(03-19-2016, 02:13 AM)Deadduck Wrote: Cold RPM 1400-1500rpm (good, normal, all IAC actions that) higher in Alaska,
hot RPM is 750-850 RPM 800 is ECU controlled, via servo software loops.
Outdoor airtemp between 20-27°c
Oil is penrite running in oil 15w40 (good oil no problems there)
Old block had a crack through bearing journal (mine too)so block rooted new block same crank all measured all gaps within 1 thou (using plasti gauge?)?
ok new block but you are running who's bearing shells, the old crank and matching original same shells.
No seal on bottom of pick up? Just a press fit into block can I seal at all I now have to drop diff and sump again to try and. Fix
not true at all,sorry
see this page 10
see seal #7. here. its not optional at all, i can imagine a more critical seal, sucking air.. will blow up a good engine. fast.
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/96-98%2016...motor1.pdf
i have all suzuki drawings, here.
best on engine rebuilds
is ask for engine parts drawings, like above, i put the up 10 years ago.
also no missing ferrel rings #11 page 8, head to block drawing. there are 2 ferrals. in the corners, we have huge posts with parts missing and effects, not one is extra..
or the timing belt drifts endlessly.
and
see critical dimensions here.
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...m-end.html
0.001" clearances is perfect. non better.
per spec, and truth
with that clearance and no excessive rod side play say .002", oil pressure will be tops
see page 21 for oil regulator
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/96-98%2016...motor1.pdf
my 16v photos are ok, only head and pistons, and ECU changed(wires). for 16v .
http://www.fixkick.com