10-01-2013, 12:51 AM
odd how P030x are not stored?, or in pending, watch the pendings carefully on 4wd cars, as the misfire monitor is , detuned for offroad.
there should not be a fuel smell. unless...
that smacks of RICH misfire, flooding... (not TPS glitching to zero and lean)
this sounds like rich misfire or spark dropout , the latter does throw fuel the tail pipe. (rich misfire,is lost spark or out of control injection rates, pure rich) ECT at 180F,
the misfire cold and hot, tells me, its rich misfire. should be worse cold. rich+illegal rich, cold nets, huge rich.
A scan tool run live , when running car and moving will help here. you can see all the sensor data. and pendings popping in then off?
loss of power, is it bogging or misfiring, misfiring can always be felt. bogging is fuel starvation and is like towing a 2000 brick , linear, loss of power, not violent.
misfire is like running a chain saw with a bad spark plug.... heard and felt.
gradually there are no problems.
does this mean you have full power up a hill WOT> that puts max load on the injectors, and fuel pump and MAF; and acid test. for can I get full injections rates.
was ECU in closed loop before , you tipped in the throttle fast?
was LTFT looking good , at cruise, -4% not -40 or +40%
I have a scope and can find a bad TPS in a heart beat. that is why I mention Mr.Warrens tricks, Scopes see the error, but you can force the TPS signal to good and see the ECU wake up.
All sensors can be simulated, (no 02) but all the important ones. ECT,IAT,FAM,mAP, TPS.
watch for pending CKP or CMP errors. DTC 355 and 340? OTTOMH. any pendings at all, are worrysome.
pendings means , a failure I'M ignoring, (ecu is the IM)
the other trick is easy, per ASE or motormag doctrine.
if lean add fuel.
if rich?, add air.
at idle we add propane , if moving we can do that trick too. its not hard,just a hose added to a propane tortch, nozzle removed, hose on, crack the valve at the right moment.
add air. this is always easy, make a leak,
there are 4 or more vacuum lines, pull one and you have a leak.
can be done on the fly too. (helpers. make this oh so easy)
spark is first. if spark fails all other things are useless. fuel, air, good engine. all just windows dressing.
the spark must happen or the fuel can not burn. (otto cycle)
i have driven cars , many with a timing light duct taped to the hood or window of said car.
i drive, with the trigger duct tapped, on ...... flashing full time. (duct tape rules my life...???)
i drive, it misfires, , light looks happy.
i move the mag pickup to spark wire #2, and repeat, 4 times.
this is not an acid test , the spark can be weak and the light will flash, happy as a clam..... the test does add value..... if it fails. its a god send. to any diagnosis.
You had many distributor failures.
are you sure they are all corrected 100%
the rotor must not be firing between posts, no illegal , China rotors that do that nasty trick, the rotor must go on one way or all bets of.
1 way works perfect.
1 other way, the spark is dead.
1 other way, it misfires.
the side connector must be good and pins fit perfectly.
lest me explain the rotor tip the cmp reluctor star, device relation ship.
if you time the engine , this puts the cmp at the firing point, but if the rotor is wrong, it fires to the wrong cap point. (in one wrong case, spark must jump a huge distance..in the cap.. )
I played with one , doing it all wrong to see what would happen, it's a real bad deal.
the cMP star, is hard machined to the rotor mount, this is 100% fixed. and can not be changed. getting the rotor right, is a top deal here.
i keep mentioning this because there are 1000 of posts. from those that buy fleabay $2 rotors, and are not buying BOSCH. or better..
sorry if all that is sorted. but i think spark is bad. still. new stock spark plugs gapped at 0.028" or near) and no funny type plugs. real J plugs.factory type.
there should not be a fuel smell. unless...
that smacks of RICH misfire, flooding... (not TPS glitching to zero and lean)
this sounds like rich misfire or spark dropout , the latter does throw fuel the tail pipe. (rich misfire,is lost spark or out of control injection rates, pure rich) ECT at 180F,
the misfire cold and hot, tells me, its rich misfire. should be worse cold. rich+illegal rich, cold nets, huge rich.
A scan tool run live , when running car and moving will help here. you can see all the sensor data. and pendings popping in then off?
loss of power, is it bogging or misfiring, misfiring can always be felt. bogging is fuel starvation and is like towing a 2000 brick , linear, loss of power, not violent.
misfire is like running a chain saw with a bad spark plug.... heard and felt.
gradually there are no problems.
does this mean you have full power up a hill WOT> that puts max load on the injectors, and fuel pump and MAF; and acid test. for can I get full injections rates.
was ECU in closed loop before , you tipped in the throttle fast?
was LTFT looking good , at cruise, -4% not -40 or +40%
I have a scope and can find a bad TPS in a heart beat. that is why I mention Mr.Warrens tricks, Scopes see the error, but you can force the TPS signal to good and see the ECU wake up.
All sensors can be simulated, (no 02) but all the important ones. ECT,IAT,FAM,mAP, TPS.
watch for pending CKP or CMP errors. DTC 355 and 340? OTTOMH. any pendings at all, are worrysome.
pendings means , a failure I'M ignoring, (ecu is the IM)
the other trick is easy, per ASE or motormag doctrine.
if lean add fuel.
if rich?, add air.
at idle we add propane , if moving we can do that trick too. its not hard,just a hose added to a propane tortch, nozzle removed, hose on, crack the valve at the right moment.
add air. this is always easy, make a leak,
there are 4 or more vacuum lines, pull one and you have a leak.
can be done on the fly too. (helpers. make this oh so easy)
spark is first. if spark fails all other things are useless. fuel, air, good engine. all just windows dressing.
the spark must happen or the fuel can not burn. (otto cycle)
i have driven cars , many with a timing light duct taped to the hood or window of said car.
i drive, with the trigger duct tapped, on ...... flashing full time. (duct tape rules my life...???)
i drive, it misfires, , light looks happy.
i move the mag pickup to spark wire #2, and repeat, 4 times.
this is not an acid test , the spark can be weak and the light will flash, happy as a clam..... the test does add value..... if it fails. its a god send. to any diagnosis.
You had many distributor failures.
are you sure they are all corrected 100%
the rotor must not be firing between posts, no illegal , China rotors that do that nasty trick, the rotor must go on one way or all bets of.
1 way works perfect.
1 other way, the spark is dead.
1 other way, it misfires.
the side connector must be good and pins fit perfectly.
lest me explain the rotor tip the cmp reluctor star, device relation ship.
if you time the engine , this puts the cmp at the firing point, but if the rotor is wrong, it fires to the wrong cap point. (in one wrong case, spark must jump a huge distance..in the cap.. )
I played with one , doing it all wrong to see what would happen, it's a real bad deal.
the cMP star, is hard machined to the rotor mount, this is 100% fixed. and can not be changed. getting the rotor right, is a top deal here.
i keep mentioning this because there are 1000 of posts. from those that buy fleabay $2 rotors, and are not buying BOSCH. or better..
sorry if all that is sorted. but i think spark is bad. still. new stock spark plugs gapped at 0.028" or near) and no funny type plugs. real J plugs.factory type.
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