welcome back. !!
step one is the stall test.
see links below...
the stall test, is to push the diaphragm ring, of the egr main valve, at hot idle is best (its hot so be careful)
we use hand vacuum tool preventing burned fingers. (below is guy using a Mightvac™ tool... hand vacuum way. no hot fingers)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPO7B7yH43w
the engine almost stalls, rpm is near 400 rpm.
your egr main is new, so this test is super easy , its not jammed, now.
this is not your G16b engine, its the 16a 8v, and the main is not there, yours is behind the intake #4 runmer/
see my gen2 page, generation 2 sidekicks and tracker. 16valves, MPI G16B engines. early intake,.
the first section answers the stall test and the slide show, shows all parts related. see it?
http://www.fixkick.com/EGR-Gen2a.html
what is stall test, answser:
http://www.fixkick.com/EGR-Gen2a.html#STALL
what is bark test, answer
http://www.fixkick.com/EGR-Gen2a.html#BARK
the bark test has two forms.
the bottom tube of the EGR MOD, (larger than the side tubes)
must bark or do putt putt sounds, when removed on an idling engine, if NOT, the pathes are blocked.
my guess is the stall tests fails.
my 2nd guess, is the bark test 1 fails.
then we do bark 2 test. (note im going from simple easy to harder work) why do extra work, i say but other just clean it all and it works. your call that. huh?
now i remove the egr main 2x 6mm screws.
its off now. engine off
i then put cork here, (rubber stopper or what ever you want , wooden cone , or ?)
seen here (put a cork in hole large, RIGHT) (suck side)
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/EGR/egrports002.jpg
if that hole is full of carbon, then its hopeless.
if not cork it and start the engine
the other hole (left in photo above) barks real load at idle Putt Putt putt.. see? the bark test, if not that path is blocked, as most are.
on most these old cars all paths are blocked., zero service, the stall test is like a 50,000 mile test. every 50k, per FSM( not beating my fsm bible,sorry)
this ends tests, takes about 30min to do all that. and shows whats wrong.
if unlucky the vacuum side fails. most dont.
but if stall fails, that is 1st.
if the bark test 1 or 2 fails, that is for sure next. cause above. too.
if the stall test passes we then go to vacuum testing.
there are 3 pathes here.
exhaust.
vacuum
and ECU electrics.
this is the ring to push
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/EGR/egr-main2.jpg
see that metal ring, that is the stall ring,(my name)
see bark tube,this is bark tube test 1.
keep asking questions, its best. way.
photos up load easy, click gallery button above.
the Actuators.
and then add photos.
browse to photo and save,
then link it up here, or just tell me, its in actuators now.
last is the INTAKE manifold.
im sure yours is the quad port, but ive been fooled before (parts get swapped)
the new engine has what i call the side winder tube of sst stainless steel
the quad port no such part.
the CALIF engine when to mono port 1 year early., 1994? I have the VIN rules but , its not important only this tube matters. #50
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/EGR/92-95-EGR-16v.jpg
i bet you dont have #50 SST side winder tube (EGR)
and is the more difficult to clean. quad port.
cheers,
PS: all this must work or the NOX will fail. as your car proves.....w/ new cat.
if that is too much info at once
we can do this serially.
the stall tests is first.
push the ring
or suck the vacuum nipple on EGR main, with hand vac tool. of any make. hot engine. is best.
running.
what happens is Egr main opens 100% and flows, exhaust like and car driving at full speed up a hill, max EGR flow, and that is why it near stalls.(at idle)
step one is the stall test.
see links below...
the stall test, is to push the diaphragm ring, of the egr main valve, at hot idle is best (its hot so be careful)
we use hand vacuum tool preventing burned fingers. (below is guy using a Mightvac™ tool... hand vacuum way. no hot fingers)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPO7B7yH43w
the engine almost stalls, rpm is near 400 rpm.
your egr main is new, so this test is super easy , its not jammed, now.
this is not your G16b engine, its the 16a 8v, and the main is not there, yours is behind the intake #4 runmer/
see my gen2 page, generation 2 sidekicks and tracker. 16valves, MPI G16B engines. early intake,.
the first section answers the stall test and the slide show, shows all parts related. see it?
http://www.fixkick.com/EGR-Gen2a.html
what is stall test, answser:
http://www.fixkick.com/EGR-Gen2a.html#STALL
what is bark test, answer
http://www.fixkick.com/EGR-Gen2a.html#BARK
the bark test has two forms.
the bottom tube of the EGR MOD, (larger than the side tubes)
must bark or do putt putt sounds, when removed on an idling engine, if NOT, the pathes are blocked.
my guess is the stall tests fails.
my 2nd guess, is the bark test 1 fails.
then we do bark 2 test. (note im going from simple easy to harder work) why do extra work, i say but other just clean it all and it works. your call that. huh?
now i remove the egr main 2x 6mm screws.
its off now. engine off
i then put cork here, (rubber stopper or what ever you want , wooden cone , or ?)
seen here (put a cork in hole large, RIGHT) (suck side)
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/EGR/egrports002.jpg
if that hole is full of carbon, then its hopeless.
if not cork it and start the engine
the other hole (left in photo above) barks real load at idle Putt Putt putt.. see? the bark test, if not that path is blocked, as most are.
on most these old cars all paths are blocked., zero service, the stall test is like a 50,000 mile test. every 50k, per FSM( not beating my fsm bible,sorry)
this ends tests, takes about 30min to do all that. and shows whats wrong.
if unlucky the vacuum side fails. most dont.
but if stall fails, that is 1st.
if the bark test 1 or 2 fails, that is for sure next. cause above. too.
if the stall test passes we then go to vacuum testing.
there are 3 pathes here.
exhaust.
vacuum
and ECU electrics.
this is the ring to push
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/EGR/egr-main2.jpg
see that metal ring, that is the stall ring,(my name)
see bark tube,this is bark tube test 1.
keep asking questions, its best. way.
photos up load easy, click gallery button above.
the Actuators.
and then add photos.
browse to photo and save,
then link it up here, or just tell me, its in actuators now.
last is the INTAKE manifold.
im sure yours is the quad port, but ive been fooled before (parts get swapped)
the new engine has what i call the side winder tube of sst stainless steel
the quad port no such part.
the CALIF engine when to mono port 1 year early., 1994? I have the VIN rules but , its not important only this tube matters. #50
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/EGR/92-95-EGR-16v.jpg
i bet you dont have #50 SST side winder tube (EGR)
and is the more difficult to clean. quad port.
cheers,
PS: all this must work or the NOX will fail. as your car proves.....w/ new cat.
(03-10-2016, 01:44 PM)Lon Wrote: Thanks for the reply.
Not sure what you been by "BARK" test , will do EGR (and bark test if i can find out what it is) test Friday morning.
If I scan my smog papers how do I post them? SURE.
You asked if it is mono port or quad port , how do I tell ?
if that is too much info at once
we can do this serially.
the stall tests is first.
push the ring
or suck the vacuum nipple on EGR main, with hand vac tool. of any make. hot engine. is best.
running.
what happens is Egr main opens 100% and flows, exhaust like and car driving at full speed up a hill, max EGR flow, and that is why it near stalls.(at idle)
http://www.fixkick.com