03-28-2016, 11:03 PM
good, to know now, that and ECU not in limphome mode. (the ecu can get lost)
the cat tests is easy.
use a standard, shop vacuum gauge. most the good onces have a CARB fuel pressure, side.
this side does 0 to 15PSI accurately
sold in all stores here. usa, see right side scale here, 15kPa max? is 2psi.
http://www.fixkick.com/tools/vactool1.jpg
remove the O2 (best is a new one after 100k miles)
start engine and check pressure,at 2500 rpm (FSM Spec) and must be less that, what it said on my cat test page. FSM States: 2.8 psi max 2500 RPM max. at 02 bung fitting.?
newer Suzuki books 1999+ state 2PSI max.
same too can do vacuum and see it go crazy with bad cat.(melted)
low engine power has 3 factors. (#2 you dont have)
1: low engine compression, (cam belt slipped.) or cat clogged.
2: cant be EGR you dont have one. market 56.
3: bad spark , timed wrong or weak spark and engine misfires. does it? this is a key step a mech. checks first.. felt or heard misfiring... (a fix first symptom)
4: fueling bad (huge list if checks starting with fuel pressure and FPR tests. ECU inputs wrong. next.
one easy test for fueling, is what is your MAF output at keyon, idle and gunned.??????? per my MAF page (fsm and my live dynamic testing)
easy tests. ?
drive car, get it hot, stop in your drive way /garage, remove spark plug #1 (easy one) is it black on the ends, if yes, are all 4 black? (ever try a new 02?)
MAF.
cat back pressure. test pass?
ECT read 300 ohms hot.?
cylinder compression over 150psi? x4.?
FPR vacuum nipple dripping fuel. (fpr bad , 1second test)?
fuel pressure at spec.? (my pump page)
FPR 3 point pressure tests? pass? key on 3 times test, the idle test , then W.O.T? test (PSI tests)
Injector leak down test pass? (super easy) key on 3 time, then off and count drop rate... super easy, with the tool.
NOT SO: (easy)
and last the most hard test of all. injector balance testing. covered in FSM and my injector page.
ECU not in limphome mode
but it it can get lost with wrong inputs
one example is why too high fuel pressure or bad 02 or any exhaust leaks near the 02.
the ECU gets lost, its trying to get STOICH, AFR, fuel mix but can't and sticks rich.
on pre OBD2 cars, they stick richer,,,when lost.
the old ECU's only report, dead sensors.
so if inputs to ecu are not dead, but still dead wrong, then NO DTC are set. (case in point a weak,MAF, but is not dead, engine goes lean and bogs, and huge loss of power)
but fueling rates are wrong, non the less.
can bog? lean.
or misfire, rich, id have to drive to to tell the difference there.
hope that helps...!!!
the cat tests is easy.
use a standard, shop vacuum gauge. most the good onces have a CARB fuel pressure, side.
this side does 0 to 15PSI accurately
sold in all stores here. usa, see right side scale here, 15kPa max? is 2psi.
http://www.fixkick.com/tools/vactool1.jpg
remove the O2 (best is a new one after 100k miles)
start engine and check pressure,at 2500 rpm (FSM Spec) and must be less that, what it said on my cat test page. FSM States: 2.8 psi max 2500 RPM max. at 02 bung fitting.?
newer Suzuki books 1999+ state 2PSI max.
same too can do vacuum and see it go crazy with bad cat.(melted)
low engine power has 3 factors. (#2 you dont have)
1: low engine compression, (cam belt slipped.) or cat clogged.
2: cant be EGR you dont have one. market 56.
3: bad spark , timed wrong or weak spark and engine misfires. does it? this is a key step a mech. checks first.. felt or heard misfiring... (a fix first symptom)
4: fueling bad (huge list if checks starting with fuel pressure and FPR tests. ECU inputs wrong. next.
one easy test for fueling, is what is your MAF output at keyon, idle and gunned.??????? per my MAF page (fsm and my live dynamic testing)
easy tests. ?
drive car, get it hot, stop in your drive way /garage, remove spark plug #1 (easy one) is it black on the ends, if yes, are all 4 black? (ever try a new 02?)
MAF.
cat back pressure. test pass?
ECT read 300 ohms hot.?
cylinder compression over 150psi? x4.?
FPR vacuum nipple dripping fuel. (fpr bad , 1second test)?
fuel pressure at spec.? (my pump page)
FPR 3 point pressure tests? pass? key on 3 times test, the idle test , then W.O.T? test (PSI tests)
Injector leak down test pass? (super easy) key on 3 time, then off and count drop rate... super easy, with the tool.
NOT SO: (easy)
and last the most hard test of all. injector balance testing. covered in FSM and my injector page.
ECU not in limphome mode
but it it can get lost with wrong inputs
one example is why too high fuel pressure or bad 02 or any exhaust leaks near the 02.
the ECU gets lost, its trying to get STOICH, AFR, fuel mix but can't and sticks rich.
on pre OBD2 cars, they stick richer,,,when lost.
the old ECU's only report, dead sensors.
so if inputs to ecu are not dead, but still dead wrong, then NO DTC are set. (case in point a weak,MAF, but is not dead, engine goes lean and bogs, and huge loss of power)
but fueling rates are wrong, non the less.
can bog? lean.
or misfire, rich, id have to drive to to tell the difference there.
hope that helps...!!!
http://www.fixkick.com