yes, that is clogged. very bad that. it its a First order failure !
back to water flow dead, and why not to ignore this.
see my diagram.
see how i added the 3 missing parts to the suzuki drawing?
first see the start of flow, at the left red dot, under the thermostat housing below, the manifold
this most not be clogged first.
note carefully they water flows in a series path , see that?
and if 1 device (red objects) clogs. all 3 things there go dead.
THE KEY object there is IAC, if it goes dead, it sticks open
if it sticks open the ECU will go nuts, after all its not programmed to handle that gross failure.
The RPM races, is the first clue.
if it goes to limphome, the power is lost if not in limphome mode. then there are other failures.
never seen one of these cars with out, many failures. all ignored
now more, sure, if the engine is in limphome mode, the cat gets RED hot and melts the cat,
but this is not a cause, it's a victim of above of RICH misfire.
http://www.fixkick.com/Cooling-engine/16...aths2w.JPG
power lost has many causes. (engine , not trans transmission slip.)
1: sure cat melted (vacuum test is most easy of all)
2: limphome tops list on vitara, sidekick/trackers. G16s. (gross power loss is a feature if this mode)
3: misfiring , caused by #2 or 4, or 5, 6 or 8 below.
4: bad spark or flooding .
5: too high fuel pressure (FPR stuck, no longer regulates, pressure gauge tests, see bad FPR here. http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/FPress-reg1.html
6: injectors leaking, or even clogged.
7: weak MAF or just dirty.
8: low compression, due to cam timing belt not changed at 60kmiles (100km)
TEST one was never done.?
the diagmode
insert the diagnostic jumper clip in the DLC connector under hood.,
key on engine flashes 12s does it
start engine ,still flash 12s?
your OBD1 car has flash codes, our 97 here in USA is OBD2, we invented OBD2. here.so.....
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/CEL.html#OBD1codes
i call it the paper clip tests.
this is always first. (after checking fuses)
cat tests (pasted off my cat terst page)
quote:
My Quick CatCon test , using a simple vacuum guage: ( cheap , fast and effective, and no burned fingers)
Warm up and idle engine.
Plug a Vacuum guage into any plenum vacuum port , do not create any leaks. (my Vac. at idle is 19 inches of Mercury 19 HG.) I use the EVAP port. Do not use the EGR port.
Race engine to about 2500 RPM, and record the vacuum. ( if vacuum is significantly lower at 2500 than idle Cat is bad [or exhaust blockage]).
Now slam the throttle shut fast, to idle. Observe Guage action.
The vacuum should instantly raise about 5 HG above #3 reading and then drop to Idle vacuum observed at #2. ( if not , suspect CAT blockage ,or more rarely muffler blockage)
Many say this is one of the most accurate tests for a CAT.
end quote.
if you have used a vacuum gauge before, you know what is normal. (experience)
about 20 inches of steady vacuum at idle, no bouncing allowed, idle rpm steady. (hot 800 rpm)
if you gun the throttle on a good engine, the vacuum drops fast very fast, but with a melted cat IT does, not drop fast, because it cant pump air much.
if you race the rpm now, with hand on throttle, gauge in hand, and then let the throttle (hand off) snap back, to stops, the RPMs fall fast and vacuum can hit 26 inches,
if not the Cat is clogged.
Vacuum will act sluggish and wrong, on melted cats.
but this assumes what?
engine is good !, timing belt not slipped, and compression over 150PSI (below 1000 feet altitude)
the Basics rules on engine are:
good engine. (compression ok, vacuum ok, egr main not stuck open, cat not melted killing the engines ability to pump air)
good spark (timing too)
good fueling, in that order.
and more
if ECU is in limphome, spark and fueling will be wrong, by design. (key word there is LIMP)
LIMP means reduced power, but car runs, (my custom , ECU just stops running, with fails, like this, so LIMP has value.)
(03-23-2016, 08:30 PM)SrgBog Wrote: My coolant hoses have no air pass between them ... so it seems that the ISC need to be fixed first... (use a piece of wire, and rod it out)
So I am going to put it off and try to clean it better this time. (this path blockage, kills the IAC too. they are in series that path)
Please keep in mind, that these parts must work , if not the ECU can go nuts and go to limphome mode, causing
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/LimpHome/failsafe.html
retarded spark advance
too rich mixtures
low power
RPM limits'
and idle controls shut down (see my failsafe page?)
