PARTIALLY blocked the IAC. now it cold starts at ~1500rpm rather than ~2300rpm.
2.regarding the 'rich event': it happened every time before i lied via the ECT. i could tell by my...nose! i literally could smeel unburnt fuel on cold starts for a few minutes. this effect was drastically reduced once i used that 2k ohm resistor. what it does (i know you know this already
), is it makes the ECU think its about 35C instead of 15C. when on operating temps (85C), the difference between reality and ECT reporting temperature is minor to negligible (non-linear thermistor it is).
3.the reason i added the resistor is because i partially blocked the IAC (to compensate for the less air allowed). i am not sure (i need your input on this) what the ECU does in open-loop; especially on cold-starts. does it inject based on MAF input and ECT readings only? if yes, then why blocking (completely) the IAC makes the engine go rich? (since IAC is legal induction -MAF monitored). shouldn`t the ECU compensate automatically for a blocked IAC and spray less fuel?
4.yes, my injectors are the next thing i need to look upon. along with the FPR and valve lash. i have already ordered a gauge with an adapter to fit on the fuel rail line and check what the FPR (and fuel pump) is up to. my injectors look like nippon-denso brand and (desperately i think) could use some cleaning. just need to find some facility that does injectors in my area (not too easy).
5.my IAC closes completely right at 155F (measured with IR gun). my thermostat is genuine suzuki 82C with CORRECT gasket ring (and some RTV 
). works like a charm. goes to operating temp within 3-5 minutes. upper rad hose doesn`t even get hot before thermostat goes to ~82C. very few thermal losses there. stock clutch fan discarded, SPAL 16" fan attached. fan switch (via relay to the fan) placed at top rad hose and opens at 90C (where the thermostat is almost wide open and the rad has gone hot -even down to the bottom). cluster temp gauge gets slightly above medium before fan kicks in and falls slight below medium when fan shuts off (~84C). fan never comes on even when cruising as slow as 40km/h (about 25mph). whole cooling system has been flushed 5 times within a week and fresh 50/50 coolant was filled. all gunk,debris and rust is out and gone. all large hoses are new.
6. spark plugs (NGK iridium), spark wires (Beru), dizzy cap and rotor (Bosch), cluster temp sender, radiator, heater core, hoses, thermostat, water pump, timing belt, suspension springs, shock absorbers, wheels & tires, and lots of other (smaller) bits were replaced with new ones, along with a complete brakes overhaul and lots of bodywork and painting.
what remains is transmission rebuilding (noise when neutral and on 3rd gear;must be a bad bearing(s) or worse), injectors`clean-up, FPR, and valve lash check-up. i also need to check that 17mm bolt on camshaft (do i even spell this properly?).
first things first, THANKS a bunch for your time and effort in helping me.
i bought this car used in a bad shape and have done many things to tune it up (with very good success so far i think).
now, lets cut to the chase:
1.at +15Celcius, you think that an engine racing at 2300rpm is normal? because thats what mine did (it has ~200k miles on it) before i PARTIALLY blocked the IAC. now it cold starts at ~1500rpm rather than ~2300rpm.
2.regarding the 'rich event': it happened every time before i lied via the ECT. i could tell by my...nose! i literally could smeel unburnt fuel on cold starts for a few minutes. this effect was drastically reduced once i used that 2k ohm resistor. what it does (i know you know this already
), is it makes the ECU think its about 35C instead of 15C. when on operating temps (85C), the difference between reality and ECT reporting temperature is minor to negligible (non-linear thermistor it is).3.the reason i added the resistor is because i partially blocked the IAC (to compensate for the less air allowed). i am not sure (i need your input on this) what the ECU does in open-loop; especially on cold-starts. does it inject based on MAF input and ECT readings only? if yes, then why blocking (completely) the IAC makes the engine go rich? (since IAC is legal induction -MAF monitored). shouldn`t the ECU compensate automatically for a blocked IAC and spray less fuel?
4.yes, my injectors are the next thing i need to look upon. along with the FPR and valve lash. i have already ordered a gauge with an adapter to fit on the fuel rail line and check what the FPR (and fuel pump) is up to. my injectors look like nippon-denso brand and (desperately i think) could use some cleaning. just need to find some facility that does injectors in my area (not too easy).
5.my IAC closes completely right at 155F (measured with IR gun).
my thermostat is genuine suzuki 82C with CORRECT gasket ring (and some RTV ). works like a charm. goes to operating temp within 3-5 minutes. upper rad hose doesn`t even get hot before thermostat goes to ~82C. very few thermal losses there. stock clutch fan discarded, SPAL 16" fan attached. fan switch (via relay to the fan) placed at top rad hose and opens at 90C (where the thermostat is almost wide open and the rad has gone hot -even down to the bottom). cluster temp gauge gets slightly above medium before fan kicks in and falls slight below medium when fan shuts off (~84C). fan never comes on even when cruising as slow as 40km/h (about 25mph). whole cooling system has been flushed 5 times within a week and fresh 50/50 coolant was filled. all gunk,debris and rust is out and gone. all large hoses are new.6. spark plugs (NGK iridium), spark wires (Beru), dizzy cap and rotor (Bosch), cluster temp sender, radiator, heater core, hoses, thermostat, water pump, timing belt, suspension springs, shock absorbers, wheels & tires, and lots of other (smaller) bits were replaced with new ones, along with a complete brakes overhaul and lots of bodywork and painting.
what remains is transmission rebuilding (noise when neutral and on 3rd gear;must be a bad bearing(s) or worse), injectors`clean-up, FPR, and valve lash check-up. i also need to check that 17mm bolt on camshaft (do i even spell this properly?).