shorts cause infininte current, so a fuse blows or you have fire lacking a fuse, the battery can even source 1000 amps, possible.
so its lots and lots of current there and why we have fuses on, cars, homes,plains and boats. all for that reason.
a rusty connection is on open circuit, and zero current flows, end of story.
for get the engine starting for now. that is more advanced fuctions, spark and fueling
do the head lights work always? this primitive system, and must work first.
see why?
this is not weird all old cars do this, all do,.. and from rust (all forms of corrosion, not just one)
why not use a voltmeter and go to the cause. fast.... that is why god made voltmeters, so humans can see electrons.
we cant , otherwise and is a safe simple instrument.
Even, Mr. Tesla had one. in 1901 , and he built the first A.C home power distribution systems. in USA.
he'd be hopeless with no meter. for sure/.
my example are not guesses.
you have bad main fuse fuse box, connnections, or bad grounds.
1 or the other. for sure.
with head lights dead.
the schematic is free. to see.
not sure now what car your fixing or what year.
but if no DLR, (canada daylight runnning light options)
here is how head lights work.
as you can see 2 fuse there need to blow to lose power to head lights, i bet they are ok
and you lost power to the mains.
this photo is on my power loss page. simple to fault, no more complex than a flashing (cept has fuses)
deleted spaghetti drawings
at fixkick dot com, type i search box , schematic.
but you found a bad ground.....
see DMM to 20vdc scale
set black test lead to minus battery lug. KEEP IT HERE! for ALL TESTS.
HL (head lights to on) (used as a natural load) key off. no need for a key with headlights, and makes testing 10x more easy, no?
connect red lead to battery + , 12.6vdc, less is discharged, or even a bad battery , (a very short lived product if ever the was one)
move red test lead to engine top metal (valve cover ,etc), 0v to 0.5v max. or grounds are bad. ( if this fails say so)
move red lead to body metal, scratch it clean to bare metal, same deal same cause if not 0v to 0.5v max. (same tell me)
no move red lead to battery mains box, on R. fender just in front of the battery ,just like you home these ARE MAINS.
see 12v there on every wire, if not,12vdc, the mains are blown (Fuse) or rusty just like my pages shows in graphic reality. are you in the SALT BELT? we are not and our cars run forever here, no rust. no rust related, electrics failing here. even on 1980s cars./
there are set of very simple tests... in a row.
takes all of 5min to do. with meter in hand.
for sure.
let me know what you see/.?
deleted spaghetti drawings
at fixkick dot com, type i search box , schematic.
if all mains are 12v
and the head lamps are dead, (given fact that , most else is dead)
then G200 is bad.
this is a dash board, body ground there,
and if the other battery to body grounds fail, the G200 is totally useless.
my bad ground page lists all grounds that must be good to run engine.
all of them.
starter ground to battery Net lug, not lose on any end. or rusty.
engine to body grounds. at least 3.
body ground behind the battery must be good.
and last, G200 (under dash)
i dont assume, i let me meter tell me the truth
only truth is the path to why its failing.
but inspections can see this. just looking at them, omg, rust , omg its loose, omg it burned to a crisp.
for sure.
once gandering fails, out come the meter,
so its lots and lots of current there and why we have fuses on, cars, homes,plains and boats. all for that reason.
a rusty connection is on open circuit, and zero current flows, end of story.
for get the engine starting for now. that is more advanced fuctions, spark and fueling
do the head lights work always? this primitive system, and must work first.
see why?
this is not weird all old cars do this, all do,.. and from rust (all forms of corrosion, not just one)
why not use a voltmeter and go to the cause. fast.... that is why god made voltmeters, so humans can see electrons.
we cant , otherwise and is a safe simple instrument.
Even, Mr. Tesla had one. in 1901 , and he built the first A.C home power distribution systems. in USA.
he'd be hopeless with no meter. for sure/.
my example are not guesses.
you have bad main fuse fuse box, connnections, or bad grounds.
1 or the other. for sure.
with head lights dead.
the schematic is free. to see.
not sure now what car your fixing or what year.
but if no DLR, (canada daylight runnning light options)
here is how head lights work.
as you can see 2 fuse there need to blow to lose power to head lights, i bet they are ok
and you lost power to the mains.
this photo is on my power loss page. simple to fault, no more complex than a flashing (cept has fuses)
deleted spaghetti drawings
at fixkick dot com, type i search box , schematic.
but you found a bad ground.....
see DMM to 20vdc scale
set black test lead to minus battery lug. KEEP IT HERE! for ALL TESTS.
HL (head lights to on) (used as a natural load) key off. no need for a key with headlights, and makes testing 10x more easy, no?
connect red lead to battery + , 12.6vdc, less is discharged, or even a bad battery , (a very short lived product if ever the was one)
move red test lead to engine top metal (valve cover ,etc), 0v to 0.5v max. or grounds are bad. ( if this fails say so)
move red lead to body metal, scratch it clean to bare metal, same deal same cause if not 0v to 0.5v max. (same tell me)
no move red lead to battery mains box, on R. fender just in front of the battery ,just like you home these ARE MAINS.
see 12v there on every wire, if not,12vdc, the mains are blown (Fuse) or rusty just like my pages shows in graphic reality. are you in the SALT BELT? we are not and our cars run forever here, no rust. no rust related, electrics failing here. even on 1980s cars./
there are set of very simple tests... in a row.
takes all of 5min to do. with meter in hand.
for sure.
let me know what you see/.?
(03-16-2016, 04:11 AM)Michtrackerproject Wrote: Ahh..
fender side fuse block,, didn't even think about that one,, But ,, weird issue is it was cranking over and firing fine,, engine started twice and then the electrical puked to what seems like a dead short then if I disconnect the terminal neg side the whole system resets till I try the key again then all power lost, no headlights no dash lights nothing I can see .. will test today for other states,, But .. there was a small whine and faint beep after power lost like Low voltage,, even with hot fully charged battery,,
So fuse block very possible,, and also grounds since someone else had been poking around the electrical.. Hate getting into a spaghetti dinner after the fact...thank you again,,
deleted spaghetti drawings
at fixkick dot com, type i search box , schematic.
if all mains are 12v
and the head lamps are dead, (given fact that , most else is dead)
then G200 is bad.
this is a dash board, body ground there,
and if the other battery to body grounds fail, the G200 is totally useless.
my bad ground page lists all grounds that must be good to run engine.
all of them.
starter ground to battery Net lug, not lose on any end. or rusty.
engine to body grounds. at least 3.
body ground behind the battery must be good.
and last, G200 (under dash)
i dont assume, i let me meter tell me the truth
only truth is the path to why its failing.
but inspections can see this. just looking at them, omg, rust , omg its loose, omg it burned to a crisp.
for sure.
once gandering fails, out come the meter,
http://www.fixkick.com