About the low power issue - the problem may be the CAT converter , the cat back pressure is easy to check .
#5 find melted cat and so does vacuum test #2 below. page.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/cat-con-tests.html
... So I am going to check that issue aslo..
Will inform as soon as I will done.
Thanks again for all the help !
back to water flow dead, and why not to ignore this.
see my diagram.
see how i added the 3 missing parts to the suzuki drawing?
first see the start of flow, at the left red dot, under the thermostat housing below, the manifold
this most not be clogged first.
note carefully they water flows in a series path , see that?
and if 1 device (red objects) clogs. all 3 things there go dead.
THE KEY object there is IAC, if it goes dead, it sticks open
if it sticks open the ECU will go nuts, after all its not programmed to handle that gross failure.
The RPM races, is the first clue.
if it goes to limphome, the power is lost if not in limphome mode. then there are other failures.
never seen one of these cars with out, many failures. all ignored
now more, sure, if the engine is in limphome mode, the cat gets RED hot and melts the cat,
but this is not a cause, it's a victim of above of RICH misfire.
http://www.fixkick.com/Cooling-engine/16...aths2w.JPG
power lost has many causes. (engine , not trans transmission slip.)
1: sure cat melted (vacuum test is most easy of all)
2: limphome tops list on vitara, sidekick/trackers. G16s. (gross power loss is a feature if this mode)
3: misfiring , caused by #2 or 4, or 5, 6 or 8 below.
4: bad spark or flooding .
5: too high fuel pressure (FPR stuck, no longer regulates, pressure gauge tests, see bad FPR here. http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/FPress-reg1.html
6: injectors leaking, or even clogged.
7: weak MAF or just dirty.
8: low compression, due to cam timing belt not changed at 60kmiles (100km)
TEST one was never done.?
the diagmode
insert the diagnostic jumper clip in the DLC connector under hood.,
key on engine flashes 12s does it
start engine ,still flash 12s?
your OBD1 car has flash codes, our 97 here in USA is OBD2, we invented OBD2. here.so.....
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/CEL.html#OBD1codes
i call it the paper clip tests.
this is always first. (after checking fuses)
cat tests (pasted off my cat terst page)
quote:
My Quick CatCon test , using a simple vacuum guage: ( cheap , fast and effective, and no burned fingers)
Warm up and idle engine.
Plug a Vacuum guage into any plenum vacuum port , do not create any leaks. (my Vac. at idle is 19 inches of Mercury 19 HG.) I use the EVAP port. Do not use the EGR port.
Race engine to about 2500 RPM, and record the vacuum. ( if vacuum is significantly lower at 2500 than idle Cat is bad [or exhaust blockage]).
Now slam the throttle shut fast, to idle. Observe Guage action.
The vacuum should instantly raise about 5 HG above #3 reading and then drop to Idle vacuum observed at #2. ( if not , suspect CAT blockage ,or more rarely muffler blockage)
Many say this is one of the most accurate tests for a CAT.
end quote.
if you have used a vacuum gauge before, you know what is normal. (experience)
about 20 inches of steady vacuum at idle, no bouncing allowed, idle rpm steady. (hot 800 rpm)
if you gun the throttle on a good engine, the vacuum drops fast very fast, but with a melted cat IT does, not drop fast, because it cant pump air much.
if you race the rpm now, with hand on throttle, gauge in hand, and then let the throttle (hand off) snap back, to stops, the RPMs fall fast and vacuum can hit 26 inches,
if not the Cat is clogged.
Vacuum will act sluggish and wrong, on melted cats.
but this assumes what?
engine is good !, timing belt not slipped, and compression over 150PSI (below 1000 feet altitude)
the Basics rules on engine are:
good engine. (compression ok, vacuum ok, egr main not stuck open, cat not melted killing the engines ability to pump air)
good spark (timing too)
good fueling, in that order.
and more
if ECU is in limphome, spark and fueling will be wrong, by design. (key word there is LIMP)
LIMP means reduced power, but car runs, (my custom , ECU just stops running, with fails, like this, so LIMP has value.)
http://www.fixkick.com